Bidding on a truck that won't start even with a jump.

[Recovry4x4]

Here's a great story:

Have a friend who bought a deuce from GL. Wouldn't start, checked the plunger in the IP, it was stuck, hit the button and fired right off.

And that's when I heard the god awful sound, like a dozen claw hammers in a dryer. Sounded a lot like a CUCV.

Shattered cylinder liner in #4. We put a crate engine in it because this one was done.

I'm just sayin'.



I realize no one wants to hear this, but unless you previewed it and heard it run............................ you should be bidding as if it's scrap or a parts truck.

Horribly offended here. Sounded a lot like a CUCV. Gheesh!

 

[porkysplace]

Horribly offended here. Sounded a lot like a CUCV. Gheesh!

Sounds like Clinto has been hanging out with Ron.

 

[Tow4]

I don't bid on vehicles that I don't think are operational, it's not worth the hassle to me. If it was close by, I might feel different. I've previewed trucks but never ended up with one of those. All the trucks I have were bought based on the description, pictures and video.

If you can't preview, a video where you see it running and moving is good. Also look closely at the pictures for condition indications. Are the gauges working, amp meter showing in the green, ABS light off, air pressure up, etc. Keep in mind that sometimes pictures get mixed up so look closely to make sure it's the right truck.

I've bought 5 trucks from GL and only towed one home and I had planned to in that case. With that said, I bought the trucks for what I thought was a good price. Since the tow bills are huge with large trucks, I was ready to walk away if I found some major issue at pickup. Sometimes you have to be ready to cut your losses (pay the default fee), rather than throw good money after bad. You just have to figure out what is best for you.

Good luck.

 

[Scar59]

See my avatar, "no start no brake". It was an 813A1 w/w and cargo cover. Got it for a song/bought it for parts. Battery box was empty and the parking brake cable was broken. New batteries fired it right up and drove 120 miles home. Fixed the brake cable and its part of the collction now. Ive recovered 7 trucks and had 2 moved for me. They all needed to be jumped/fueled. Only one low milage RRAD rebuilt 931 was a bummer and it started on its own, however it had a no. 3 cyl. liner issue and water in the oil. It was traded out for other cool stuff. Follow all the previous guidance and cross your fingers.
JC

 

[swbradley1]

Gimpy and I just recovered one for another member and it started and ran very well.

They picked it up at my place and broke down the first time in Cincy, the second time in KY and the last time in TN. It was towed the rest of the way home.

Recent rebuild but all minor problems that ended the drive home for it.

Buy what you want and where you want but be prepared to fix or tow or trailer it home. Always take an open credit card with a big limit.

 

[98G]

Would you risk it? Has anyone had a truck that wouldn't start have a catastrophic problem that made the investment bad? I've seen a few trucks that have that listed as won't start and curious if there is simple tricks and troubleshooting that will bring them back to life. I have a spot near the auction site that I can move them to for repair but prefer not to incur a huge expense to fix.

Some of these trucks seem to be in good shape and so I think the "not start" feature will help me get a deal on price.

I'm nearby and available with towbars and a truck tractor to tow with.....

A truck that runs in the video is risk enough. One that is advertised as "won't start with a jump" should be assumed dead unless you know otherwise. I've done it - I got lucky and drove my m925 1000 miles home even though it was advertised as dead.... but I only paid parts prices for it - my default plan was "pull the winch and tires and scrap the rest"

The trucks in question I rate at $2200 without winches, and $3100 with winches, and that is with a zero cost to recover. (But I predict they'll go well over $5k)

Edit to add - just ask Droprat about getting a deader...

Oh, and vehicles at the site these are located always go way high. High enough that I found it worthwhile to go to Ft Bliss to get equivalent vehicles and come out way ahead even after figuring time and fuel at $1 per mile.

 

[Captaincarrier]

Many vehicles have been sold thinking the engine was locked up, only to find a bad starter.

 

[73m819]

In my previews, I have found that emg. stops are pulled, then pushed in but not reset so the truck will not start, the master switch left on so the batteries are dead, run the truck out of fuel and a few other things so the truck will look like a cheap non-runner

 

[Coffey1]

Yes how well I know the truck Steve and Gimp picked up for Andy looked and run like a brand new truck.
And a $ 1.50 part caused it to have be towed the last two hundred miles.
So always plan for the worst and if it gives you no problems you will have a smile for a week.

 

[Tornadogt]

Most 5 tons that won't start with a jump just need the fuel system bled and they fire right up. I've only had one so far that I couldn't start and it had melted pistons in it. And I've probably recovered close to 100 trucks last year and one today. The one today was a " no start with jump, no brakes" I bled the fuel system and fired it up, replaced some air fittings that were robbed from the air dryer and it had air and brakes. Sometimes mechanics just don't want to deal with these trucks so they deadline them with lies. Grease pencil some made up issues on the door and send it to auction.

Was it a Nice truck with a little boom on the back?? Thanks again Garrett for the recovery...

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yes it was! This last one anyway. No problem!

 

[chandler]

I'm nearby and available with towbars and a truck tractor to tow with.....

A truck that runs in the video is risk enough. One that is advertised as "won't start with a jump" should be assumed dead unless you know otherwise. I've done it - I got lucky and drove my m925 1000 miles home even though it was advertised as dead.... but I only paid parts prices for it - my default plan was "pull the winch and tires and scrap the rest"

The trucks in question I rate at $2200 without winches, and $3100 with winches, and that is with a zero cost to recover. (But I predict they'll go well over $5k)

Edit to add - just ask Droprat about getting a deader...

Oh, and vehicles at the site these are located always go way high. High enough that I found it worthwhile to go to Ft Bliss to get equivalent vehicles and come out way ahead even after figuring time and fuel at $1 per mile.

Fort Bliss would work or as far as Ogden. Thanks for the information. Bye the way, where are these videos I hear about? Neither GL or GP has any videos..Edit: Yikes, I just found the videos on GL, much better.

 

[chandler]

Since I have you all here. Off-topic, what if there is no date of delivery? Can I still get a SF-97 and title it and if not is there still a way to title?

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

Since I have you all here. Off-topic, what if there is no date of delivery? Can I still get a SF-97 and title it and if not is there still a way to title?

With GL it doesn't matter; you fill in the blanks to get your SF97. Make it a 2015 if you want. But I wouldn't.

 

[Tow4]

With GL it doesn't matter; you fill in the blanks to get your SF97. Make it a 2015 if you want. But I wouldn't.

Right, if it's a 1984 truck that was rebuilt in 2009, it's not a 2009. I've had to research the serial number to figure out the year before applying for the SF97. Do yourself a favor and be accurate on the year.