-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Best rust solutions? Rustoleum, spray converter + paint?
- Thread starter EAdams
- Start date
- 5,259
- 3,972
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
RE: Best rust solutions? Rustoleum, spray converter + paint
I like the rust convetors. Eastwood makes a couple of nice ones. Some are phosphoric acid based and will leave a black phosphate coating. Those have worked well for me as they are thin and will work into seams. You just need to make sure you rinse real well and dry it out before primer and paint. Otherwise, it will keep working and can cause paint to fail. They also have rust converting paint which encapsulates the rust and then you can paint over it. I have read mixed reviews of POR-15. Some folks love it, many complain about it flaking, etc... after it has been on for a while.
I like the rust convetors. Eastwood makes a couple of nice ones. Some are phosphoric acid based and will leave a black phosphate coating. Those have worked well for me as they are thin and will work into seams. You just need to make sure you rinse real well and dry it out before primer and paint. Otherwise, it will keep working and can cause paint to fail. They also have rust converting paint which encapsulates the rust and then you can paint over it. I have read mixed reviews of POR-15. Some folks love it, many complain about it flaking, etc... after it has been on for a while.
Armada
New member
- 3,046
- 4
- 0
- Location
- Buick City, MI
RE: Best rust solutions? Rustoleum, spray converter + paint
I also use the same thing that Chris recommends, with good success. It is also phosphoric acid based. It's a liquid, brush it on. I buy it from an automotive paint supplier. It's called Rust-Mort, made by SEM. Good stuff. Wear goggles and gloves when applying, and rinse and dry well.
I also use the same thing that Chris recommends, with good success. It is also phosphoric acid based. It's a liquid, brush it on. I buy it from an automotive paint supplier. It's called Rust-Mort, made by SEM. Good stuff. Wear goggles and gloves when applying, and rinse and dry well.
Re: RE: Best rust solutions? Rustoleum, spray converter + p
What would you recommend for aprimer/paint (aerosol prefered because I need a better compressor setup)???
Do you brush off the surphace rust, wash off, then paint this on? How long do you let it sit before you wash it off, let it dry and then paint?Armada said:
What would you recommend for aprimer/paint (aerosol prefered because I need a better compressor setup)???
RE: Re: RE: Best rust solutions? Rustoleum, spray converter
I have used the spray can "turn it black" stuff with good success except I'm goin' thru cans like crazy. I just got some of this JASCO prep and primer. wipe, brush or spray ith on. I'm gonna try that to see how it works. You gotta primer afterwords and be sure to scotchbrite between phoso and primer and paint. I've been using rattle can primer as well and am in the process of buying a compressor capable of painting so I may switch to gun spraying primer. I bought CARC paint (the two part poly) so I expect to only phoso and primer rust areas and just sand below the oxidized paint and apply the newer CARC over the older CARC.
I have used the spray can "turn it black" stuff with good success except I'm goin' thru cans like crazy. I just got some of this JASCO prep and primer. wipe, brush or spray ith on. I'm gonna try that to see how it works. You gotta primer afterwords and be sure to scotchbrite between phoso and primer and paint. I've been using rattle can primer as well and am in the process of buying a compressor capable of painting so I may switch to gun spraying primer. I bought CARC paint (the two part poly) so I expect to only phoso and primer rust areas and just sand below the oxidized paint and apply the newer CARC over the older CARC.
Armada
New member
- 3,046
- 4
- 0
- Location
- Buick City, MI
It depends on how bad of a rust spot you are working on, but scrape all the loose paint and rust off, wire brush it. Then go over the rust with an electric palm sander with some 60 grit, that will even take more of the rust off. Vacuumm then blow off the spot with air pressure (depending on where the rust spot is). Liberally brush on the liquid. Work it into the rusty area. I will pour some in a plastic bowl and use a paint brush. You will see it start to 'work'. It will bubble. Let it set.
You can remove it when it dries. That will depend on temp, humidity, etc, but 1-2 hours avarage. I've let it work over night before. It will dry on the rusted area, but will not dry on clean metal or painted surface. That's ok. Use warm water and a brush and wash it off. It will have a milky color kinda, when mixed with the water. Rinse it clean. Wipe it with a clean dry rag, and use the air hose to get the water out of the rust pits, cracks and seams. The rusted spots should now be colored black. You may want to repeat the process again if it's real rusty. It will not harm a thing, in fact I usually do a second coat. Do not touch the metal with bare hands before painting, it will leave oils and salts from your skin on it. Use a good primer. Zinc based is good. Rustoleum will work ok. Then paint.
