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Brake Conversion

Ripcord01

Ripcord01

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I have this trailer that has no brakes. I would like to put brakes on it.
How do I know which brake kit to put on the wheels? Do I have to get new hubs and all new rotors ect.
Can someone guide me here?
Thanks,
 

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emmado22

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The easiest thing to do is go buy a whole new axle that has electric brakes on it. Unbolt the old one, bolt on the new one.
 
Ripcord01

Ripcord01

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That was my thought as well. I was trying to figure a way to use the cable brake system , but I don't see how I would be able to do that. So I thought electric brakes should not be that difficult to put on, I need a TM for this trailer.. It is a light trailer.(As in Lightbulb.)
 
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blybrook

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Take a measurement of the stud spacing that are holding the hub onto the axle. It appears that you may be able to add on a brake system to that axle if the stud spacing is correct. You would unbolt the current backing plate & hub, and then bolt on the new plate with the brake hardware; run the wires, assemble the drum and wheel assemblies before heading down the road.

You need to take a wheel off and likely the hub to know for sure. There may not be enough room to go with a drum brake, so you may end up with a rotor to keep the hub assembly the correct length. Without seeing it in person and taking measurements I cannot be 100% sure it will be possible.

I threw out the croft catalog I had, but you should be able to find most of the parts there or from dexter if the bolt spacing works out. They show what the spacing needs to be for their brake backing plates (typically). You will also need to know the hub diameters for getting the right drum assembly (bearing wise).

HTH
 
Ripcord01

Ripcord01

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"Take a measurement of the stud spacing that are holding the hub onto the axle."
You are getting a little personal here arent you? Measure my stud.lol

I have a measurement of 7 inches from top to bottom.
 
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blybrook

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Nothin personal...

I've reattached the photo of the studs with some MS Paint markings. The distance in question is the centerline distance of the studs. If it is 7"; the wheel is larger than it looks! Typically around 5 on 3-7/8" (12" Free-Backing Left Brake Assembly) has some additional information for the backing plate as one example.

It is best to have all of the bolts active as possible. You loose strength with a lower number of bolts. It is a factor of safety thing. The bolts have a semi-weird spacing as it is not a concentric circle.

I would also avoid marine brakes if possible; they are about double the cost of non-marine due to the anti-corrosion materials.
 

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Ripcord01

Ripcord01

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blybrook said:
Nothin personal...

I've reattached the photo of the studs with some MS Paint markings. The distance in question is the centerline distance of the studs. If it is 7"; the wheel is larger than it looks! Typically around 5 on 3-7/8" (12" Free-Backing Left Brake Assembly) has some additional information for the backing plate as one example.

It is best to have all of the bolts active as possible. You loose strength with a lower number of bolts. It is a factor of safety thing. The bolts have a semi-weird spacing as it is not a concentric circle.

I would also avoid marine brakes if possible; they are about double the cost of non-marine due to the anti-corrosion materials.
Click to expand...
Your spot on. I was measuring the wrong item. It is 5. The spacing is really odd. It makes for the complication of replacement. So this would not be a good idea to use as a way to install brakes ? **** it. I just want brakes..lol Thanks for the info.
 
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blybrook

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I will see if I still have an old backing plate this weekend (I think I tossed it during my last dump run though). IF I do still have it, I will send you a PM and mail it out to you for you to compare to your axle.

The spacing is odd; especially on the bottom of the hub. The link I posted earlier shows how it is a straight line at the bottom, with the others being in an arc.

If the backing plate doesn't align, then another axle would be required to get brakes; unless by some chance there's a backing plate that does work. The note above to utilize a torsion axle would work well with this light duty trailer as you wouldn't need a spring pack. Taking some additional measurements, possibly even building a cardboard template, then going to a local trailer shop may aid in getting you more information about what can be done before having to look at an axle swap and would possibly get you an answer faster than us looking at photos on the site.
 
Ripcord01

Ripcord01

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86m1028 said:
Why do you want brakes on such a small trailer ?
Click to expand...
that litle trailer once completed will weigh over 2,ooo lbs. althought my truck will and can handle the trai ler loaded I would just like a little bit more of insurence of stoppping and not placing so much wear on my truck brakes.
 
osut362

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i have a cow hauling trailer with axles that look like that. it has electric brakes on one of the axles. pull one of your hubs and take it to a place that builds trailers and have them match it up. you will need a backing plate and the hub/drum. i had to replace one of mine and it was no problem. i have 2500lb axles on the cow trailer, if your axle is rated for that you should not have a problem with finding the parts.
.......al
 
goldneagle

goldneagle

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osut362 said:
i have a cow hauling trailer with axles that look like that. it has electric brakes on one of the axles. pull one of your hubs and take it to a place that builds trailers and have them match it up. you will need a backing plate and the hub/drum. i had to replace one of mine and it was no problem. i have 2500lb axles on the cow trailer, if your axle is rated for that you should not have a problem with finding the parts.
.......al
Click to expand...
I agree, take it to a trailer dealer that sells part. He can match it up to it or order it for you.
 
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