• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Brake drum removal, m37

pwrwagonfire

New member
652
5
0
Location
Central Massachusetts
I had this EXACT problem this summer doing my brakes....its a PIA isn't it!

I used tons of liquid wrench and an impact driver on a couple, and drilled the rest and put easy-outs in them


good luck!
 

vtdeucedriver

Well-known member
2,523
38
48
Location
Vermont
Kroil is really good stuff but if you really want it easy go to your local Grainger and pick up a bottle of "mouse milk". I have always been lucky going a impact driver and the right bit!!! Just remember when going back together, dont be cheap with the anti-sieze:jumpin:
 

ranger.41

Active member
182
26
28
Location
Asheboro NC
I applied PB Blaster, let it sit for several days, then I then used the hand impact tool using it to tighten then to loosen. When that did not work I used the slotted bit, it is slightly tapered, in my 1/2 inch drive air impact gun, again loosening and then tightening. I broke one slotted bit and used the extra bit to break free. Also I don't recommend Stainless steel, it rounds easier and is harder to drill out. Buy the best quality replacement bolts NOT Chinese, and use Anti seize compound on them.
ranger.41
 

majorhitt

New member
227
0
0
Location
Dallas Pa.
like others said Kroil works fantastic. Also I use a 3/4 in. dia alum bar about 10 in. long and a large hammer. Several good sharp hits will loosen almost anything up. This helps and you don't damage the surface of the bolts.
 

ke6rwj

creating havoc one broken bolt at a time...
277
146
43
Location
Alabama
Here is my result.. i WAS able to remove them... Heres what i did....

1- spray PB Blaster
2 - hand impact driver
3 - smashed finger
4 - cuss LOUDLY, wife now angry woke the baby...
5 - slept... alone :-(

1 - pb blaster
2 - AIR HAMMER (baby already awake) with pointed bit to help move them...

THEY ARE OFF!!

they were already destroyed from previous attempts and owner, so im just replacing them...

thanks for all the help and sympathy...

see my other thread about relined brake shoes.. who can do this? local guy wants 150 per axle.. WTF!
 

STSCSS

New member
186
36
0
Location
Rochester/MN
Now just make sure to re tap the threads on the screw holes. Get the old rust out and use a bit of anti-sieze on the new scews. Have fun lining up the holes.
 

STSCSS

New member
186
36
0
Location
Rochester/MN
We have a mom and pop auto shop that was able to turn the drums. They had to jury rig a setup but I was able to get in spec drums. Like to see pics of the drum on the lathe roller
Thanks
 

70deuce

Active member
936
121
43
Location
Franktown, CO
Once I had mine off after alot of frustation I reinstalled hex (allen) head screws I got at Tu Value. Makes it much easier to remove than the slotted screws. Also applied anti-seize to the threads and the cone shaped contact surface before installing. Didn't note the size, just matched one to an old one.
 

Attachments

51willysm38

New member
8
0
1
Location
Texas
Brake drum removal

Try removing by using a Hammer Driver from Craftsman or Snap On. I've used this tool since the 70's and had great luck with it. All you do is get a 3/8 screwdriver bit and attach ti the driver and hit the driver with a large hammer and it will turn the screw.

I have been trying to get the three screws off the drums so they can be removed. I've tried wd40, liquid wrench, 2 bottles of propane to heat, large screwdrivers, hand impact screw driver, angled screw driver, air wrench, chisel .... All ive succeeded in doing is chewing them up. They are still stuck...

The rear ones came off after some effort, but these front ones are just misery....

Shall i just grind them out? or are there some other ideas out there?

End of my rope here....

Chris in Alabama..[/QUOTE]
 

51willysm38

New member
8
0
1
Location
Texas
Brake drum removal

I have been trying to get the three screws off the drums so they can be removed. I've tried wd40, liquid wrench, 2 bottles of propane to heat, large screwdrivers, hand impact screw driver, angled screw driver, air wrench, chisel .... All ive succeeded in doing is chewing them up. They are still stuck...

The rear ones came off after some effort, but these front ones are just misery....

Shall i just grind them out? or are there some other ideas out there?

End of my rope here....

Chris in Alabama..[/QUOTE]
 

Roller

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
191
58
28
Location
North Lake, WI
There is no need to remove the three screws, take off the drum and hub as an assembly. If you insist on removing the three screws weld a nut on the flathead screw head and turn it out. Weld in the inside of the nut to the face of the screw. The heat from welding and the additional grip of having a hex nut attached will loosen the screws.

Frank
 

51willysm38

New member
8
0
1
Location
Texas
Got it off but would you believe that I had 10 drums and not one would adjust for the new .030 oversize brakes. What would be the chances of that happening?
 

jmassenga

Member
58
1
6
Location
AK
I've had good luck using a drag link socket. Fits the slot nice and tight and engages the entire width.

And lots of antisieze on reassembly.
 

mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,637
381
83
Location
Spring Branch, TX
After 2.5 years owning it I finally got around to working on the wife's M37 this weekend. I went through this whole thread knowing that I was going to have trouble getting the drums off so figured I better get all the ideas first.

Lt rear came off with NO problem what so ever. I couldn't believe how handy the bolts pushing the drum off worked. I was happy to see that both the drum and shoes were in good shape.

Rt rear started with a snag. The lug nuts were rusted on. I had to use some Kroil and then hook the Robotool up to the deuce to break them free. That's when I started worrying about the slotted bolts on that side. I shot them with some more Kroil and let it sit for a while. The first 2 were tough but finally broke free. Number 3 didn't want to budge though. Using some ideas from the thread I took a drift and whacked the slot on one side. After a couple of swings it looked like it was moving so I tried the screw driver again and off it came. I also discovered the Robotool is good for resetting the drum. Put the lug nuts back on and zip them down and it'll draw the drum back down against the hub nicely.

Lt front had same issue with one bolt and used same method to get it off.

Now I'm at the big problem so far. The lt front shoes are frozen to the drum. I turned the cam locks all the way down but no help. Anyone have an easy solution for getting them loose?
 
Last edited:

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Big hammer on the drum to try and break it loose Mark. Maybe undo the hose and bolts for the wheel cylinder, grind off the back of the shoe tie downs and let it all come off together.
 

mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,637
381
83
Location
Spring Branch, TX
Big hammer on the drum to try and break it loose Mark. Maybe undo the hose and bolts for the wheel cylinder, grind off the back of the shoe tie downs and let it all come off together.
Holy Cow! Just finished an email to you and here you've already posted the answer.

Hammer didn't work as I already tried that. I'll try the other suggestions in the morning.

Thanks!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks