BROKEN!! do I really want to keep my M1009 anymore

[JohnFire]

Just called Colemans today, to make sure they still had them. They do and they are $395. I checked their site the same day it happened.

How hard are they to change if you have the truck up on jackstands. Correct me if I am wrong but my thought is that it should be easy. Make sure it is full of oil, unbolt it from the springs, the shocks, and the driveshaft. Disconnect the brakelines, roll the axle out of the way. Roll the new one into place. Connect everything, bleed the brakes bolt it all up and done. My count is about 14 bolts for the whole thing. 8 for the ubolts, 4 for the driveshaft, and 2 for shocks.

Tips tricks and general info would be appreciated. Then I can get it in for the oil change.

 

[jj]

Judging by the bottom of my own truck, plan on replacing a lot of the bolts due to corrosion. I think replacing the big U-bolts is considered SOP. But a lot of the bolts on mine probably won't come apart easily. I'm going to replace the shocks anyway. The hardlines and the tee in the brake system will have to get reused, but everything is complete inside the drums. I pulled the cover on mine and destroyed the gasket in the process, curiosity killed that cat. If you don't want to see the pretty, shiny gears, just fill it with 90W from the plug. After that, it is just a case of hold the truck frame up in the air (JACKSTANDS!) and lower the old one out and roll the new one under. My own project will probably take 10 or 12 weeks because i have a real bad habit of seeing stuff, and thinking, "Well, while i'm down here, i may as well...". A rear axle changeout at my house is probably going to morph into an electric fuel pump project/ exhaust system project/ transmission-transfer case leak repair project.

 

[OLDCHEV4X4]

Check Saturn Surplus too. They are in the same town and sell nothing but MV parts.
It always looks easy till you get in there. Before i start a job like this, i soak all the bolts with kroil, or PB blaster for a couple days. Wire brush the threads on the U bolts and chase the threads and soak some more. They say that you should never reuse U bolts, but i have many times, and never broke one yet. So you decide that one.
Hopefully the steel brake line will not twist off too. If it does, you'll have to fix that too.
The brake cable connector can be a pain too. Soak it with kroil.
I have a extra 10 bolt if you get in a pinch. But im not sure what gears are in it. I can look if you want.
I always hope for the best and prepare for the worst.

 

[JohnFire]

I have had to do the parking brake cable before when my original one siezed in the sleeve from lack of use. When I replaced the shocks this year I had to cut off the bolts the german mechanic had used to replace the U-bolt on the one side cause he couldn't find a replacement for it. He reused the other U-bolts, but made a plate and two heavy bolts to replace the original. This also gives me a reason to play with the heavy snap-on impact . Nothing like almost 1200 ftlbs of nut breaking power. This axle was replaced with a used one almost 8 years ago.

 

[mangus580]

I would suggest that you get new ubolts... especially if they have been re-used once already.

 

[Chow717]

I'm thinkin' Lawn ornament!

I second this one! My mother-in-law made the mistake of complaining once about the old parts flatfender I had sitting near the barn. So, much to the chagrin of the missus, I towed it out in front of the house and strung it full of Christmas lights one year. I do not think she has complained again about my "toys" since that episode!

 

[OLDCHEV4X4]

I second this one! My mother-in-law made the mistake of complaining once about the old parts flatfender I had sitting near the barn. So, much to the chagrin of the missus, I towed it out in front of the house and strung it full of Christmas lights one year. I do not think she has complained again about my "toys" since that episode!

Funny....I park my 69 Blazer race truck in the front yard and outline it in Christmas lights too. And i put a plastic santa in the driver seat.

People stop infront of the house at night and take pictures of it. I can see their flash going off.

 

[allrevup]

Hi, I relate. If starting is your mayor issue, and compretion checks OK, then Just do a full or partial tune= IP reb't. $350,Injector reb't. $ (?), gp controler $20-25, temp sensor $18-22, GP'set $50-70, control card (used) $25-75, fuel filter $15, Batteries $60-75 1000cca, tricle/charger $25-40, Block heater 650watts $30-50, etc... you may only need one thing or the other, BEST to you.

 

[JohnFire]

I will call up napa tommorrow and see if I can get a set of ubolts saturday.

I would love to find where to get a IP pump rebuilt for that little $. Another fuel filter will be put on soon. I change that about every year. The batteries are on the new side. I am changing over to a 1000W in block heater instead of the 2000W circulation heater. When the truck is plugged in it charges off of a Kussmaul Auto Charger and the block heater gets power when I turn on the switch by the charger.

 

[OLDCHEV4X4]

If you dont have any luck at NAPA, Try Reading Auto Spring 1-800-858-4228 or Associated Truck Parts in Gilbertsville.
They will bend them up for you.

 

[allrevup]

John, I just did a qick GOOGLE serch for GM 6.2 diesel injection pump, and in the first page you will find rebuilt IP's for as low as $325 plus $25 s/h. I know that the models #'s for the CUCV's are different but coorrect me if I am wrong, the difference is a couple of harden internal parts only to better withtand MILITARY fuels and life. As i mention in the email earlier my friend found a rebuilt kit for the IP and injectors and the DIY cost was less then $300.

 

[JohnFire]

Started hunting again on the web. The more I read the more I am wondering if it is just the injectors and not the pump. The only thing that I really have as a problem is the loss in MPG.

On the Axle, today I hit the U-bolts with penetrating oil and took them off one at a time, cleaned them up and put them back on. This way I don't have to fight with them tommorrow. I have to reuse the U-bolts till the new ones come in tuesday. No big deal there cause I am not going anywhere with it and can change them in the street. Also cleaned and painted the new axle. I also hit everything else with the pb blast oil today.

 

[BobM]

That's what they always tell me anyways!

 

[JohnFire]

Working on it bob, I am going to take pics today while installing the axle

 

[OLDCHEV4X4]

Did you get a new one at Coleman's?

 

[OLDCHEV4X4]

John, any progress?

 

[Sephirothq]

sent you a PM john

 

[JohnFire]

Ok here is the update and some pics. The axle came from colemans, though I think I would have preferred one from saturn surplus cause his are kept in a warehouse vs outside. My decision was time based. Saturday I went to Napa to get U-bolts, they placed the order and they were to come in on tuesday. I also wire wheeled the axle and painted it and filled it with the gear oil

Sunday we took the truck up to the firehouse where they were letting me do the swap in the new building that houses both utility trucks. No heat or insulation so a high btu kerosene heater was used to help keep warm.

Jacked the truck up and placed it on 6x6 blocks 3 high. Took the right tire off with no problems, when pulling the left one the whole left axle shaft came out. Right did the same as I pulled on it. Good thing this did happen right in front of my house and not on the highway. Disconnected the parking brake lines and when I was trying to disconnect the brake lines my flare nut wrench snapped. Dad spent 2 hrs hunting for one on sunday. He got one and I ended up using a pair of vicegrips to get them disconnected cause they were too tight for the wrench and stripped the fittings. Dropped the U-bolts and the driveshaft slid the whole thing out

Slide the new one into place and reused the U-bolts till the new ones came in on tuesday. Had to get a new bolt kit for the driveshaft and new brake lines on monday. Took me a little to bend them so they were close to the old ones. Hooked it all up and used a handheld brake bleeder to bleed the breaks. I didn't like the look of the brake fliud so I pumped out the old fluid and filled it with new silicone fluid. I will do the front later.

Wed took the truck in for an oil change and had the mechanic look over the axle and make sure I put it all back together right. He gave the thumbs up and said it looked good. Thursday I put the new U-bolts on and torqued them to spec. Saturday is the first long trip with it. Ran it around in the snow today in 4H a few times while getting stuff for the fire company plow project (on a m102.

 

[K10A]

Put an SF 14 bolt in that pig, i know too late. 10 bolts are JUNK , for everything.

 

[JohnFire]

I didn't want to mess around trying to find something in the junkyard and then try and figure out if it was a 3.08. Or if it was a junked axle. I also don't have a shop to work on it in. Being that this is my primary mode of transportation to work on a 125mile round trip commute I needed it quickly and still set up to run on the highway at 75mph. I really don't go offroading all that much, maybe on an occasional brush fire, or at the SS rally.