Block heater - - Tank Style

[Somemedic]

Another problem with this type heater is you just can't plug it in whenever you want. The engine has to be hot enough for the thermostat to be open for it to work correctly.

I dont believe this line of thought is correct. While the output from the block heater works best flowing directly into a freeze plug access it is still acceptable for the output to be Y'ed into the crossover via the heater core feed hose.

The block heater backflows warmed water from the bottom of the motor (via a 'T' in the lower radiator hose) into the crossover (back into the top motor). If the thermostat is open it will tend to flow into the radiator, not doing a bit of good for the engine. The only time the thermostat should open is when the motor has a surplus (I dig that word) of heated water, ensuring the engine is well heated. The cool water on the radiator side should see to it that the themostat stays closed though.

 

[Irv]

Dipstick oil heater

I bought a heater at Carquest a couple of years ago for $25. It replaces your dipstick. I don't recall the power level, but it surely couldn't be much. Just pull out your dipstick (not a long one like in a deuce or 5T) and stuff this one down the hole. Plug in and you're good for some kind of nippy weather, but probably not a lot. I used it on a VW diesel. Way less heating needs, but it did work. It obviously works by heating the engine oil directly. Irv

 

[SmokeyDod]

The M1009 I got at Ft Jackson has this same heater on it. Looks like the marking that were on front bumper suggested it may have been in MA. But no rust on it. I saw the elect. plug hanging under grill and thought it was the std. freeze plug type but when cked it out it was this type. I plugged it up just to see what it would do & you could hear the water moving & it got hot quick (btw it wasn't cold at that time at all). It's only one I have seen with this type and I have had 5 of them. If I can help, let me know.

 

[dannyf700]

block heater

Block heaters are the best. Get the 1000 watt block heater and A 150 watt stick on oil pan heater and you are good to go. I put this on my truck and at -25 the glow plug light came on for 3 to 5 sec. and it started right up.

 

[CUCV85]

30.00 napa block heater 605-3180 REMOVE freeze plug

I use a freeze plug heater and it works fine

I also am using a - freeze plug - knocked out - Napa Block Heater.
Napa 1.625"
BK 605-3180
$30.00
I used a small punch to make a hole in the freeze plug dead center, then used a small chisel to make the opening a little bigger to grab with needle nose pliers. I then used a very large punch and a 3 lb hammer to force it into the block. Tap lightly at the end as to not put it all the way into the block
Remove with needle nose pliers or locking style aka "vise grip" needle nose.

 

[Screamin' Metal]

Has anyone used this style of block heater?

SSDiesel Supply :: GM 6.5 TD Specialists

I'm incline to do this route for the ease of install but there in lies my question...

If you look at the heater hoses that go to the heater core, one comes from the water pump and one goes into the radiator.

With this kind of block heater where would you connect it to a 6.2 and get it to circulate through the block?

Do the usual....drain the radiator.....


The bottom nipple hooks up to your blocks drain plug. Yes....the 6.2 has one, but its way cramped to get at. You can get a lower radiator hose adaptor thats got the small hose hookup on it. ( I made my own....) Hook up the lower hose there....you'll have to cut your lower radiator hose to get it in there.

Now....install the hose onto the top of the heater....look at your engine and find the upper most heater hose that connects to the crossover on the front of motor. Cut THAT hose 1/2 way between the motor and the battery. Leave your connecting hose a little longroute it so the longer hose come kinda close to the batterys. ( The cold slows the chemical reaction that occurs in batteries....thats why they loose over 1/2 their cranking power in the cold. The warmth off the heater hose will assure a quick start even in sub-zero temps.) Don't slide that hose onto the Y-connector all the way yet.

Now....start pouring in your coolant mix slowly......when it gets to the top of the radiator....look over at the Y connector your put into your heater hose.....if it isn't dribbling coolant....pull it loose really quick and shove it back on fully....You should've heard some girgling and has coolant come fome the heater hose and the heater your plumbing up.

You just allowed the air to escape from the hoses by pulling the one off quickly and putting it back on.

Run your cord and wire tie it securly by where your slave cable plugs in. Now....start the truck...check for leaks...shouldn't have any....then drive it around and let it run for about 30 minutes. Let it cool down, open the radiator cap and top her off.

Now....crank her up again and let her run for about 15 minutes to open the thermostat and build up pressure and she's ready to plug in without incident...