• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Blower Motor acting weird and now truck will not crank. M1008A1

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,292
1,779
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Also, check the bottom most fuse.Also, I'm wondering if the suppressor on the blower motor may have shorted to ground. It can be eliminated.
Not sure about the yellow wire on the schematic showing a 50 with it.
The more I think about your issues, the more I think you have a bad fusible link, wire or connection on a 12v wire feeding the ignition switch and or the heater fan.
Suppressor had been removed before truck came to auction.
The 50A is on the brown wire I believe, but don’t think it’s any issue.
Will check the bottom fuse again and swap it out with a new one JIK.
Same with blower motor fuse.

How many fusible links are under Dash?
Will be taking out instrument cluster Monday for testing and troubleshooting.
 
Last edited:

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,292
1,779
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Removed ignition switch after testing a ton of stuff.
That thing is so fun to get to.
Power was good all the way to the ignition switch, but no 12v power going to starter relay from said switch.

All fuses were triple checked and the recommended ones were swapped out with new.
12v block on firewall was completely disassembled and metal wire brushed. Installed with new electric grease.
One wire had some corrosion so I went ahead and repaired it.

Looks like this terminal is toast.
Will pick up new part tomorrow.

Have a a few other things to check today.
 

Attachments

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,292
1,779
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
6A2040EF-E515-4E59-B3A5-08AE61214CB7.jpg7B3418F4-3218-4F23-904D-50BEE49EC267.jpgF6FD3D94-4725-42B0-9AF4-63FC2777E9FF.jpg0E18EF28-C88C-489D-8305-FDE32EAD4BE1.jpg

When it got hot, it came out of assembly just enough to stop making contact.
You can see where it was arcing a bit then stopped when it could no longer make contact.

Will see if new part solves issue tomorrow.
Part needed replaced anyway at least.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,277
1,805
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
I am glad you found something not correct after going to all the fun involved with removing that switch. However, the fan motor part still might be hovering out there. Did you remove the ground wire under the hood from the fan motor, clean it and put it back on? Both ends?

Also, remove the center bolt for the 6 pin ground plug above the parking brake, clean both sides and put that back together.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,292
1,779
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
It’s fixed!!!

New switch installed and it fired right up.
I thought I had installed an ACDelco ignition switch when first getting truck going.
I did not.
It was not ACDelco but a different cheaper brand.

This time I did install an ACDelco part.
It fired right up and no fan issues anymore
Go figure......


Thanks to everyone for their help
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,292
1,779
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
So do I, but when first got truck from auction, was just getting parts to get it going.
Didn’t want to wait days for initial ACDelco parts.

First it was the cheap fuel pump.
Lasted two weeks.
Replaced with ACDelco and no issues since.

Now the Ignition Switch.

Always replace parts now with ACDelco for that reason, but back then I was in the “get it running” zone.
Luckily it was just these two.
Both critical parts from cheap manufacturers have now failed.
Replaced with good parts.

I’m happy.

43538BAD-CAAC-4808-BD18-4AA5B72254D0.jpgDF5C1ACE-5F80-465E-A4D5-E2B009FAC8D8.jpg20032E82-4FF6-4777-B919-A480DB4357EE.jpg
 

3jumpjeep

Member
157
1
18
Location
Linsdale, TN
I have seen the fusible link going to the 12v firewall block partially burn and still show 12v but not carry full load. You can try running a good size wire direct from the battery to that block, that will eliminate a bad link.
Don't bypass a fusible link with wire. Just replace with new. It's a fuse.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
Last edited:

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,292
1,779
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Thank you
I found that out later.
Another SS member called and discussed the schematics and troubleshooting with me.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks