Blinkers INOP, Need advice

[SSG ALBANESE]

Hi everyone,

My CUCV M1008 is have issues with the blinker system.

Issue: When left or right turn signal is engaged the dash blinker light comes on, stays steady and does not blink. The front and rear bulbs do come on but do not flash. I can use my fingers up and down to simulate the system working fine. The flasher does not click. Hazards flash but quicker than they should using a heavy duty flasher.

What I have done:
1) Scrolled though other posts within our site finding no new info.
2) Used TM (have not torn apart the harness in hopes I am missing something)
3) Replaced Fuse
4) Replaced Flasher (tried switching the hazard and turn flasher but nothing changed and hazards still working.)
5) Purchased new bulb harnesses all the way around. Cut out all old and replaced, cleaned each ground.
6) Installed all new bulbs and used dielectric grease.
7) Dug into the Column and replaced the directional switch.
Unbolted the fuse box and confirmed wiring is attached in the back, and it is.

Hoping that someone has come as far as I have and found a solution. Advice on proceeding would be great.

Thank you.
Rob

 

[gimpyrobb]

Hand signals are still legal aren't they?

 

[SSG ALBANESE]

lol ok Gimpy, I was so excited to get an email and now..... well.... just no hope for this issue hahaha

 

[Tinstar]

I would go through each corner and check all the grounds and bulb sockets.
Hopefully you replaced the turn signal switch with an ACDelco one.
Have read about issues with the cheap brand ones.

Other than that, and what you've already done, I can't think of anything else right now.

Keep us updated.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I would go through each corner and check all the grounds and bulb sockets.

Yeah, I was noticing that grounds were not on his list. If they are flaky, they may provide enough resistance that the bulbs are not drawing enough current to trigger the flasher. Those old-school flashers are heat-driven. If you don't have enough current flowing, the element won't heat up enough to trigger the switch.

 

[SSG ALBANESE]

I did all the grounds and bulb sockets. Look at #5. I shouldn't have used the term 'harness'.... though in the rear and front light assemblies I did change each socket with new, I just combined them and stated "harness".

Unbolted, wire wheeled, with a Dremel, the ground wires and the grounding surfaces.

I even added an extra body to frame ground, heavier duty than the last.... just for good measure. Still kept the old one, just cleaned it up.

 

[rustystud]

Did you replace the chassis ground ? This is the ground strap from the body to the frame. I have added an extra strap from the body straight to the battery ground. Also at the body joints there (fender to cab etc) should be a small ground wire that connects the different sections that gets broken a lot of times.
If that all checks out then I would run a test wire (positive) straight to the bulb from the switch, and see if it works then. If it doesn't then there is still a ground problem.

 

[cucvrus]

How about the flasher. The little round 2 prong one in the fuse box. To check switch the top one for the bottom one. Do the 4 ways work?

 

[SSG ALBANESE]

Wow, after sitting here for a few hours and am on page 23 of posts I refound my post hoping to find someone with blinker issues.

Rustystud - Chassis ground is good, I added a second one as well. Have not tried to use a jumper wire from the switch to a bulb but I wil.

cucvrus - Flashers work, seem to flash in-between normal and rapid (fast) but they all work. Switched the 4 way flasher to the signal flasher with no differences.

 

[cucvrus]

I you went since April with no flashers you don't need them anyway. Use hand signals. Really. Short of tearing your truck apart and looking at it piece by piece all the good tips have been given to you. Short of no bulbs in sockets and a bad turn signal switch. Good Luck. report back when you find the problem. Maybe we can all use some updated learning.

 

[DREDnot]

Are you running LED bulbs by any chance?

Are your blackout switches still installed and functional? Or are they removed/bypassed with jumper wires in the harness sockets?