Breaking Spring Brake tubes

[Jbulach]

If you can't find any newer mounts, you could cap as much of one side of yours as you can with 1/8 or 3/16 plate, would likely help eliminate a lot of flex...

 

[Csm Davis]

These are what I have seen on almost every truck we have had, on all positions

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[simp5782]

These are what I have seen on almost every truck we have had, on all positions

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Thats what i have. The top bend is what broke.

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[profo]

Het Simp,
I just realized your U-bolt plates are completely different than my A2, kind of hard to tell by the pictures but it looks like yours may allow more flex

. I wonder if was a revision due to your problem?

that exactly what I was thinking your ubolt clamps arent like mine at all mine are exactly like these pictures!

 

[simp5782]

So here is my plan of action to fix this issue. I have a good 5 ton bogie sitting around. I am going to swap the whole unit out. Then Profo is making me 8 of the A2 brackets. I am thinking is applying it to the can side like they are normally and one to the inside bolt that holds the spring stop plate on. that way it has dual support and maybe not a repeat of the problem. OR I will add the original mounting tabs to the outside at their original angle which is inside the mounting area of the Ubolt on the A2. I took my style bracket today down to Memphis equipment and looked at an A2 and I believe it will work. Never can be too overkill I don't believe.

 

[Csm Davis]

I think if you use both it will be super stiff and should fit think I might do this to my A2's also.

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[Jakelc15]

Your transfer case being misaligned is creating a driveline vibration. It may not feel like much but I've seen the same thing break mounting tabs off for brake valves and crack leaf springs. Another common source for vibration is the driveshaft between the rears. It's always in a bind and hard to check for play.

 

[infidel got me]

I think you have something going on with the brake system itself. The mounting of the clamps/braces has nothing to do with keeping the brake can shafts from shearing off. They are designed to support the brake can/shaft. Why did it snap one on the front axle? I think something is going on inside the drums.

 

[sandcobra164]

Your current support loops look exactly like what CSM Davis posted and what I looked at on my truck earlier. The A2's certainly have a different looking bracket and it may be stronger. I have never seen a sheared wedge brake apply tube until now so I'm confused. The fronts have no bracket as there is no feasible way of adding a moving bracket for steering and they are holding in place. The threads on the tube cover roughly a 1/2 inch of backing plate. I have no idea why those are shearing off.

 

[Jbulach]

.... OR I will add the original mounting tabs to the outside at their original angle which is inside the mounting area of the Ubolt on the A2. I took my style bracket today down to Memphis equipment and looked at an A2 and I believe it will work. Never can be too overkill I don't believe.

I'd go this route, keeps both mounts closer to the cans, also looks like they wont interfere with each other at all.

 

[simp5782]

I think you have something going on with the brake system itself. The mounting of the clamps/braces has nothing to do with keeping the brake can shafts from shearing off. They are designed to support the brake can/shaft. Why did it snap one on the front axle? I think something is going on inside the drums.

Snapped both on the front tandem axle and the Rear pass side one.

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[simp5782]

Your transfer case being misaligned is creating a driveline vibration. It may not feel like much but I've seen the same thing break mounting tabs off for brake valves and crack leaf springs. Another common source for vibration is the driveshaft between the rears. It's always in a bind and hard to check for play.

It is an intermittent vibration. I replaced all of the Ujoints on the truck except for the jackshaft ones a few months ago. No issues out of any of them. I am going to either realign the transmission this week along with the rear bogie.

 

[simp5782]

Your current support loops look exactly like what CSM Davis posted and what I looked at on my truck earlier. The A2's certainly have a different looking bracket and it may be stronger. I have never seen a sheared wedge brake apply tube until now so I'm confused. The fronts have no bracket as there is no feasible way of adding a moving bracket for steering and they are holding in place. The threads on the tube cover roughly a 1/2 inch of backing plate. I have no idea why those are shearing off.

The front brakes are activated by secondary air only and I do not have the same braking power as the rear spring brakes. The rear service brakes have brackets and are activated off the air coming across from the front spring cans. I also assume they are hooked to the same brackets due to the rear vibration and impacts it takes.

 

[simp5782]

These are what I have seen on almost every truck we have had, on all positions

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See where the U bolt is mounted on the brake tube in the picture compared to the far left mark on the shaft on mine. I think mine is nearly in the same place if not closer to the can.

 

[Jakelc15]

Another possibility! Do you think your rear brake relay valve is going bad and causing compounding brake forces? The spring brake and foot brake should not apply at the same time.

 

[simp5782]

Another possibility! Do you think your rear brake relay valve is going bad and causing compounding brake forces? The spring brake and foot brake should not apply at the same time.

It may. I thought about it cause it was after i came down the mountain loaded that i noticed I had the trouble stopping. Granted that was a few hours later without hitting the brakes

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[simp5782]

Profo got me some brackets made that are like the A2 variants. I am going to mount one on the can side. Use the old style brackets to support the tube a little further out. And i may even install one on the screw in side using that bolt. Pics of the installation will be posted next week

Another note.Pulled the wedges on two of the broken chambers. Both were stuck out. I disassembled, cleaned, and greased up.

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[simp5782]

So after swapping bogie units and pulling my transfer case out i found this and it may be the culprit. The mounting bolts were tight holding this bracket onto the transfer case. The bolts holding the mount to the truck were i dont know what you would call it. I took them out with a 3/4" impact after my 1/2" gun wouldn't budge it. Two bolts were broken cleanly in the middle and the lower nut and part of the bolt were fused/melted to the metal washer and hard bushing. But they were tight on the gun taking them off.

Went over kill on the airlines. The guy made lines no where near the 5/16 and 3/8 lines i brought in that i have picture. I gave them a 5/16" hose and a 3/8" hose that cost 1.20$ a ft. Rated at 500psi. They made their hoses out of 11/32" hose that is 1250psi and 6.70 a ft. The bill was 625$ i flipped out. I walked out of there with all the air lines for 279$ the guy's excuse was well we didnt have that line. Well then u should have asked rather than using line that is 7$ a foot over 1$ a ft. So now my truck has about 5 extra gallons of air in oversized lines.

Will be finishing it tomorrow and new brackets installed

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[simp5782]

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[Swamp Donkey]

View attachment 660243

Do you need this bracket? I think that bracket came with the T-case I picked up at the rally. You can have it if you want.