Brakes.. oh my...

[Primussucks]

ECO hub install.. Turned into CTIS and bearing seals.. Turned into brakes....

What a surprise I found.

Looking like Private Parts skipped the LO chapter!?

Whats the best source for components? Lots of broken springs...
Rust everywhere... Whats the best way to determine if the 'guts' of the canister are still good?

I'm shocked it still stopped.. The plungers were frozen.. i had to PBblast and wiggle out with slip joint pliers. The adjustable ones had to be encouraged out with a drift and hammer.

 

[Keith Knight]

Oh my…..that looks horrible. Unfortunately I don’t have any experience with these. I can only say clean and remove all the rust and crud. Then start evaluating each piece.

 

[Primussucks]

This is a great resource and what I’m following.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Holy crap! That's much worse than what I've pulled apart so far (not done with all wheels yet) on my 2008. But all my seals were trash and I was beginning to have similar issues creeping in.

 

[Ronmar]

Wow, thats terrible!

 

[Primussucks]

I'm guessing new brake chambers, or are these rebuildable?

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I would probably replace those if I could get them. Finding replacements is the trick. If you can, get the upgraded A1R/A1P2 cans. Larger diaphragms. They brake AWESOME.

 

[Primussucks]

I would probably replace those if I could get them. Finding replacements is the trick. If you can, get the upgraded A1R/A1P2 cans. Larger diaphragms. They brake AWESOME.

Which ones @GeneralDisorder ?

I have an A1R now... I assume they are the ones you are referring to?
I haven't got the front yet, looking like the 4 rear ones are all about the same condition...

I know i shouldn't take apart the parking brake side (spring goes boom). What about the other side of the canister? Wondering if I can remove that half... clean it up, check the diaphragm, etc.

I'm new to the LTMV parts market. I know where I'm NOT buying the parts... Does anyone have a suggestion on who might have these canisters? ebay coming up short, or something that looks different then what I've got. I can find the plunger kit on ebay, but not the canister itself.

Open to suggestions... Also open to 'used' if someone has some that are in decent shape.

Thanks.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Yeah you're going to have a real fun time trying to find the A1R cans. I would go to an air brake shop and show them what you have and see if they can match something up. Unfortunately, outside the military, wedge brakes have become a thing of the past and are considered dinosaur tech. The military uses them because they don't like the S-cam stuff with all it's exposed linkages and crap hanging off the brake assemblies. Wedge brakes are more internal and less crap to get snagged up off-road. If there's no one around you that's an expert - call these guys. They know everything about air brake systems:

Brake Systems Inc. - Manufacturers of Blue Ox Exhaust Brakes

BRAKE SYSTEMS INC. has 40 years of experience Manufacturing, Remanufacturing and Distributing quality brake components. We are ISO 9001:2008 certified. We specialize in Brake and Throttle Components, Electronic Throttle Controls, Exhaust Brakes, Blue Ox Exhaust Brakes, Air Shifters, Air...

www.brakesystemsinc.com

You can disassemble the parking brake just make sure you cage it first and then don't stand in the blast zone while working on it. It's not rocket surgery.

And while you are going though all this stuff - swap to the older A0/A1 pedal assembly and treadle valve. It really supercharges your brakes. More leverage:

A1R brake pedal valve up(down)grade.

Those of you who have not driven an A1R or A1P2 probably will not understand this post. The C7 trucks (serial #100,001+) including both A1R and A1P2 have a different air brake pedal valve and if you have driven A0, A1, and A1R you may have noticed that the A1R trucks seem to have a brake pedal...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[Keith Knight]

I wonder who is buying all the crashed / parts trucks from govplanet. Some must be parting these trucks out.
Actually reach out to Superman on this forum he usually has a couple parts trucks.

 

[Primussucks]

I would probably replace those if I could get them. Finding replacements is the trick. If you can, get the upgraded A1R/A1P2 cans. Larger diaphragms. They brake AWESOME.

The ones that are on that came off my truck, 07 a1r, look like this.


The ones I find on eBay are more like this. A different style. I definitely don't want to downgrade.
Thanks.

MRAP, HIMARS, FMTV, LMTV H20-3276L-12 VACUUM BRAKE CHAMBER 2530-01-363-8150 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MRAP, HIMARS, FMTV, LMTV H20-3276L-12 VACUUM BRAKE CHAMBER 2530-01-363-8150 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Primussucks]

Update..
I gathered all the parts and got everything back together..

I'm onto the adjusting the brake shoes part.

Reading the ETM and watching and rewatching Endless Adventures youtube video.

On the A1R..we have these fancy ABS wheel sensors...On the rear canister, the ABS sensor is in the way of the brake adjustment tool.
The ETM doesn't mention anything about it, or removing it in the "adjusting" procedure.
I need to go look again, but how does that sensor come off?

2nd question...
The instructions in the ETM are not clear... So hoping to get a better understanding of the procedure.

ETM says:
1. uncage brakes
2. pressurize air system
3. release service air brake
4. apply and release brake pedal
5. turn drum
.
.
8. adjust brake adjusting screw until the drum does not spin
9. uncage brakes
10. pump brakes again.

step 1 and 9 don't make sense... i mean, it's clear what they say.. but step 9 can't be done if step 1 was already done.. they are already uncaged...
and the procedure doesn't say anything recaging, etc for the front canister?

What's the proper procedure here?

Thanks

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Just get the adjusters working and get them close to where they were before you took it apart - eyeball the piston exposure and put them back similarly. Then go drive the truck and mash on the brakes harder and harder about 15-20 times. The adjusters will sort it out for you. Be gentle at first with the pedal pressure - you might feel the truck brake steering a little but my experience has been that if you take a picture of the piston exposure and set it close the adjusters will take care of everything within about a mile or two of driving and working the brakes.

If you are using new shoes - then you'll have to use the feeler gauge method but don't be too worried about it. Just get it close and let the adjusters do the the job for you. They actually work very well.

All brake work including adjusting will be done with the rear cans caged.

Front cans have no parking brake so they have no springs to cage.

 

[canadacountry]

he meant it in comical jest but a trucker humour book I have had the driver basically mentioned "whats this about air supply? I'm paid to go, not to stop! well ok..famous last words there.."

but yeah to be honest I've heard a few small stories about any sort of vehicles (non-military car, military truck, rail locomotive, etc you take your pick) that somehow had to be carefully stopped with no normal brakes functioning at all in the first place ... so hmm yeah .. say no more?

anyhow @Primussucks don't mind me, hope you get that vehicle there back into normal orders on everything you know

 

[Primussucks]

Well....I went 6 for 6 on rusted out wedge springs. The two front wedge assemblies were also rusted and broke while unscrewing the chambers.

Unfortunately, The 24P does not list a part number for the front brake wedge assembly. (It is listed as part #5 for the rear, but obviously different).

Does anyone have a source, or part number for the front wedge assembly? Or a couple donors?

What about that rubber boot inside the canister? My type16 diaphram looks to be in good order, but the expandable one could be replaced.

On the plus side.. the rest of the hub re-sealing went smoothly. I did find a bad CTIS seal, oil was clearly making its way between seals.

 

[Primussucks]

I think i solved the mystery of the front brake wedge.
Upon further review... it looks like the fronts use the same wedge assembly as the rears. 24P doesn't mention it. Appendix H hints at it.. Dissaseembly seems to confirm, that it is the same wedge as the rears, just slips into a yoke.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

2530-01-361-3966, E53276P16 - those are the canisters.

Yes the wedges are the same.