best way to level 1986 m1009

[ElvisArronPresley]

I have tried to search for past couple of days and can't find what I'm looking for. I am sure it is my fault and apologize in advance if i am missing something simple, so here goes. 1986 m1009, and for some reason the passengers side is almost 2 inches lower than the drivers. I have replaced all leaf springs (twice) and replaced shocks with new coil overs and still looks exactly the same. All it did was stop the front pass. side tire from scraping when I hit a bump or something in the road, am running 33x12.50x15 goodyear duratracs. It is my DD and i never take it off road except for a 40yard level gravel driveway to the garage. My question is what is the easiest / best fix for correcting my problem? I really don't want to put a lift kit or anything like that on it cause i don't like the way they feel and as i said before , i will never use it. I really don't want to leave it like it is cause it looks weird and feels off , especially when making a left turn. Is a leveling kit something i should look into or is that not relevant to my issue? I don't really know what to try next.

Once more , i apologize if have not followed procedure and am wasting the boards time or anything like that. I think i have provided all relevant info, but will be happy to post anything else i have missed, i just appreciate any help at all.

thank you in advance.

Brooks

 

[Skinny]

Did you replace with new springs or used?

You may want to take some measurements to see if the frame or body is lower on that side. You may have body mount issues if the springs are OK. Again, compare dimensions from one side to the next to see where the sag is occurring.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I would start with measuring the gap between the spring and the frame on each 4 corners. I had a burb that sat like that and I ended up using a zero rate type block to fix it. There were no know issues with running that single block and it was there for nearly 100,000 miles.

 

[cucvrus]

True Story. I have had several of the M1009's that had this issue. IMHO I had this happen to me at Rausch Creek a few years back. Because the spare tire is mounted on that right rear corner and the other things that get jammed in behind the spare tire the jack and tools and in my case a few chains in a duffle bag, slave cables and what have you. I was out wheeling and I wheel hard every time I go wheeling. When I got back to base camp after a day of rough wheeling and getting towed around by a 5 ton in my Crown of Thorns M1009. I noticed that the rear gate would not open. This M1009 had some rust issues in the past on the back threshold and I had replaced the rear threshold with formed steel channel and 12 gauge with gussets and new bolts and all. But under the stress of wheeling and the weight of the spare tire the other stuff combined with the weight of the fiberglass roof pushing down on that corner. The threshold had tweaked and bent a bit. These trucks are not as tough as they once were. The fix was to un-bolt the striker on the right side and get the gate open. I closed it and got home with it. I put it on a friends frame machine and he jacked and pulled the M1009 around for a few hours. When it was done everything worked better. The down side is the truck is NOT as strong as it was 20 years ago. And short of replacing every weld and stressed piece of structural steel on the body and frame it never will be again. I have brand new springs and new shocks good tires and basically what the body man told me it was like bending a piece of steel angle the first time it was very hard to bend. When you straighten it out it will be fine and straight again. But each time it will bend easier and easier. Who knows what abuse these CUCV's have seen. I do not worry about it and it is true that they are 30+ years old. But short of spending $400. on a frame machine I am not sure you will solve anything. Just open up weak areas that will bend again easier next time. I have areas on my frame that are dented and bent. It drives and runs fine and other then cosmetic it hurts nothing. The 4 wheels are in alignment and going down the road straight. Many things on 4 X 4 vehicles have changed since these CUCV's hit the pavement and dirt. That is my spin. Yours may differ and that is fine. Have a great day and don't sweat the small stuff. It is not new anymore. And short of a frame off and exact frame measurements. It is what it is. Drive it. My Crown of Thorns M1009 was picked up with one fork in the right front wheel area to move it around at one time before I bought it. I was tweaked so hard the right side frame /axle bumper was into the differential carrier and the starter was broken off the engine. The oil pan and frame still bare the scars. It has not effected the truck in 17 years of ownership. I tell people it is kneeing to the west to pay homage to Flint Michigan it's birth place.

 

[reaper556]

Are you measuring from the ground to the bottom of your wheel well openings or have you measured from the ground to the bottom of your frame in the front on each side? I have a Bronco that is doing the lean and it is as Skinny said a bad/collapsed body mount all the way in the front near the core support. If your frame measurements are off then it will be like Rick said, frame damage most likely.

 

[Barrman]

Check your front spring rear upper shackle hanger bushings. RED had that lean, a sometimes clunking feel in the steering wheel when turning the wheel sitting still like in a parking lot and a sometimes vibration at 65-68 mph. Replacing those really worn bushings solved most of the lean, the clunk is gone and got rid of the vibration.

 

[cucvrus]

Are you referring to these? I have been preaching that for years. If you have any of the OEM bushings anywhere they are shot. I don't care how many miles are on it. Rubber or urethane the choice is yours. But replace them and see a world of difference. Even Terminus M1009 has new bushings and it never sees the road.

