bobbing a deuce then towing

[hounddog1983]

New to the site, hi everyone. We are bobbing a deuce in Newberry, FL first one and was wondering has anyone ever pulled a bumper or gooseneck trailer after bobbing one of these? or suggestions on a gooseneck location before be cut this frame? or no gooseneck at all and just bumper

 

[tobyS]

I didn't cut the frame, I put a 105 bed even at the back and located the axle in the wheelwell center. My gooseneck ball is just under the bed and 9" in back of the axle. Pintle is untouched and I plan to pull on both. I use springs AND air bag overloads. I'm not done to tell you how it works.

I used the 105 spring, all 11 layers, completely disassembled, deburred, cleaned painted and put back together with aluminum paint between layers. Also set my shackles at about 15* for smooth ride. My thought is to get a good ride with no load and use the bags for the load leveling.

 

[hounddog1983]

I didn't cut the frame, I put a 105 bed even at the back and located the axle in the wheelwell center. My gooseneck ball is just under the bed and 9" in back of the axle. Pintle is untouched and I plan to pull on both. I use springs AND air bag overloads. I'm not done to tell you how it works.

I used the 105 spring, all 11 layers, completely disassembled, deburred, cleaned painted and put back together with aluminum paint between layers. Also set my shackles at about 15* for smooth ride. My thought is to get a good ride with no load and use the bags for the load leveling.

Got a pic by chance how that looks not cutting the frame? Thanks for any help

 

[tobyS]

Bed is not on yet but I'll put up a few details.... spring, rear bumper/lights, rebuilt tranny with hydraulic pump.

I'm building a center section between the cab and bed to hold spare and put a hydraulic winch for A frame crane.

 

[hounddog1983]

Nice work, keep up the good work

 

[Bill Nutting]

Bed is not on yet but I'll put up a few details.... spring, rear bumper/lights, rebuilt tranny with hydraulic pump.

I'm building a center section between the cab and bed to hold spare and put a hydraulic winch for A frame crane.

I really like the rear bumper and tail light set up! That steel looks strong enough for a class 5 receiver. With that you would have three hitch options. I’m guessing you are building a work truck.

 

[Floridianson]

Bed is not on yet but I'll put up a few details.... spring, rear bumper/lights, rebuilt tranny with hydraulic pump.

I'm building a center section between the cab and bed to hold spare and put a hydraulic winch for A frame crane.

Do believe yellow does not go on the rear. Red only rear, red rear side corner. Yellow mid truck or forward bed and yellow up front and front corners.
Maybe four reds rear incase one fails to work.

 

[tobyS]

This project has temporarily stalled because I'm trying to get machinery together for hauling sawmill waste to use as mushroom substrate....massive amounts. Eventually the deuce can pull the 1061 I'm modifying but for now, my efforts go back to the 929 as primary puller.

Back bumper is 3/8" thick but didn't extend quite far enough, so I added the part with lights. The light part can take a hit and soften the blow just a little bit by the offending vehicle, I reason. Since we are about the slowest vehicle on the road besides farm machinery, I want to be seen. All my lights have a high and low LED and wired individually....for control, fading, flash or patterns.

It's hard to get much of a photo of the center apparatus, that will be stood up and welded in place to a saddle. Once up, I can mount the bed. And there is a duckbill?? That extends forward over the cab, covering it completely and giving a high work platform.

I plated the frame with 11" x3" x 1/4" x 10' to just behind the cab. My math was off and the spring mount top bolts ended up going through the curved section of the old frame.....a pain to drill and takes longer bolts.
When you take off the trunion mount, check to see that the joint has not held water and rusted. Since you need to go down with the spring mounts, plating may make sense for you too. Add 2" or 4", but not 3".

The channel with the ball has 1/2" thick web, machine washers both sides and a 21k, 2 5/16" ball.

 

[tobyS]

Do believe yellow does not go on the rear. Red only rear, red rear side corner. Yellow mid truck or forward bed and yellow up front and front corners.
Maybe four reds rear incase one fails to work.

I see all kinds of trucks with yellow turn signals in back. But I'll make sure.

There are lots of combinations possible as each light has a 3 SO wire coming to it from the controller box.

 

[Jbulach]

Do believe yellow does not go on the rear. Red only rear, red rear side corner. Yellow mid truck or forward bed and yellow up front and front corners.
Maybe four reds rear incase one fails to work.

Think it’s fine for turn signals, just not brakes. I know I’ve owned at least one car with rear amber signals. Can’t for the life of me remember which one of the many it was though, hopefully it will come to me...

 

[hounddog1983]

How does the truck look not cutting the frame moving the axle only having one rear??

 

[frank8003]

busy busy busy

 

[tobyS]

How does the truck look not cutting the frame moving the axle only having one rear??

I'm too far from "done" to answer that. There is about a 32" gap between the bed and back of cab which gives room for a spare 395 and a high mount hydraulic winch with my build. If I were doing it for someone else, I would probably just cut a stock bed down to length (even at back of frame) and keep the spare in the bed.

Semi tractors inspired my desire to open the pintle up and get rid of the bumperettes. Now I can nearly jack a trailer to 90*. Also, my reasoning is that longer wheel base, with the hitch close (as possible when centered on the bed) to the axle will help a lot with any towing.

One thing I suggest when making a deuce 4x4 and putting 395 or even bigger tires, especially a pull vehicle is to put 1 1/2" brake cylinders on both axles. A3 has that size on the front and is a 50/50 system while older deuce has single circuit with 1 3/8". Thus removing one axle is compensated by increasing the brake force on the big tires, which have considerable more torque than a 9.00. The 1 1/2" cylinders are readily available and mount with just a small push rod modification.

 

[hounddog1983]

Thanks for all the info. Not sure if I'm gonna shorten the frame or leave it yet. See how it looks before cutting. I did see a bobbed deuce the other day with the stock dual tires on it may go that rough. I'm not looking for taller tires
Thanks again

 

[cattlerepairman]

Single axle long bed deuce?

I was looking around the web and came across what CC Surplus is calling a long bed bobbed deuce. I have attached a picture. It says it has the full length 12' bed on it but has a single axle. I am assuming from what I can see in the pictures they used a set of either front deuce springs or...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[hounddog1983]

Well thanks very much cattlerepairman that is help full for sure. Im the middle of doing this build i didn't think im cut my frame and go with a single rear. I know back on the day the G506 military trucks did this setup stock from the factory and didn't think it would look bad. Thanks again

 

[Iski]

Who made your lifted spring to axel perch?

 

[tobyS]

Who made your lifted spring to axel perch?

I'm not sure who you are asking. Here is mine. The block has about 5* angle and a drain hole in the middle so water will drain from the bolt nut/washer.

 

[Iski]

I'm not sure who you are asking. Here is mine. The block has about 5* angle and a drain hole in the middle so water will drain from the bolt nut/washer.

That's what I wanted to know, looks like a bit of Fabrication, Thanks

 

[Iski]

That's what I wanted to know, looks like a bit of Fabrication, Thanks

The mount looks good. The air suspension is very interesting. I'm still going back and forth on using My M105 Springs and losing my trailer or getting some M35 front springs, the old which will I like more dilemma.