Brake Temp Fix Advice

[Icenine]

I am a proud new owner of M35, which is currently brakeless, pedal goes straight to the floor. I bought it from a neighbor of mine, half mile away. I need to get it from his house to mine. The easy way is a tow company and shelling out $$$. I have not done much on it, poked around. The passenger front wheel has the tale tell signs of a leaking wheel cylinder. I have read a number of posts about rebuilding it. But I would rather take that task on next to my shop, with my tools, making a mess in my yard. Plus from what I have read, it seems if I am rebuilding one, I might as well rebuild them all.

Anyway, do you think it is possible to un-connect the brake line, right below the bleeder. Cap the line off. Bleed the remaining wheels. Once I have a brake pedal that does not go to the floor, idle the half mile (with a slight grade) into my yard, parking it on flat ground for correct rebuild, repair, and full brakes?

 

[Icenine]

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have done similar trail mods to get me back to my tools for a proper fix. If you are not far from home, run in low range and be extra careful, go for it.

 

[frank8003]

It has been done with one inverted flare plug on one rear tandem. That was with a known good brakes on all the other wheels and good driveline drum brake. Master and airpak were known good. A few hours of tests in flat open parking lot proved it worked. That said, the liability aspect/risk is great.
Note the power of 7 tons of rolling steel.

 

[98G]

GPS can't find your location. I have no idea where Helotes is.

I'll be in TX in a couple of weeks. I'll bring a towbar and we can move it without risk of life or limb...

The catch is I don't want to drive way off my planned route.

Let me know

 

[Valence]

Honestly, to me, that looks like a front inner-axle oil seal leak (which I have found to be much more common), not a blown wheel cylinder. I'd check the fluid level in the master cylinder, but the master cylinder probably is the root failure. Or, if the park brake works, idle it home and use the park brake to stop. I do agree with what you've read, you should rebuild all 6 wheel cylinders regardless and you can check and repack the bearings and replace oil seals while you're in there.

 

[Recovry4x4]

The brake line attaches to the wheel cylinder via a banjo bolt and fitting. A simple bolt and 2 washers crushing the existing copper washers could take that brake out of the equation. That wheel would still need to be bled but you just loosen the bolt.

With all that said I would wager that filling the master and a thorough bleeding will suffice to get you home. Search for the R4x bleeder thread here and see how easy and cheap a power bleeder can be.

Low range and a low gear could work in a pinch too. If you pull the fuel shutoff while in a super low gear, the truck will grind to a halt.

 

[Icenine]

98G

That is an awesome offer! Speaks volumes to this community.
Helotes is the part of north central/north western area of San Antonio. Honestly, off the beaten path even if traveling through S.A. north south or east west.

 

[Icenine]

Honestly, to me, that looks like a front inner-axle oil seal leak (which I have found to be much more common), not a blown wheel cylinder. I'd check the fluid level in the master cylinder, but the master cylinder probably is the root failure. Or, if the park brake works, idle it home and use the park brake to stop. I do agree with what you've read, you should rebuild all 6 wheel cylinders regardless and you can check and repack the bearings and replace oil seals while you're in there.

I have not worked on it. Former owner says brake pedal goes to the floor, I believe he was adding brake fluid. I crawled underneath, I see no other leaks. There was nothing on the cement (dry) or around the MC. The former owner also thought it was a rear wheel issue with the brake, but again all those were dry as well.

Side note, looks like I might need to research replacing front axle oil seal. Will it be obvious once I tear into it?

 

[98G]

I have not worked on it. Former owner says brake pedal goes to the floor, I believe he was adding brake fluid. I crawled underneath, I see no other leaks. There was nothing on the cement (dry) or around the MC. The former owner also thought it was a rear wheel issue with the brake, but again all those were dry as well.

Side note, looks like I might need to research replacing front axle oil seal. Will it be obvious once I tear into it?

Yeah, it should be pretty straightforward once you get into it. The little cork things need to be retained. ...

I don't know what kind of terrain/traffic you have to traverse, but I'd think a walking speed would be do-able just about anywhere. Take a buddy and some chocks, and perform a rapid chocking maneuver when stopping is desired....

 

[Icenine]

Update: I built a power bleeder using the 'Deuce Power Bleeder R4x4 Style'. I was using the 'newer' style MC caps. My Deuce is 1972 Army? The MC cap is the small metal round one. The good news, the power bleeder and a funnel helped my wife keep the MC full while I bleed the brakes! I have brakes, the pedel goes about half way before firm. I figure that is good enough to idle the half mile. All the bleeders turned except both the front wheels bleeders are plugged.

