breaking free stuck lug nuts

[CMPPhil]

Two questions many answers

Hi

In rereading this thread I realized that there are really TWO questions which present different problems.
1. I'm on the side of the road can't get lug nuts off?
2. Truck is parked in the shop and the lug nuts are not yielding to my normal methods?
My comment was based on the truck being safely parked in the shop. At my age I've got the local heavy truck tire service in my phone, heck I'm going to need them to lift tire out of truck anyway.
Cheers Phil

 

[Floridianson]

Yeah at home I would just use the compressor since I have a very nice 1" impact that will take any nut off or break the stud. On the road I have the military breaker and a "Tank track" torque multiplier that will go up to 5,000 ft Ibs. If that doesn't break it loose I'm leaving it !

The only problem I have with the 1" at my age is it's weight and I make my son do the tires when he is around. On the road a four way or torque multiplier is the way to go. Then there is the phone to the road service and we just sit and watch someone else work for a price. I will say my four way and cheater has never let me down just makes me sweat.

 

[aleigh]

The only problem I have with the 1" at my age is it's weight and I make my son do the tires when he is around. On the road a four way or torque multiplier is the way to go. Then there is the phone to the road service and we just sit and watch someone else work for a price. I will say my four way and cheater has never let me down just makes me sweat.

Funny enough that's how I learned about the Miluakee. First time I got a flat with the LMTV I just called a guy to change it, partly because I wanted to see how it was done. And he gets out the little red drill and goes "people always laugh when I get this out...". Then he had it done in no-time with a couple of pieces of lumber and a bottle jack.

 

[Buffalobwana]

Great idea!!! I’ll need to remember that.

In the bush, I have used a 4 way bar and stacked up something to hold up the opposite end of the 4 way bar, and then stood/jumped on the appropriate side. Without the support on the other side it would slip off.

Just another hint. Although, yours is way cooler!

 

[rustystud]

The only problem I have with the 1" at my age is it's weight and I make my son do the tires when he is around. On the road a four way or torque multiplier is the way to go. Then there is the phone to the road service and we just sit and watch someone else work for a price. I will say my four way and cheater has never let me down just makes me sweat.

I know that 1" impact weighs a lot. Especially after taking a couple of tires off ! I've learned to rest the unit on my thigh. Though that gets pretty tiring also now a days. That's why I'm liking the new 3/4" Milwaukee Impact Wrench. The problem with the road service is the tires usually go out when your stuck in the back woods miles from civilization ! Your pretty much on your own then.

 

[lindsey97]

Read all 9 pages of this thread. Got me interested in the Milwaukee fuel series of tools. Have seen a lot of 1/2" fuel impacts in use and everyone raves about them.

Couple years ago, I bought a Dewalt 1/2" impact and a Dewalt cordless 18 volt grease gun, since I already had Dewalt 18 volt tools. I have used and enjoyed my Dewalt 18 volt stuff for many years, out on the farm and on the jobsite. Cordless greasegun is priceless and I really used it with my machinery.

I want something that is cordless, and will remove/install lug nuts on our military trucks and my dump trucks when in a pinch on the side of the road.

So I looked up specs on the Milwaukee 2863, which is a 1/2" drive impact 18 volt cordless. The 2863 has 1000 ftlbs. of fastening torque, and 1400 ftlbs. of loosening.

Then I found specs on the Milwaukee 2864, which is a 3/4" drive impact 18 volt cordless. The 2864 has 1200 ftlbs. of fastening torque, and 1500 ftlbs. of loosening.

I own a 1" air impact, and a 3/4" compact impact, and am very impressed with these numbers. My Dewalt 18 volt DW059H impact that I currently own has 300 ftlbs.

Can't wait to try one of these 3/4" Milwaukees out on a truck rim. Watched a video on YouTube and they seem to work great.

Also watched another video on YouTube, Milwaukee a has PROTOTYPE 1" IMPACT coming out. Holy Schnikes!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[rustystud]

Read all 9 pages of this thread. Got me interested in the Milwaukee fuel series of tools. Have seen a lot of 1/2" fuel impacts in use and everyone raves about them.

Couple years ago, I bought a Dewalt 1/2" impact and a Dewalt cordless 18 volt grease gun, since I already had Dewalt 18 volt tools. I have used and enjoyed my Dewalt 18 volt stuff for many years, out on the farm and on the jobsite. Cordless greasegun is priceless and I really used it with my machinery.

I want something that is cordless, and will remove/install lug nuts on our military trucks and my dump trucks when in a pinch on the side of the road.

