Bought a M929A2 today, I changed the oil before starting & found 2 Quarts of anti-freeze; assume blown Head Gasket?

[74M35A2]

Disagree, the fuel cut solenoids are not junk. Caveat is they won't stay retracted when people try to stretch their battery life beyond the label rating. In that case, the battery is the issue, not the fuel solenoid. Yes it is advantageous to temporarily remove them or zip tie them in the pulled open position, but otherwise they typically work fine to do what they are intended to on a healthy system.

 

[98G]

A spray can of ether for $5 from the truck stop will tell you if you have fuel problems or something else. You can sit in the driver's seat with the door open and spray it over your left shoulder at the intake stack while cranking.


Regarding fuel cut off- pulling the cable kills it by stopping fuel flow. Move the lever as if the cable is pushing on it and tie it in that position.

I'm suspecting you have etched bearings and will need an inframe. But I'm also suspecting it'll run.

 

[Jbulach]

Disagree, the fuel cut solenoids are not junk. Caveat is they won't stay retracted when people try to stretch their battery life beyond the label rating. In that case, the battery is the issue, not the fuel solenoid. Yes it is advantageous to temporarily remove them or zip tie them in the pulled open position, but otherwise they typically work fine to do what they are intended to on a healthy system.

Agree with all of the above, proved it to myself. These 8.3 will easily spin over with junk battery’s. If any doubt on the solenoid, or battery’s, 5 seconds and a zip tie will take it out of the equation. This is how I zip-tie mine in the run position.

This is the stoped/fuel shut off position.

 

[gringeltaube]

Also, if it has coolant in the oil but no oil in the coolant, that means your leak is where coolant pressure is higher than oil pressure.

I have learned that it could well be a failed seal (#3917737) at the bottom of a cylinder sleeve.

 

[levitate]

If you’re trying to check the fuel shutoff solenoid you need to bump the starter to see if it is working. One wire is ground, one is to pull it up (when started is engaged), one is to hold it up. If it doesn’t pull up on its own, leave the key on and pull it up by hand. It will probably stay there. If not, just take it off. If it’s getting fuel and has compression it will run.

By the way before you start chasing it, there is no throttle body and diesels don’t have vacuum. It doesn’t care about any sensors.

Also, if it has coolant in the oil but no oil in the coolant, that means your leak is where coolant pressure is higher than oil pressure. So you can rule out the oil cooler.

When testing it was not moving, I did try to physically press the solenoid plunger up and it wouldn't stay.
Now everything makes sense; although I think I'm missing a spring so the fuel shutoff lever returns to the run position (ccw down)?
Sounds like this is a known issue on the forum, good link here. Weak batteries can cause a retraction issue if the voltage is too low.
A PDF on the wiring lifted from the other post is attached. Cummings part #: 3921980
Black = Ground
White = Pull-in
Red = Hold-in

As far as the leak, I can't be 100% certain there was no oil in the antifreeze if so not much; I was hoping it's the oil cooler..
I've not tracked down this critter yet circled in red, but I'm assuming it's a check valve or filter? part # 21415
In the yellow box black seal easily falls off, is this a dust cover?

Also in the yellow box below it looks like another uncapped connector?​

I'll be at in again later in the week; here's a picture of the truck:

 

[levitate]

I have learned that it could well be a failed seal (#3917737) at the bottom of a cylinder sleeve.

I'm assuming at least the top end has to be pulled to put this seal in place?

 

[Elijah95]

Red circle is a dinky late mwo when they eliminated the fender mount big canister fuel filter, added that and kept the original water separator mounted post lift pump there in yellow. Then later mwo came out to remount canister filter in fender and eliminate that stupid lawn mower in line filter


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[gringeltaube]

I'm assuming at least the top end has to be pulled to put this seal in place?

Correct.

 

[levitate]

Correct.

Is it safe to start if there is a failed seal (#3917737) at the bottom of a cylinder sleeve?

 

[levitate]

Red circle is a dinky late mwo when they eliminated the fender mount big canister fuel filter, added that and kept the original water separator mounted post lift pump there in yellow. Then later mwo came out to remount canister filter in fender and eliminate that stupid lawn mower in line filter


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Thanks for detailed what the parts are. What would you recommend replacing the existing in line filter with?
(I thought the same thing, how can that little filter handle any sort of flow over time)..

 

[levitate]

Disagree, the fuel cut solenoids are not junk. Caveat is they won't stay retracted when people try to stretch their battery life beyond the label rating. In that case, the battery is the issue, not the fuel solenoid. Yes it is advantageous to temporarily remove them or zip tie them in the pulled open position, but otherwise they typically work fine to do what they are intended to on a healthy system.

