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Broke an axle, now what ?

Johnn Bravo

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Well I just broke my first axle today on my M1009. Not sure how it happened wasn't beating on the truck too hard or anything. If you want a good laugh, it did happen in my yard :cookoo: Feel free to rub it in and tell me how to not break an axle if you'd like.

I'm totally lost on this one and don't know what I should do or what all needs, or should get replaced. I have an old axle that has a new open dif, not sure if I should see if the parts from that one will fit and swamp out whats needed, or just put the whole thing in if it will fit, or try to figure something else out.
Well with my not knowing what should be done I thought I would look for a little direction from the folks that know better then I do.
So what do you all think I should do to get my truck back on the road ?
 

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Recovry4x4

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I'd put no money in a 10 bolt. Replace axle, bearing and seal if you can do so cheaply. Colemans was selling NOS complete rear axles for $295 or start considering the 14 bolt upgrade. Installing a 14 bolt FF eliminates all possibilities of axle breakage (as long as you have the 6.2).
 

OL AG '89

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I get softer grass for the yard..... can't imagine what the kids look like after playing in that stuff....

Did you hear a BIG POP when it broke or was it just a --------- ? moment ?
 

wikallen

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I'd put no money in a 10 bolt. Replace axle, bearing and seal if you can do so cheaply. Colemans was selling NOS complete rear axles for $295 or start considering the 14 bolt upgrade. Installing a 14 bolt FF eliminates all possibilities of axle breakage (as long as you have the 6.2).


Yep, if you can't replace the axle, bearing and seal cheaply, I wouldn't put any money into a 10 bolt. Big tires, and semi float axles are a time bomb. Slap a 14 bolt in there and never worry again.
 

Johnn Bravo

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Yeah I heard a pop when it went, knew right away I broke something back there. Thats the funny thing, I was going to get 33s, but figured I would break the axle so I stayed with the stock size and got 31s.
 

84cucv1ton

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you can get 3/4 ton axles from a late 70s k20 for a few hundred. you get a 14ff and a 10b 8lug front. seems that most have 4.10 gears
 

Mudstone

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I've heard of and seen a few 10 bolts break. its a notoriously weak axle. Spend the money and upgrade to a 14bff and a locker. Its totally worth it. do 4.10 gears then get a D60 front and never worry about axles again. Lift the truck 4-6 inches and throw on a set of 37s. case closed :)
 

2deuce

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When the truck starts bouncing, 10 bolts have a very short life span. I haven't heard of any breaking on the highway with the HP a 6.2 makes. Were you in low range 2wd when it broke?
 

Johnn Bravo

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It was in 2H. It wasn't bouncing at all, the tires were barley moving if at all. I wasn't giving it much throttle, just enough to try to get it to move. I guess I should also add, the left tire dug down about 21 inches and the right tire dug down about 8 inches, not sure if that means anything or not, it was the right axle that broke.
 
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2deuce

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I have backed heavy trailers around in 4 low 2wd, but thought I should be careful with the throttle because 4 low can put some serious strain on a rear that isn't known for its strength. Obvious your axle couldn't take it, maybe it was weak in which case it's better to break at home than out in the woods. If a FF axle breaks( which it probably won't) you won't loose the wheel and hopefully the front will pull you out, another reason to scrap the broken 10 bolt.
 

skateabrock

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find a chevy one ton and swap out for the 14ff and the d60, or better yet find a beat to **** 1008 or 1028 and rob ones with the 4.56's and a detroit. with the 6.2 and cucv 1tons you will never break anything as long as you do maintenance, i.e. u joints, kingpin spring and bushing if there is play, etc.
 

Elwenil

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Are you sure it's the axle and not the Gov-Loc?

Judging by the pic, I'd say it was definitely the axle shaft, though the GovLoc could have gone with it. Either way like everyone else has said, if you are going to be rough on the vehicle an upgrade to a full floating 8 lug rear and matching 8 lug front is the way to go. The ring and pinion and axle shafts in the Dodge 9 1/4" are way stronger than a GM 10 bolt and I swapped it and the stock D44 front out in favor of D60s before I even put my Ramcharger on the road and never looked back.
 

2deuce

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If you can't find a FF 14 bolt and matching front reasonable, a SF 14 bolt and matching front are cheap, give you 8 lugs and you have a much stronger rear(same front). Not as strong as a FF but will easily handle situations where the 10 bolt is marginal. They are easy to find in 3/4 ton suburbans in about any ratio and will bolt in where the 1 tons will require more work. You have alot of choices and nows the time to get the ratio you want for the tires you ultimately want to run.
 

skateabrock

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If you can't find a FF 14 bolt and matching front reasonable, a SF 14 bolt and matching front are cheap, give you 8 lugs and you have a much stronger rear(same front). Not as strong as a FF but will easily handle situations where the 10 bolt is marginal. They are easy to find in 3/4 ton suburbans in about any ratio and will bolt in where the 1 tons will require more work. You have alot of choices and nows the time to get the ratio you want for the tires you ultimately want to run.
i agree that the semi float will work, but what do you mean swapping 1tons is more work??? i can think of u-joint and u-bolts, and you may require new of both no matter what axles you swap in, some axles have different yoke sizes.
 

Monty

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If you need a new rear differental PM me I have a line on some. If your not looking to mess around swapping out diffs grab a shaft from a bone yard and throw it in until you find the diffs you want.

I'm pulling the diff out of my 1009, it should be avaliable in a few weeks if your interested in it.
 

2deuce

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Anything in a suburban will bolt in to a blazer but for 1 ton axles you will have to move the spring perches. Springs are a different width also.
 
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