So I looked up specs on the Milwaukee 2863, which is a 1/2" drive impact 18 volt cordless. The 2863 has 1000 ftlbs. of fastening torque, and 1400 ftlbs. of loosening.

Then I found specs on the Milwaukee 2864, which is a 3/4" drive impact 18 volt cordless. The 2864 has 1200 ftlbs. of fastening torque, and 1500 ftlbs. of loosening.

I own a 1" air impact, and a 3/4" compact impact, and am very impressed with these numbers. My Dewalt 18 volt DW059H impact that I currently own has 300 ftlbs.

Can't wait to try one of these 3/4" Milwaukees out on a truck rim. Watched a video on YouTube and they seem to work great.

Also watched another video on YouTube, Milwaukee a has PROTOTYPE 1" IMPACT coming out. Holy Schnikes!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have the 1/2" and the 3/4" Milwaukee's right now. I love them. Now if they do come out with a 1" impact I'm buying that too !
Of course on the Deuce I've set it up now so that I'm able to run my 1" impact from my spare 30 gallon air tank with 3/4" air-hose. It only gives me 5 seconds at 2,000 ft Ibs , but in five seconds I can rip the lug nuts off of any truck. One at a time that is.

 

[Buffalobwana]

I bought the DeWalt 20 volt Max XR Lithium ion 1/2" DCF889 and I'm very happy with it. I take it with me on road trips for flats on pickups and trailers. Just makes it a lot easier. They advertise 1200 ft-lbs break away and 700 ft-lbs tightening strength. Don't know why you would do that to your lug nuts though! Battery life is very impressive. I have only charged it a couple of times in the year since I bought it. I don't use it all the time, but it really goes a long way on a charge.

I'm sure Milwaukee is pretty awesome. I'll have to look into that one too.

I also carry a bottle of 50:50 mix of ATF and Acetone to squirt on the lugs. Best penetrating oil I have ever found. Better and cheaper than Kroil.

 

[rustystud]

I bought the DeWalt 20 volt Max XR Lithium ion 1/2" DCF889 and I'm very happy with it. I take it with me on road trips for flats on pickups and trailers. Just makes it a lot easier. They advertise 1200 ft-lbs break away and 700 ft-lbs tightening strength. Don't know why you would do that to your lug nuts though! Battery life is very impressive. I have only charged it a couple of times in the year since I bought it. I don't use it all the time, but it really goes a long way on a charge.

I'm sure Milwaukee is pretty awesome. I'll have to look into that one too.

I also carry a bottle of 50:50 mix of ATF and Acetone to squirt on the lugs. Best penetrating oil I have ever found. Better and cheaper than Kroil.

I know this sets people off but, I have taken off all my lug nuts and cleaned up the threads and reinstalled them using "Anti-Seize" . Now they come off like their suppose to. Just what I do, your mileage might vary.

 

[Welder1]

I know this sets people off but, I have taken off all my lug nuts and cleaned up the threads and reinstalled them using "Anti-Seize" . Now they come off like their suppose to. Just what I do, your mileage might vary.

Rusty,

I have always used anti seize on my lugs. I never have had any issues. On cars I use torque sticks to tighten the lugs. Putting lugs on dry can lead to thread galling. I know that putting a lubricant on a threaded fastener changes to torque tension relationship but I think it’s the right way to do it.


Eddie

 

[Buffalobwana]

Rustystud,

How dare you be prepared!

Its not that hard to look up the torque specs for dry and lubed threads, and just tighten accordingly. Sounds reasonable to me.

 

[Floridianson]

I know this sets people off but, I have taken off all my lug nuts and cleaned up the threads and reinstalled them using "Anti-Seize" . Now they come off like their suppose to. Just what I do, your mileage might vary.

I don't think posting your opinion sets some off only when you go calling names like all you blow hards listen to me.
We share we learn then as it is always said it's your truck do what you think is best and safe.
I would be willing to bet most here have not spent 500/ 600 bucks for the torque wrench that goes to 600 foot pounds and reverseable.
I never worried about it that much with the Deuces and 5 tons that I just drove around town not loaded. I just used maybe a drop of oil and used the four way with cheater bar. Now that I am running the roads and going to other states with the 915A2 and 373 trailer grossing 40k I took the plunge. Bought the nice torque wrench and set the fronts at 500 and the rears at 500 thimble and outer nut 450. I just used a couple of drops of oil on install. I then used a light coat of rustoleum to make it look good and cover the threads. From what I have done seems like the trucks that have sat for 20 years the trouble is breaking them loose for the first time after all that time. Seems like when I use my cheater / four way it's the one first crack that breaks them loose then the nut come off easy. I believe after long time the nut head where it makes contact with the rim rust/welds to each other and breaking it loose is the hard part. Just my .02

