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Bobbed deuce vibration

779
20
18
Location
Springfield AR
Ok guys After I put my new a3 wheels on and ever since I've had a bad vibration at 2200+ rpm at 60mph when my tires were on stock deuce wheels I never had the vibration and could cruise at 63mph comfortably. I feel the vibration in the whole truck it feels like it's gonna shake apart but only at top end speed do you feel it. I read some threads on what it could be but figured I'd better get some advice. I have NATO NDT 14.00 20 tires.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,384
113
Location
Mason, TN
Check your u joints for play first. Then the input/output yokes on the axles Then engine mounts. And transmission mounts. Does it get worse or better with a slight bit of throttle? If it is worse with only a slight bit of throttle but better with more throttle then you will be looking for a u joint or driveline bearing. Every deuce and multi fuel 5 ton I was in I couldn't tell if the whole truck was rattling from the engine shaking every mount


Also you may pull your front drive flanges and see if something internal up there could be causing it
 
779
20
18
Location
Springfield AR
I checked the u joints and Jack shaft also checked front end it feels like a side to side shimmy only started after I put the new rims on not sure if it's a tire not seated or what It only happens at high speed. It was sthere as soon as the tires and new wheels were installed.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,985
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
"It was sthere as soon as the tires and new wheels were installed."
So you have answered the question
Change them out one at a time with the matched set spare, you'll find it
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
2,999
295
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
Can you drive through it and see if it smooth's back out? My truck used to have a bad hop at 46-48 mph (923 on 14's) and I simply drove through it for a while. I finally got tired of it and lowered the air pressure to about 20 psi all around and drove with some noticeable sidewall sag at 15 mph for about 10 miles. After airing back up to normal pressures they ride smooth as silk.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Egg shaped GY AT-2 had that symptom on my M929A2. Went to the Michelin XZL 395. You are talking bias ply NDT, correct?
 
Last edited:

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,986
2,522
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
Why go to a shop if you can do it yourself!?

If you don't want to go as far as building your own "balancing stand" (explained here...) then at least check your tires one-by-one, mounted on your front hub. That, after removing the splined center flange and fully retracting the brake shoes, of course. Make sure that the hub & drum assembly rotates completely free and that it isn't out of balance, in itself.

Pretty sure you will find out what is causing your vibration, that way.;-)
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Are you sure these are a radial tire? Some that I looked at in that size were bias. If bias, they would have a "warm up" of probably 15 miles before they give up the last flat spot from setting.
 

Scar59

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,811
41
38
Location
Mt. Eden, KY
Is the CTIS counter weight still installed on the wheel, other CTIS hardware still installed??
 
779
20
18
Location
Springfield AR
No ctis on it only regular valve stems. They are 18 ply. I'll be getting new tires by next year. I'm gonna try to air them down and see if that helps with the vibration my truck may be too light gonna try 35 or 40 psi after I try to go to 20psi and try to see if that helps.
 
779
20
18
Location
Springfield AR
Well found the wobble adjusted steering box screw and tighted drag link ends. I had the speedo almost buried vibration is gone. I did some reading on here went through a few threads and decided to start there. That fixed it Thanks everyone for the input.
 
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