• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Brake Help

mattg2448

New member
328
4
0
Location
Port Huron, Michigan
Ok, so i searched a little and didn't find any thing. What would be a good way to diagnose a brake system on a M35A2, I am trying to get my fathers truck on the road for Friday's Cruise Night and Im having a little issue.. The brakes are to the floor, opened the master cylinder and added fluid, put on the cap, pump it a couple times, same, to the floor. I'm assuming there may be a leak somewhere but where would be a good place to start?
 
Last edited:

mattg2448

New member
328
4
0
Location
Port Huron, Michigan
Ok, not trying to sound stupid, but I dont know spit about any thing.. Hahah! I am starting to understand all this brake stuff, but heres the question... When bleeding brakes, well.. how do ya do that? :oops: Hahahhaha Do i just crack the line at the brake backing plate? Crack it or take it off? I am building the pressure bleeder! So hopefully i can get er done by tomorrow!
 

waayfast

Active member
814
106
43
Location
Lake Fork,Idaho
Ok, not trying to sound stupid, but I dont know spit about any thing.. Hahah! I am starting to understand all this brake stuff, but heres the question... When bleeding brakes, well.. how do ya do that? :oops: Hahahhaha Do i just crack the line at the brake backing plate? Crack it or take it off? I am building the pressure bleeder! So hopefully i can get er done by tomorrow!

Oh, yes you do know spit about something!! You know to ask for help on a very important (THE most important!)and complicated system on a 13,000 pound chunk of iron---the freakin' brakes!!!

Thank you for trying to help and thank you for learning this important job and not trying to bluff/guess your way into a train wreck.

I will let the more qualified people explain the procedure (I don't communicate well on the computer) but wanted to let you know you are doing the right thing![thumbzup]
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

Active member
1,472
23
38
Location
Waukesha, WI
Matt,

DOT is anything but cheap. I usually try to reclaim what I can with an empty DOT 5 bottle and a 3/8 OD hose on the bleeder. If it's got debry in it though don't even think of trying to reuse it.

When bleeding the brakes here is how I was taught to do it:
Start with the bleeder on the air pack.
Then move to the right rear wheel, then left rear...ect. You always start with the wheel furthest away from the air pack and move your way closer. Leave the bleeder open for a while. A few seconds and you have some fluid coming out means nothing. By using clear tubing off the bleeder you can actually see the small air bubble coming out of the bleeder. Wait until there are no more bubbles and it's done. Also don't fear when the new DOT 5 coming out of the bleeder is yellowish and the new fluid is purple. The color goes away after the fluid heats up, or so I'm told. If at first it is yellow and then comes out purple after having the bleeder open for a while, you know you have fresh fluid in the entire line.

If after doing all of this the brakes still do not work, then I would start to consider the air pack itself. When the air pack goes bad if it is still vented in a common vent line with the fuel tank and MC it will usually pump brake fluid out of the slobber tube. If you see that coming out of there now, don't even waste the time bleeding the brakes until you have rebuilt the air pack.

Hope this helps.
 

Mike929

Member
820
22
18
Location
DFW, Tx
Wooh hooo!!! It worked! Thank you kenny for the tips! It worked flawlessly! After bleeding, it had full brakes! Im very happy with this setup!
To expand on this thread I picked up my truck today from GL. The brakes went to the floor when pumped as described above.

I checked the MC and the reservoir was empty, so I put almost an entire quart of Dot 5 in it and closed it up.

Pumped the brakes some and they got better and better until I got to the point that the first pump went almost to the floor, but the second would hold hard and stay. So I would release and wait a bit and sure enough the first one would go almost to the floor, but the second one was firm and would hold as long as I kept pressure on it. (no movement toward the floor and engaged all the brakes)

I have the USAF version with the dual circuit if that makes a difference. I assumed the problem was in the master cylinder and at minimum I have a leak in one of the connections, or the reservoir itself (i.e., the lose of the fluid in the first place.)

All wheel are dry and no sign of brake fluid. We did have some leaking at the MC, but I over filled a bit, so I don't know how much is my mistake and how much of it could have possibly come from a leak.

Any advice would be appreciated. (I will give a recover report tomorrow after I am better rested. It has been a long day getting the truck back to my brothers and it is there until I can bring the brakes to 100%) :(
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

Active member
1,472
23
38
Location
Waukesha, WI
The last truck I picked up, single circuit brakes, did about the same. I was able to determine it was the airpack by the fact it was spitting brake fluid from the slobber tube. That was an easy way to tell because of how the vents were set up at one time. With your truck I'm not sure how to tell for sure it's an air pack, but that would be a guess of mine.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks