bobbing 1st deuce

[bigred350]

going 2 be bobbing my first duece have 105 trailer for the bed an front springs an hangers sure this has been said many times but to make my life easier does anyone have the measurements like how much to cut off the frame an where to place the spring center. i could figure it out but so nice to hear from people that have done it already thank u. truck is a 71 m35a2 normal length

 

[Tinwoodsman]

I bobbed mine shortening the stock bed so my measurements would not apply. But remember, the fire wrench is your friend. Good luck.

 

[jamesfrom180]

Ok here's a hand out.
That search button up top sucks...We all know this. Click on "advanced search" enter this in the box "bobbed and 105" don't use the quotation marks and plenty of entries will arise. I recommend the ones that were started by 100dollarman. I believe there is one here that was done on bobbing a duece that is excellent done with one of the apple programs for the write up and lots of pics. Good luck and let the flaming begin.

 

[bigred350]

bobbed

thanks ill check it out. yea the search gave me everything but what i was looking for lol

 

[Billy Bobbed]

I cut 37" off my frame,still have the piece of frame.The fun part about the whole bobbing was taking everything off the back of the frame and redrilling the holes,and putting it all back together.Have fun .

 

[ranchhopper]

I cut 34 inches off all the ones I did always measure from the back of the frame I always put the rear bumperettes back on the truck if your not going to use them subtract 11 inches from the 34.

 

[ICAT]

check out this web sight

www.xm381.com

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Drilling the holes is a real challenge. I finally went with drilling a smaller pilot hole and then expand it to the size wanted using a step drill. The step drill makes short work of the frame holes. Sometimes you have to drill one side and then go to the other side because the step drill is not quite deep enough for the deuce frame.

 

[WeBeJeepin]

I moved my leading axle back exactly 5 inches. I put a mark on the frame (using a carpenter square) at the original center of axle and then measured back 5". I had my driveshaft lengthened exactly 5 inches. I had to cut out part of the center upright off of the front side of the M105 bed to make it fit just right and not have a huge gap between the cab and the bed. I dont remember exactly how much I cut off the frame in the back but I would highly recommend the 'measure twice, cut once' saying. Another thing I learned from experience: make sure you have a thick enough plate beween the lowest spring and the top of the axle so that the axle is not sitting on the bolt head that runs through the stack of springs. John

 

[WeBeJeepin]

By the way, I just finished with the major work a couple weeks ago so let me know if you have any questions and I will try to answer them while it is fresh in my mind. PM me if you want to know how I attached the truck frame to the trailer frame because I am scared to say it in front of everybody on here

 

[ApopkaFL]

I had a chance to inspect the trailer springs I was not really happy with them. I plan to start my bob M35A3 this weekend. I found a donor truck for the tub ( for the 4 door ) and the front springs off the A2. That is what I plan to use. I can not say how much of the frame is coming off untill the other cab is put on. I do know its going to be a short bed. So I dout any of the frame will have to be cut off.


Rodman

 

[11Echo]

I moved my leading axle back exactly 5 inches. I put a mark on the frame (using a carpenter square) at the original center of axle and then measured back 5". I had my driveshaft lengthened exactly 5 inches. I had to cut out part of the center upright off of the front side of the M105 bed to make it fit just right and not have a huge gap between the cab and the bed. I dont remember exactly how much I cut off the frame in the back but I would highly recommend the 'measure twice, cut once' saying. Another thing I learned from experience: make sure you have a thick enough plate beween the lowest spring and the top of the axle so that the axle is not sitting on the bolt head that runs through the stack of springs. John

This is exactly why I lengthened my driveshaft 5.75". I did not trim the trailer box and got it as far forward as possible.

 

[bigred350]

that xm381 site is nice

 

[Bob H]

I see you are using deuce front springs and hangars, good start!
There is no way I would put a trailer frame under the truck frame and certainly wouldn't weld it on.

 

[A/C Cages]

I use my plasma cutter to do a quick blast pilot hole and then drill them out to size.

 

[TJP]

Webejeepin,

Do you have any pics of the M105 bed mod, I am getting ready to bobb also and would like no gap between the cab and bed. I have seen many bobbed duces that looks like the bed does not sit over the back axle in the center.

Thanks
tjp

 

[11Echo]

Webejeepin,

Do you have any pics of the M105 bed mod, I am getting ready to bobb also and would like no gap between the cab and bed. I have seen many bobbed duces that looks like the bed does not sit over the back axle in the center.

Thanks
tjp

You will need at least a small gap between cab and bed. Lengthening my driveshaft 5.75" allows for the M105 bed to be located as far forward as possible with but a .75" gap from the cab mount. There is not much space between the cab mount and bed and without cutting/modifying the bed. I used a set of front springs/parts I purchased from an SS member and a bolt kit from www.easternsurplus.net

I like the way mine turned out!

 

[Floridianson]

Webejeepin,

Do you have any pics of the M105 bed mod, I am getting ready to bobb also and would like no gap between the cab and bed. I have seen many bobbed duces that looks like the bed does not sit over the back axle in the center.

Thanks
tjp

If you have not started yet a little tip. When you are tourching the side plate off blow all of the rivets off not just the ones that hold it to the frame. Use a axe and a sludge. ( I love it when some say I use a chisel) no no. Put the axe between the frame and plate on top inbetween the rivets and smack that sucker right off. If you have not done the inside rivets that are in those little pocketts then do those. ( this is fun because it a hard place to stand /sit/ be up side down trying to work torch in a hole) After you have everything disconnected now with the side plate removed you take the axe again and inbetween the frame and rear tandem mounting bracketts wedge and smack. It's easer to do it and hard to do this with the side plate still there. Move the axe head to different spots working up and back till it drops loose.
Now after you drop everything retourch what little is left of the rivets flush with frame then air hammer to drive out the rivet.
Also drilling the Deuce frame is not problem. You want to try a hard frame try and drill a 5 ton frame. There you need a magnet base drill press and annular bit at 70 bucks a piece.

 

[TJP]

Thanks for all the input and info, I will take all the advise and put it to good use.

Thanks Again
TJP

 

[WeBeJeepin]

Sorry I haven't responded to you question about the bed, but the truck is at our shop at work and I keep forgetting to take pictures for you. I torched part of the center support of the M105 bed off and it looks really good with the 5" lengthened driveshaft. I tend to be a little torch-happy when it comes to things like that. I need to get some pictures for you with the mounted bed. It looks great.