The batteries are certainly not new; quad 6V in series. I didn't even think to check the voltage under load since she cranked over. That's just silly of me because I've designed battery, solar and wind systems. In the front of my Deuce & 1/2 you can see the electric motor:

Eventually I'll put a Maxwell Ultracapacitor battery in; they last 10 years. Nasty if you short them; can be in the 50kW range on a dead short; take your watch off.

 

[98G]

The batteries are certainly not new; quad 6V in series. I didn't even think to check the voltage under load since she cranked over. That's just silly of me because I've designed battery, solar and wind systems. In the front of my Deuce & 1/2 you can see the electric motor:
View attachment 797374 View attachment 797375View attachment 797376
Eventually I'll put a Maxwell Ultracapacitor battery in; they last 10 years. Nasty if you short them; can be in the 50kW range on a dead short; take your watch off.

Not quad 6v in series . (At least almost certainly not).

4 x 12v. Series and parallel.

 

[Elijah95]

Thanks for detailed what the parts are. What would you recommend replacing the existing in line filter with?
(I thought the same thing, how can that little filter handle any sort of flow over time)..

If you’re missing the big canister, order a ken spencer full line and filter kit. Best money you’ll ever spend


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[Elijah95]

Thanks for detailed what the parts are. What would you recommend replacing the existing in line filter with?
(I thought the same thing, how can that little filter handle any sort of flow over time)..

If you’re missing the big canister, order a ken spencer full line and filter kit. Best money you’ll ever spend


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[levitate]

Not quad 6v in series . (At least almost certainly not).

4 x 12v. Series and parallel.

• I just glanced at them and they looked like 6V RV batteries, I'm sure your'e correct = 4 x 12V.
• Do you happen to know the required CCA?
• How does the start up draw differ between the M929A2 compared to a Deuce & 1/2?
  • The same batteries type I have my Deuce may work.
• Any part numbers our group sizes would be appreciated.

 

[levitate]

Going out tomorrow to work on the M929A2.. Hopefully I'll at least get it started. I'll report back.
If I have to tow it home, the wife's gonna lock me in the basement.. If you don't hear from me in a while, that's why..

 

[levitate]

I finally got the M29A2 started today. I pulled the fuel cutoff solenoid, filled a new fuel filter with fresh diesel, drained the aux tank = fresh diesel; used diesel safe starting fluid and she came alive.
It ran strong, no grey smoke, idled fine, forward reverse, power steering fine. CTIS was cranky because it looks like someone stole or removed the inflation system off two tires.. I'll deal with that in another thread.
The remaining issue:
It takes about 20 minutes to get up to temp, runs about 170F with the at 1750 RPM:
After 10 more minutes it starts feeding out water from the overflow canister when it it's ~201F: (see thermal photos)

1. During all of this the fan never kicks on; is this electric or mechanical; what temp should it turn on? Can I override this?
2. It seems when the thermostat is opening there is a pressure and temp differential which causes the overflow tank to overflow.
3. I know everyone expects a head gasket; I do to but the fan should be spinning; how is this kicked and what could be wrong?

• Tomorrow I'm gong to drain the oil and see if there is any water in the oil; If less than a cup or nothing I'll flush the oil + new filter again + cooling water and gently drive it 10 minutes home.
• What other possibility could there be on the cooling side, bad radiator, pump, fan, head gasket wackyness?
• Any ideas are much appreciated, passing out and going back in the AM.

 

[74M35A2]

Fan is mechanical and air actuated by a temp triggered air switch that is threaded into the top coolant return pipe. T-stat is 180F and fan switch about 200F.

Engine will not really reach fan temp while idling. Yes check again for water in the oil. If the fan is not coming on at all even at say 210F once driving, then they may have overheated it and that would explain why the head gasket is shot. An 8.3L should not have a failed head gasket for simply no reason. They are fairly robust.

 

[Jbulach]

Yep, they take forever to build heat without load, especially with 53 deg air temps, even at high idle. Judging by your thermal pic, your thermostat may have just started opening. The entire radiator will basically need to get over 200 before the shutterstat would want to open and engage the fan.

 

[levitate]

OK, Thanks guys. Heading out shortly to hopefully driver her home. Very little traffic so at least there will be airflow for the radiator.
The manual states the coolant normal operating temp is 190-200F so that makes sense; what is the worst case shutdown temp 215F?