Best sealant/glue for ducting

[Mogman]

I have had hell with ducting for my project, I purchase this duct a couple years ago and got home before taking it out of the box and seeing the upper and lower section had completely separated, I bought one last week only to get home before noticing it was missing a piece making it unusable, I think I see a pattern here
Anyway it looks like the duct is made out of ABS plastic so I ask the great collective here on suggestions on the best sealant/bonding to use on this.
It would be MUCH easier to apply if it came in a caulking type tube as there is about 12 feet of bead to lay.
I will also rough up the surface which appears to be the failing point of the original bonding material.

 

[Dieselmeister]

If it is a close fitting joint you might be able to use ABS pipe glue. I have used that on ABS ducting, and it worked great. For larger gaps I have used JB weld Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive, and Permatex Plastic Welder. If you want a dual syringe with a gun and mixing nozzle, you can get those from McMaster Carr, but expensive.

 

[Mogman]

If it is a close fitting joint you might be able to use ABS pipe glue. I have used that on ABS ducting, and it worked great. For larger gaps I have used JB weld Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive, and Permatex Plastic Welder. If you want a dual syringe with a gun and mixing nozzle, you can get those from McMaster Carr, but expensive.

I actually have the gun and mixing tips that I use to dispense potting material.

 

[87cr250r]

Epoxies bond well to ABS. I would consider using some fiberglass tape to fill the gap and using an epoxy resin such as West System, available at your local boat hardware store.

If you can close the seam use an adhesive polyurethane sealant. 3M 5200 is a favorite but not UV resistant. Your local auto body store should carry body seam sealer and panel bonding adhesives which are polyurethane and UV stabilized.

 

[Coug]

If it's something you might possibly need to remove at some point in the future, epoxy is a bit overkill

I like using DAP Ultraclear or Lexel clear sealant on things. Great, flexible bond, but can be completely removed later if needed (unlike RTV)

EDIT: it was silicone I was thinking of when I said RTV. Once silicone is used, you have to mechanically remove it by removing the top surface of whatever it was applied to.

 

[87cr250r]

Avoid silicones as they'll make it impossible for the correct bond to be made after the silicone fails.

 

[AAVP7]

Acetone is a great solvent for ABS. Only problem is that it evaporates so quickly that it is sometimes difficult to apply.

I´ve made myself a "slurry" of ABS chunks dissolved in acteone, so this slurry could be applied with a brush. Great for glueing larger ABS parts, and after the acetone evaporates, the ABS is cold-welded.
Just do this outdoors or in a well ventilated place, however.

 

[gringeltaube]

Avoid silicones as they'll make it impossible for the correct bond to be made after the silicone fails.

Also, a bead of PU adhesive sealant is paintable; silicone based products are not....