 

[ElvisArronPresley]

all new stuff both times. can body mounts be replaced? please excuse ignorance, just been measuring from fender to top of tire. will try as you say and compare. thank you for help.

brooks

 

[ElvisArronPresley]

so one of the urethane kits from LMC i guess would be the best ? thanks for help, much appreciated.

brooks

 

[ElvisArronPresley]

i do have the clunking / noise feel in the steering wheel, but haven't noticed the vibration. i guess replacing all the bushings will be next project. thank you for the reply.

brooks

 

[73m819]

best way to level 1986 m1009 is to run over it with a 8x8.

 

[Recovry4x4]

best way to level 1986 m1009 is to run over it with a 8x8.

Never catch it.

 

[cucvrus]

i do have the clunking / noise feel in the steering wheel, but haven't noticed the vibration. i guess replacing all the bushings will be next project. thank you for the reply.

brooks

When you start get a complete body and spring bushing kit from Energy Suspension. You should have a torch to do this job. And wear old clothes. You will get filthy. The body mounts are going to be the worst. Soak everything you can with PB blaster or something good that breaks rust. Good Luck. Use an impact lightly and go back and forth many times before you break the nuts loose in the body. Keep spraying the rust penetrates. I have done a few kits and broke many body nuts loose. The 2" hole saw is your friend to gain access to the nut and heat it. Welder fixes the hole like new. Do not rush. You will be glad and happy with the results.

 

[rustystud]

When you start get a complete body and spring bushing kit from Energy Suspension. You should have a torch to do this job. And wear old clothes. You will get filthy. The body mounts are going to be the worst. Soak everything you can with PB blaster or something good that breaks rust. Good Luck. Use an impact lightly and go back and forth many times before you break the nuts loose in the body. Keep spraying the rust penetrates. I have done a few kits and broke many body nuts loose. The 2" hole saw is your friend to gain access to the nut and heat it. Welder fixes the hole like new. Do not rush. You will be glad and happy with the results.

That's what I just finished this summer. Last year I replaced all the cab mounts and this year all the spring bushings. Your right about any OEM bushing being bad. My truck has 50,000 original miles on it but "every" bushing on it was SHOT Rubber will not last more then 20 years. I don't care who makes it. I went with the Poly bushings and love the results. Your also right about the frames becoming weaker due to age and stress. On our busses they have a road life of 15 years. We get an average of 20 years out of them but we are constantly repairing and welding on gussets to the frames. Until they come out with "forever metal" that will just be the nature of the beast. Metal fatigues. As does all rubber components, that's also including wiring. When people question me on this I point them to semi-truck trailers. New trailers have this big bow upwards in the middle. After a few years of use they are straight, then later they are bowed down. That's metal fatigue. That's also life. When I was young and in the Marines I used to be able to carry a 80 Ibs backpack up and down hills for miles. Now I find it difficult to carry in the groceries ! My M1028 feels the same way ! Though it's in better shape then I am !

 

[ElvisArronPresley]

i may just take it to the 4wheel shop and have the smallest suspension lift put on it. have everything you can possibly replace, replaced. i know it will be higher $, but i really like driving it and sounds like i need it anyway. This , plus i was gonna add AC , so should be an eventful winter.

 

[cucvrus]

It will just be the height of the suspension lift and still have the same lean only a little higher. Take it to a frame and alignment shop and have it properly diagnosed. You could be wasting money on everything and it has a simple fix. Frame alignment can do wonders. That thing could have been chained down by King Kong on a rail car one time and has it twisted and bent. Do as you wish. I am only trying to help. I could have been air dropped and hit hard on one corner. Anything is possible with a CUCV or any military/fleet vehicle.

 

[4x4 Forever]

Try the frame alignment first. Some shops charge by the hour or inspection, I have been lucky to get the inspection for free and pay if they fix any problem they find.

 

[Skinny]

I would say lets just pump the brakes here and take a couple of quick measurements with a tape before we start doing frame straightening or lift kit installations. I feel IMO all of that is not good advice since no one has established an actual reason for the lean yet. Some pictures in key areas would probably point out the issue if you posted them up.

 

[cucvrus]

Try the frame alignment first. Some shops charge by the hour or inspection, I have been lucky to get the inspection for free and pay if they fix any problem they find.

Take it to a frame and alignment shop and have it properly diagnosed. You could be wasting money on everything and it has a simple fix

I think we all got that covered here. Pictures of a leaning truck? Well I guess so. But not sure what that would tell us. Lets try and see what the pictures can tell us that a frame and alignment shop can not by looking at the truck right up front on their lot.

 

[ElvisArronPresley]

ill put some pics up as soon as i can. won't cost anything, why not?. thanks for help. wish i knew more about what i was looking at to give you all better info.