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Better Lug nuts for super singles

Hammer

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Winlock, WA
Ok, so instead of running the regular nut from the front, or cutting down the thimble from the stock rears. How about using these lugnuts for the double layer super singles.
5995L and 5595R (also listed as 599501 and 599502) ?
Alcoa makes these lug nuts for running rims on our lug centered wheels.
Alcoa Wheels North America: Products: Accessories: Heavy Duty Trucks - Wheel Cap Nuts

They would seem to locate the rim like the thimble did, and still give you enough thread engagement to be safe.
 

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Ferroequinologist

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They look good, only way to find out is order one or some and try them out!

I might get some to use on the fronts
 
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Hammer

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I plan on grabbing a couple to see how much thread engagement there is, etc. Need to find a local truck shop that will have them in stock.
Figured it wouldn't hurt to ask if anyone had tried them.
Search didn't show these part numbers coming up anywhere on the site, even google search. So I thought it safe to start a new post ;)
 

Hammer

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Thanks Gimp. Been too busy to post much lately. Just surf a little when I can.

Ok, so I picked up a couple of these today while I was out.
First impression is that they should work GREAT!
Now, to find some time to pull a wheel off, take off the thimble, and put it back on and try one of these. I got two, one to try on the front, and one for a rear tire. Shouldn't be any different, but I got two to test just in case.

Btw, the local truck shop only had 18 of them, and all those were right hand thread. They cost me $4.28 EACH! I was expecting more of the normal $2 something each.
At that cost, it would be $256.80, plus tax, for a full set. Assuming the left hand thread would be the same cost.
The part number I got was E-5995R. Euclid for the mfg.
He also said that it would also show up as R005995R.
 

Hammer

Well-known member
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Winlock, WA
Ok, here is a list of part numbers to cross over.

Alcoa 5995R/L (or 599501/599502)
Batco 13-3054R/L
BWP M-3208/9
GLP-2103/4
Leland W-506/7
Meritor R005995R/L
 
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Hammer

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Winlock, WA
Btw, it looks like carquest caries, or can order the BWP.
Need to check the other ones out to find a place that can get them for cheaper.
 

Hammer

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Winlock, WA
SUCCESS!!!!!
These things are about as perfect as we can get!
The snout on this extends 'almost' all the way through the double layers of the rim.
I only took on thimble off, so the rim (rear rim) still has the rim slightly offset from the drum because of the shoulders on the thimbles. But even with that, the threads stud protrude past the last threads on the nut!
Note, the threads on the nut are a little recessed, so they don't come all the way to the outer face of the nut.

Still, these things are perfect for us! Well, if they were not zinc coated, they might be a little better ;)

Pictures to come later.
 

Hammer

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Winlock, WA
It just seems obvious that SOMETHING should be out there for what we need. Just seems odd that no one has found these, or at least brought them up.

Well, maybe someone has, but I never read about them on SS.

Now to just find a good reliable source for them. Most online places I have found them being listed for a bit more then I paid. So no news on a cheaper source yet.
 

Beerslayer

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Interesting idea. I have used them when I have a broken stud and don't want to pull the drum to replace it. Never thought they would work as a regular lug nut on a steel wheel.

Photos?
 

Hoefler

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White Bear Lake,MN
I singled out my five ton and ran into the stud issue. I solved it by making plates of the same thickness as the wheel. I mounted the wheel just like mounting the inner-then put the back up plates on and then nut. The back up plate acts like the second wheel.
 

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Hoefler

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Simple laser cut and hand countersink in carbon steel plate that is the same thickness as wheel. I dont recall how much they where to make-it was probably cheap.
Pete
 

Hammer

Well-known member
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Location
Winlock, WA
Maybe, but just how much thread engagement are you getting from those thimbles?
And with using the thimble like that, you could have just ran the thimble and skipped the plate. Your plate adds strength for the thimble, but doesn't solve the main issue that with the double layer rims, you don't have enough thread engagement.
 

Hoefler

Active member
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White Bear Lake,MN
The wheel is assembled just as if there are two wheels-just like factory. Just like a typical rear wheel install, the wheel is installed. Then the thimble screws on to stud and is thightened down. Then I install the back up plate-it basically simulates the second wheel. I then use the lug nut to secure the back up plate. The assembly works just as sotck and has no difference in thread engagement.
I didnt like the idea of just having the thible hold the wheel to hub.
Pete
 
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