It works great on rusty nuts and bolts and small parts too. Prep the parts, (wire wheel bolts, etc.), pour some in a bowl, put the parts in and let them soak for a while. Rinse, dry, and paint. Use anti-sieze on bolts that are exposed to the elements. They will never freeze up from rust again.
And if it's a hole you're fixing, don't forget to treat, and seal the back side of it also.
Good luck.
You can remove it when it dries. That will depend on temp, humidity, etc, but 1-2 hours avarage. I've let it work over night before. It will dry on the rusted area, but will not dry on clean metal or painted surface. That's ok. Use warm water and a brush and wash it off. It will have a milky color kinda, when mixed with the water. Rinse it clean. Wipe it with a clean dry rag, and use the air hose to get the water out of the rust pits, cracks and seams. The rusted spots should now be colored black. You may want to repeat the process again if it's real rusty. It will not harm a thing, in fact I usually do a second coat. Do not touch the metal with bare hands before painting, it will leave oils and salts from your skin on it. Use a good primer. Zinc based is good. Rustoleum will work ok. Then paint.
It works great on rusty nuts and bolts and small parts too. Prep the parts, (wire wheel bolts, etc.), pour some in a bowl, put the parts in and let them soak for a while. Rinse, dry, and paint. Use anti-sieze on bolts that are exposed to the elements. They will never freeze up from rust again.
And if it's a hole you're fixing, don't forget to treat, and seal the back side of it also.
Good luck.
EZFEED
New member
- 880
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Lafayette, LA
POR-15 hands down!!!!!!!!!!! 
http://www.por15.com/
I have used this for many years and every one of my antique and classic vehuicles are fully protected frame and all with this. It's the best stuff for undercarriages and springs because it dries pliable and you can still get every bit of articulation from your springs with no worries of compromise. You can brush on in non visible areas and spray on in visible areas. After it dries tacky shoot one coat of primer over it because paint will not stick to cured POR-15 without some prep.
If you are one who doesn't like to follow directions then walk on by because you must apply it in the conditions stated. Moisture makes this stuff dry quick so it needs to be applied to a perfectly dried surface. I use a heat gun to do this so that any residual moisture remaining will be sucked out by this stuff.
One of the cool things you can do with this is use it in place of resin on fiberglass repairs.
http://www.por15.com/
I have used this for many years and every one of my antique and classic vehuicles are fully protected frame and all with this. It's the best stuff for undercarriages and springs because it dries pliable and you can still get every bit of articulation from your springs with no worries of compromise. You can brush on in non visible areas and spray on in visible areas. After it dries tacky shoot one coat of primer over it because paint will not stick to cured POR-15 without some prep.
If you are one who doesn't like to follow directions then walk on by because you must apply it in the conditions stated. Moisture makes this stuff dry quick so it needs to be applied to a perfectly dried surface. I use a heat gun to do this so that any residual moisture remaining will be sucked out by this stuff.
One of the cool things you can do with this is use it in place of resin on fiberglass repairs.
- 3,585
- 7
- 0
- Location
- Parkville, MD
This is the best stuff I have found it is silver so it covers well and is easy to topcoat.
http://www.rustbullet.com/index.htm
It is expensive but it works great
http://www.rustbullet.com/index.htm
It is expensive but it works great
rmgill
Active member
- 2,479
- 14
- 38
- Location
- Decatur, Ga
personally, I prefer to blast down to bare metal, prime and paint.
98hd
Member
- 552
- 1
- 18
- Location
- Reedsburg, WI / Trenary, MI
I've used eastwoods rust encapsulator, it sucks. Now using zerorust, and so far it is great.