 

[rustystud]

I don't think posting your opinion sets some off only when you go calling names like all you blow hards listen to me.
We share we learn then as it is always said it's your truck do what you think is best and safe.
I would be willing to bet most here have not spent 500/ 600 bucks for the torque wrench that goes to 600 foot pounds and reverseable.
I never worried about it that much with the Deuces and 5 tons that I just drove around town not loaded. I just used maybe a drop of oil and used the four way with cheater bar. Now that I am running the roads and going to other states with the 915A2 and 373 trailer grossing 40k I took the plunge. Bought the nice torque wrench and set the fronts at 500 and the rears at 500 thimble and outer nut 450. I just used a couple of drops of oil on install. I then used a light coat of rustoleum to make it look good and cover the threads. From what I have done seems like the trucks that have sat for 20 years the trouble is breaking them loose for the first time after all that time. Seems like when I use my cheater / four way it's the one first crack that breaks them loose then the nut come off easy. I believe after long time the nut head where it makes contact with the rim rust/welds to each other and breaking it loose is the hard part. Just my .02

First off you would have lost that bet to me. The first two pictures show some of my Snap-On torque wrenchs. They go from 1 oz to 600 ft Ibs. The third picture shows some of my air impact guns. I suppose I could gather together my torque multiplier's for another picture, and my electric impact guns.
Secondly Floridianson, this is the second time this year you have said I call people names. I have never called anyone names here. I have called people out on their ignorance regarding mechanical knowledge. If you say your an expert then you better be an expert. I have never called anyone names though.

 

[Floridianson]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...uds-and-Anti-Seize/page5&highlight=Anti-seize
Post #45 I took that as anyone who disagreed with you. Not trying to pick a fight again just saying opinions are always welcome attitude is left at the door.

 

[Hummermark]

Hi do any of you guys have or use a 2stroke petrol Impact inch drive gun?
have found it very useful and can use anywhere not had a lug nut it could not undo.
did shatter a made in China 36mm socket though whilst trying.
the railroad use them in the uk.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Gas powered impact: https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/491385009321316115/

Holy sh** that looks like a serious piece of machinery. STIHL makes them with what looks like one of their larger chain saw engines on top.

 

[Day Tripper]

View attachment 741720View attachment 741719View attachment 741721




I guess my pliers and screw driver won't do the trick. The replacement cost of your tools is probably worth more than the value of my deuce. I guess that is why I have friends.

 

[rustystud]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...uds-and-Anti-Seize/page5&highlight=Anti-seize
Post #45 I took that as anyone who disagreed with you. Not trying to pick a fight again just saying opinions are always welcome attitude is left at the door.

No. That comment was for those who where saying I didn't know what I was talking about ie: no experience. I believe I do have experience here. But I never called anyone out and said they where some "fill in the insult here" .

 

[rustystud]

View attachment 741720View attachment 741719View attachment 741721




I guess my pliers and screw driver won't do the trick. The replacement cost of your tools is probably worth more than the value of my deuce. I guess that is why I have friends.

The replacement cost of all my tools would buy my house. No kidding. Last time I had to itemize my tools for insurance was over 10 years ago and they where worth over $300,000.00 . I've added some since then. When I first got into the trade I payed the "Snap-On" man $750.00 month for 15 years. That's not counting the Mac Dealer or the Matco Dealer or the Cornwall Dealer or the other two who came by every week. Then I started buying whole sets like my 3/4" socket set. For the last 42 years I averaged paying out $600.00 a month on tools. There where many others who made me look like a "light weight" in comparison to how much they would spend each month. I knew this one guy who had a $1000.00 a month bill with the Snap-On man. I didn't feel so bad paying my $600.00 a month bill after learning that.
Of course what is really annoying is that my tools are not worth the amount I payed for them. I could only sell them for about a 1/4 their value if I was lucky !

 

[cucvmule]

Galling threads ruins studs and nuts. Their are great forces at work. My own process is to remove any debris in the threads and a light drop of lubricant before removal, then place nuts on stud board as they are removed and place back on same studs without any further lubricant. Any that are damaged are replaced.

Large studs, nuts on wheels are designed to be used over to be economical. Otherwise the manufacturer will recommend replacement as has been said, once the force of torque has been applied, stretch has happened and to get the same repetitive result a new set of hardware is needed.

I will add that over torque will add more undesired stress to the distorted hub and the wheel rim, stress cracking either.

So manuals do serve a purpose more for critical information than a coffee cup coaster. Duration of the parts may need to have values changed to provide a higher safety margin.