Best way to achieve CARC-like texture?

[trvctor]

Hi all. Wanted to ask what you would recommend as the best way to achieve the rough texture that CARC has without actually spraying the real stuff.

I was about to buy the current-spec type 9 single stage waterborne CARC from Sherwin but cancelled after the primer+catalyst and topcoat would have come to around $300.

I read that many people recommend Behr as a solid option for an accurate 383 CARC alternative but the color seemed the slightest bit too dark(almost beginning to lean toward forest green, but still passable) in my opinion. I found Sherwin will actually be able to do the same thing using the FS code 34094 and their sample was just a smidge lighter and looks more accurate in my opinion.

In my mind it seems that getting a flat and matte Raptor Liner made up in 383 green may be a solid option considering the affordability and slight texture of the coating PLUS it's also polyurethane which I feel makes it a good contender for a CARC alternative, as CARC is polyurethane-based and the raptor liner could provide similar properties to CARC in terms of resistance to solvents spilling on the finish. They currently don't provide this color but I'm hoping after I get it ordered it might save in their system and make it easy for them to make subsequent batches.

Has anyone else been able to achieve that roughness of the CARC paint with regular paint? Would love to hear yalls experience. Thanks!

 

[TomTime]

Try in here. That has been addresses many times in the past.

Paint and Bodywork

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www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[trvctor]

Try in here. That’s has been addresses many times in the past.

Paint and Bodywork

--

www.steelsoldiers.com

Well sir, if you insist. I'm going to post what I found in here for future folks because I had to look through all 10 pages worth of threads(searched "texture") and shit was tedious.

One of the hazards of surfing Craigslist ad's is you just might find something you don't need but you buy it anyway…
So I run across an Airforce NF-2 light tower (Light All) unit advertised on CL. After looking at the pictures in the ad I notice the enclosure appears well built (Mil Spec) and is fairly compact, it is on a steerable trailer with sturdy leaf spring suspension and has dual wide access doors on both sides plus a door on one end for panel access and even has a parking brake. These features spawn an idea…I wonder if my recently acquired MEP-002a would fit inside one of these? Living where it rains a LOT during the winter I like my equipment covered as well as mobile on the property for the added utility factor. So I asked the seller to take some interior measurements and what do you know... A MEP-002a “should fit” inside with a few inches to spare.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-002a-transplant-into-nf-2.144001/
So I purchase the NF-2 unit and to my surprise I found out that everything works - the gasoline fed Onan CCK 2 cylinder starts up and purrs like a kitten, the elevator platform raises and lowers and the big reflector housed mercury lights all light up VERY brightly. I can imagine one of these units stationed on a remote airfield shining brightly into the cargo hold of an aircraft and whatever else they were used for. I really hated to cannibalize a working unit but had no need for a light unit per se and planned on selling the included Onan CCK 2kw gen set to cover some of the project costs.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-002a-transplant-into-nf-2.144001/
I got to work and removed the outer enclosure skin as one piece by unbolting all 100 or so rusty skirt bolts (thank god for air ratchets!) that attached the enclosure’s skin to the trailer’s bottom deck area. With all the doors open I then used my tractor forks to gently lift it off the lower frame as one unit. I then pulled the genset, then ground off several no longer needed fittings in the bed area, removed wiring harnesses then removed the NF2 control panel. While I had everything off the trailer bed I decided to spray on a bed liner in the bed deck to better rust proof and sound deaden it a bit. I used the “U-POL Raptor” bed liner kit and man did it turn out nice! Very easy to spray on with great texture. Once the bed liner cured I used my tractor and hoisted the MEP-002a gently above the bed and lowered it onto (2) 3/4" thick carefully located horse stall-mat runners placed between the deck and skid frame to further dampen any vibrations. The hard part was figuring out exactly where to place the genset before drilling and attaching it to the bed. I decided to place it 8" from the end panel access door to give me adequate working room to reach inside to access the accessory outlets, circuit breaker and throttle control knob easily (the NF-2 panel door is a vertical rectangle whereas the MEP control panel is a horizontal layout). I also needed to leave enough room in the opposite end of trailer to install my batteries on the trailer's frame as I used the MEP-002a's battery skid space to retrofit a larger MEP-003a fuel tank (more fuel capacity is a good thing!). I needed to leave room as well for the NF-2’s built in fuel tank attached to one end of the enclosure so I could use it as an auxiliary fuel tank.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-002a-transplant-into-nf-2.144001/
Anyway, it all fit quite nicely however by adding in the rubber mat runners it raised the MEP up and the control panel box on the right side only clears one side of the sloped structure by about a ½”, talk about cutting it close! I still need to paint the exterior…more Rapco CARC 283 Green is on the way! In the meantime, here are some pictures of the project thus far:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-002a-transplant-into-nf-2.144001/
Before:
View attachment 578662 View attachment 578663
After:
View attachment 578672 View attachment 578674View attachment 578675View attachment 578676View attachment 578678View attachment 578679

I used a wagner house sprayer... I added some of the concrete floor traction grains to it for texture. turned out great! rub your skin right off. I love it!

Those are darn good welds... I am always impressed by how good some people can fabricate, there is real genius in your end product. I saw you mention CARC a couple of times. Unless you want this really original paint, use the Behr stuff. Cheaper, covers nice and can be sprayed, although I prefer a small roller to match texture. Goes right over the CARC easily too. No need to sand, not that you want those stuff airborne either. The paint codes are all in the paint forum section. The truck is coming along nice.

I still think a custom matched Raptor Liner could be a great affordable alternative to CARC and while it may not be as cheap as Behr latex it may surely be a cost-effective and practical alternative to CARC due to it being cheaper and also a polyurethane which inherently has a resistance to certain solvents. I will keep the thread updated on what comes of this in case anyone plans on doing the same.

 

[trvctor]

Crud. So it turns out a gallon kit for custom tint RAPTOR will be about $269...not that much cheaper than authentic Sherwin CARC which I was quoted around "not much more than $300" for (1 gallon of the topcoat + hardener and catalyst) for.https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Coat-Camouflage-Spray-Applicator/dp/B07JPC26F9/

I didn't think it would come to this but I think Behr is gonna be the way to go. For how accurate the color is, how much of a bargain it is, and the fact that the new Dynasty line is an improved and more durable version of Marquee and only $7 extra dollars. Dynasty has additives to make it UV resistant(guaranteed for 10 years) and to make more scratch resistance than Marquee.