It looks like someone put Dot 3 in the system because when I look at my mason jar collector from bleeding the brakes, there is a clear line between the nice clean purple Dot 5 and the black Dot 3 at the bottom. I put in almost a half gallon of the Dot 5. Still cheaper then towing it the half mile. It also sounded like the right rear was the only brakes that I could hear moving while bleeding. I am not sure if that one is out of adjustment or what yet. I plan on replacing all the brake lines (buidling my own lines from another post - this site is AWESOME!), rebuilding all the wheel cylinders, and rebuild the MC to be sure everything is up to the job. Anyone know what the spring on the brake line is suppose to attach?

Now the Deuce will not start. I think it is a weak battery. One tests at 12v the other at 6v. I put the 12v on a charger for about four hours. Then at least I could hear the fuel pump clicking. Now the 6v one is on charger overnight (7pm-to noon tomorrow). If it doesn't take a charge, I will buy a new battery tomorrow.

Again, thank you to all for the help and guidence.

 

[Icenine]

 

[gimpyrobb]

I don't know that I would waste time with a 6v battery. You might be better off getting 2 new ones as a new one and an old will drain each-other.

 

[Icenine]

Got both batteries up to 12v, for a total slightly over 24v. Hear what I assume is the fuel pump, buzzers in the truck but when going to start. Nothing.

Small wires on starter button a little loose. Tested volts at on the starter celenoid were the battery cable connect. Readings all over the place, much higher and much lower.

Pulled the batteries and battery cables to take for free testing. If that doesn't work, nexf up, pull the starter to have both celenoid and starter tested.

I'm loving this beast, feel like I'm just starting to get to know her.

 

[texas30cal]

Voltage doesn't tell the story, get them load tested to be sure they are up to the task. A "normal" starter and solenoid are easy to diagnose, but most of these (not all I don't think) also have a relay on the side of the block above the starter, I haven't got into mine yet so I can't tell you how it works but I'm sure the info is here somewhere. First get batts load tested and clean/grease all connections at batteries, ground cables, relay, and starter/solenoid.

 

[nukem]

Half mile from point a to point b with no brakes?

Low range ? I drive old tractors with no brakes?

 

[snowtrac nome]

hey if you are running the fuel pump you can always push start it.

 

[Eliteweapons]

hey if you are running the fuel pump you can always push start it.

I just got a picture in my head of 3 football teams trying to push an m35 lol.

 

[Valence]

Anyone know what the spring on the brake line is suppose to attach?
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=673979&d=1491278336

That spring should attach to a thin, flat piece of metal retained one of the bolts on top of the king-pin plate. It's just to allow the brake line to move when steering, but to keep it away from quickly rubbing through on the tire, getting smashed by the steering stop bolt, or other hazards.

 

[Icenine]

Texas30cal was correct. Had the batteries tested, both bad. I surprised the auto parts store, they never had someone so happy to hear about bad batteries. Two new 12v and I was out the door.

Spent the morning fabricating battery tie downs. Had to torch apart square tubing as I am current out of angle iron. Weld it up, looks a bit rough as I'm a grinder then welder. It is still bare metal, I will post pictures once rattle can pretty. Cleaned up all the cables ends. Headed over to the Deuce with an ever growing tool box.

Reattached a loose wire on the starter button. Tightened a fitting on top of the master cyclinder, originally thought it was a over flow, but looking closer fits into a tee fitting on the opposite end from the master cyclinder. Reinstalled all the battery cables, hardest part was a 7/16 bolt holding cable wire hanger for the battery cable to the starter and hanger for another power cable, guessing for that cabs electronics. Bit tight to get socket on, wrenching barely turning the bolt.

By this time the wife and youngest son show up to see how's it going, and give moral support. The moment of truth, climbed up in the cab, pushed the fuel pump knob in, flip the it on, pushed the button. She turns over! And over. And still no start. Shut it down. Open the hood, to poke around and see what's up. Have the wife jump up into the cab, have her push in the fuel pump, cable moves but not the shaft. A couple gentle taps, it slides in.

Jump down, have the youngest boy climb down off the front, climb back in the cab. Push the starter button and bam she fires right up. Let her warm up, close the hood, air presssure alarms turn off. Walk around her, no leaking brakes, no leaking anything. Pulled the wheel chucks. She sounds wonderful, good oil pressure. Pulled forward to test the brakes, moment of truth, she stop with pedal 2/3 travel to the floor. Good enough for me.

Drove it home, half mile. Brakes held, engine is barely warm...time for a joy ride around the neighborhood. Family piles in the cab and we cruise around 3 miles. This thing is awesome!!! Need to practice shifting. I drove a larger Volvo haul truck for six months in the Colorado mountains years ago. The Deuce, is so much more fun to drive!! It is real iron.

She is a 1972 Army, I was born in 71. I feel like I've had a pile of miles on my body, makes me wonder what roads she has traveled. This truck has more to tell me, wish she would share some of her history.