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Bleeding Brakes

Loose Deuce

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What is the skinny on bleading brakes, just do it like you would on anything else? I took off today and at the cross roads I had no brakes (pucker time). Well the master cyl was dry, and I cant find any leaks. I fill it up and pump it several times and now I have breaks. I blead every thing and find no air in the lines. I guess you dont have to prime the master cyl. when it starts sucking air. It just didnt seem right, what do you guys think? I couldnt find any bleader valve on the master cyl. but I blead the one on the Hydra-pack, but it was ok.
 

Loose Deuce

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Oh, I forgot, what purpose does that little crappy line thats on top of the master cyl. fill cap supposed to do? I didnt see any other brake lines coming off the master cyl. other than the top, unless theres one behind it i cant see.<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_blush.gif" alt="Blush">
 

Recovry4x4

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Alrightythen, the little crappy line is the vent line and if you ever ford the truck, you''ll be glad its there. The master can be bled by cracking the line on it while under pressure. I've ran one out of fluid before and found that I had to bench bleed it to get it to come back up. You might have a wheel cylinder weeping. Also check to see if your truck has the airpack vent modification. I'll have to really dig to find the info in this one but when the airpack starts going bad it pumps fluid into this line. Origianlly on the older trucks, the line vented into the air cleaner and thus the extra fluid went there and was neer seen. As far as actual bleeding, I bought Russell Speed Bleeders. They are a bleeder screw with a stainless check valve int them.
 

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Monster Man

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Originally posted by Recovry4x4

I bought Russell Speed Bleeders. They are a bleeder screw with a stainless check valve int them.
cool, it's good to know those are available. Are they just a standard thread or did you get them someplace special?
 

Recovry4x4

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The Russell's I bought came off Ebay. Russell part #3951. They are 7/12x20 threads. The bleeder scre itself is a bit shorter but they work just great. I would suggest them to everybody, makes bleeding a one man job. I have made a powerbleeder for my deuce. I use a 1 gallon pump type ag sprayer and I've adapted a line to an extra mastercylinder cap. Works good as long as you don't let it run out of fluid. Remove the cap and it makes a great platform for topping off the mastercylinder. I'm currently making adapters out of flat aluminum stock so that I can use it on my M1009 and M880.
 

Loose Deuce

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I just got two of those bleeder valves off ebay with that same part No. but it says 7/16"-#3951 not 7/12,was that a miss print? I didnt know they make these things, all I need to do is find four more.<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_approve.gif" alt="Approve">

When you hook up your pump with the other lid, what do you do about the line that went to the lid? looks like it Tees into a brake line? will the brake system be an open system them? I'm slow trying to figgure this line out of the cap business.<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_shock.gif" alt="Shock">
 

Recovry4x4

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Ooops, it was a typo. it is 7/16x20 not 7/12. Glad that was caught. That line on the lid is only a vent line. Not hooking it up while powerbleeding does the system no harm. Lots of people I've spoke to leave it disconnected. I connect mine since I live an a swamp and someday might need it to get to higher ground.
 
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