No.2Diesel
New member
- 1,264
- 11
- 0
- Location
- Huntington, NY
The best paint ever is MAGNET PAINT'S CHASSIS SAVER. It comes in Gloss Black, Satin Black, or Aluminum. It will turn to charcoal gray without a UV protection coat. Yes you can topcoat it. Its $80 a gallon and is a million times better than POR-15. Go on their site and request a sample in the mail. Its made locally by me and I go there all the time. Their other products are great too. You buy directly from them at the factory, no mark ups.
I've painted my boat trailers with it. Its great. All the local marinas use it to paint their yacht hauling trailers which are submerged for long periods all the time. I've never witnessed rust stains on trailers painted with the stuff. Check it out.
I've painted my boat trailers with it. Its great. All the local marinas use it to paint their yacht hauling trailers which are submerged for long periods all the time. I've never witnessed rust stains on trailers painted with the stuff. Check it out.
Ugg013
New member
- 231
- 0
- 0
- Location
- North of Chicago, IL.
A Touchy Subject
In the past, I had an in with a friend at Rustoleum. I would get theur rust convertor by the case for the BEST price you could imagine. That stuff worked great on my Jeep.
With some of the convertors/encapsulators, you just apply with no prep at all. It turns into a black finish, which is used as a primer. Since I no longer have that in at Rustoleum, I started looking around. There is a product called 1 Step Rust Killer, which seems to be the same, but at only $40.00 a galllon.
In the past, I used to use an acid base prep soultion. VERY DANGEROUS! These days I'm looking into Greener ways of doing things. The 1 Step is very green friendly and totally safe. So far, after 9 months outside, it still seems to be holding.
Now the POR 15 is good stuff IF, like stated before, you follow instructions and have the perfect shop enviorment for it, not while working outside in the weather. A 2 stage expoxy based paint is a good protection for vehicles.
Good Luck
Ugg
In the past, I had an in with a friend at Rustoleum. I would get theur rust convertor by the case for the BEST price you could imagine. That stuff worked great on my Jeep.
With some of the convertors/encapsulators, you just apply with no prep at all. It turns into a black finish, which is used as a primer. Since I no longer have that in at Rustoleum, I started looking around. There is a product called 1 Step Rust Killer, which seems to be the same, but at only $40.00 a galllon.
In the past, I used to use an acid base prep soultion. VERY DANGEROUS! These days I'm looking into Greener ways of doing things. The 1 Step is very green friendly and totally safe. So far, after 9 months outside, it still seems to be holding.
Now the POR 15 is good stuff IF, like stated before, you follow instructions and have the perfect shop enviorment for it, not while working outside in the weather. A 2 stage expoxy based paint is a good protection for vehicles.
Good Luck
Ugg
Re: RE: Best rust solutions? Rustoleum, spray converter + p
POR-15 wont flake if applied correctly. It is meant to be used on really rusty parts. Minor surface rust and parts that are almost clean the paint will not adhere properly. I used por-15 on a few of my old hot rods and it held up well. No flaking or chipping. The stuff is like a paint on bondo just paint over the rust and forget about it.
steelsoldiers said:
POR-15 wont flake if applied correctly. It is meant to be used on really rusty parts. Minor surface rust and parts that are almost clean the paint will not adhere properly. I used por-15 on a few of my old hot rods and it held up well. No flaking or chipping. The stuff is like a paint on bondo just paint over the rust and forget about it.
- 4,758
- 1,148
- 113
- Location
- Gaithersburg, MD
RE: Re: RE: Best rust solutions? Rustoleum, spray converter
I like the POR15, too. I had a few spots of surface rust on one of my M105A2s. I scraped the metal, painted the POR15 over it, and, then, spray canned over that. In over three years, I have not even had a small flake of rust show through. I have also used the spray-on rust converter with some success, too. I would still use that stuff, but, the POR15 is better IMHO. However, be careful. If that stuff dries on your hands, you will not get it off no matter how hard you scrub until it wears off. My suggestion: wear gloves when applying POR15.
I like the POR15, too. I had a few spots of surface rust on one of my M105A2s. I scraped the metal, painted the POR15 over it, and, then, spray canned over that. In over three years, I have not even had a small flake of rust show through. I have also used the spray-on rust converter with some success, too. I would still use that stuff, but, the POR15 is better IMHO. However, be careful. If that stuff dries on your hands, you will not get it off no matter how hard you scrub until it wears off. My suggestion: wear gloves when applying POR15.