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Broken Glow Plug Question

cclary25

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I refrained all last night and this morning from asking this since there are so many posts on here about broken glow plugs but I am still lost on what to do and really feeling hopeless at this point. First, I removed the alternator out of the way to free up space and purchased the Kascar Glow plug removal tool and this was the first time I had ever used it and it broke the plug right at the threads and the tool itself collapsed inwards on itself ruining the tool as well. Well, all the post talk about removing the injector and just getting the broken parts out. Well, I got the tool to remove the injector and disconnect the hoses and removed injector but I can still can't do anything. The glow plug is completely filling up the threads and can't get it out and not sure how you get this broken threads pieces filling up the threads out. If there was a little bit of thread could try screwing something else in but its blocking all the threads.

Do I have to just drill it out and be super careful not to ruin the threads? Just really confused what to do since it broke with the threaded part still in the threads. This is probably the absolute worse case scenario that could have happened between breaking at worse spot possible and breaking the glow plug removal tool.

Hopefully, this is some good news on an easy way to get this fixed.
 

911joeblow

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You might have to build a jig to allow for you to precision drill it out and not hurt the threads. Bad situation for sure.
 

papakb

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It sounds like the way you tried to remove the glow plug was incorrect if you snapped it off at the threads. If you held the center section with a wrench and then tried to unscrew the outer section it would have snapped the glow plug rather than unthreading it from the block and also have caused the tool to self destruct. The way the tool was meant to be used is to hold the outer section (larger hex segment) and then to unscrew the smaller inner hex unscrewing the glow plug. I remember thinking about this the first time I had to use the tool and realizing how confusing this would be to a laymen without any instructions coming with the tool.

At this point I think you are limited to 2 options. As 911joeblow says try to carefully drill out the broken plug without damaging the head or remove it and have a shop remove the broken plug. Either way your going to need to run a tap down through the hole to make sure the threads are clear and remember to use a little anti-sieze compound when you install the new glow plug(s).
 
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cclary25

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Yep, your exactly correct. I had no idea how to use the tool and that exactly what I did and found out after I broke it that I was using it wrong. I even tried to find directions and the first directions just showed turning the large part.
 

Bighorn

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It may not help now, but Snap-on makes or made a special socket for 6.2 glow plugs.
Here, i have one;
20180418_162806.jpg
20180418_163139.jpg
It is a 6 point 3/8" deep well with a few special traits.
It has a spring clip to hold the glow plug in the socket.
It has an internal stop to keep the plug from falling all the way into the socket.
Snap On numbers; S6105A
It can be done with a regular 6 point 3/8" deep well of course, but this socket makes it easier.
If i were in your shoes, at this point, pull the head.
No sense in making a bad situation worse.
If it has a lot of miles, just pull both heads and have them checked and a valve job done, timing set, water pump.
It's only money.
 

tage

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Have to make sure the glow plug is completely un threaded before you use the tool. Then the sleeve of the tool should move very slowly.

Worst case is you have to pull the head... and I think that's your only option as the glow plug is still swollen and still threaded in the head.
I would leave it alone if you don't have the money to fix it properly. 1 plug isn't going to make a difference
 

cclary25

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So if just finish changing all the rest and just leave that one disconnected everything will still be fine for time being? I plan on changing out the engine here in next years just wanted to actually be able to drive it and for time being.
 

98G

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I believe missing one glow plug will cause the others to overvolt, producing a cascade of failed glow plugs.

Do without functioning glow plugs entirely - keep your truck in a heated garage....
 

Bighorn

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I believe missing one glow plug will cause the others to overvolt, producing a cascade of failed glow plugs.

Do without functioning glow plugs entirely - keep your truck in a heated garage....
He could run 7 in the head and the 8th could be threaded into a tin can and secured to the engine.
 

Bighorn

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Have you ever removed the cylinder heads from an engine?
Not being sarcastic.
There are some differences and special tools and things you will need.
Once the head is off, take it to a machine shop and have them remove the glow plug.
Pay to have both heads stripped, cleaned, and magnafluxed.
Then have the grind the valve seats.

Why are you changing the motor out?
I assume you meant rebuilt.
But you could be putting something else in there.

I wouldn't make this head removal your first ever.
 

Bighorn

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Not trying to discourage you.
Everybody learns sometime.
But pulling the heads is not going to be cheap or fast.
If you are going to the trouble and expense; go all the way the first time.
I have never seen anyone sorry they did a complete valve job on any engine.
But ive seen plenty who went cheap and wished they had left it alone.
You can absolutely do this.
But expect to pay money and wait at least a week.

You could take a campbells soup can and drill a hole in it slightly smaller than the threads of the glow plug.
Thread the plug into the can.
Now you have a sort of liberty bell object.
Make sure the glow plug cannot touch the sides of the can in any way.
Secure it to something in reach of the affected glow plugs power wire using bailing wire.
Attach that glow plug wire along with the othe 7 good ones.
Now when you glow, 7 will work in the heads and the 8th will glow in its temporary chicken and stars soup can harmlessly.
You will have enough glow to start the engine but it may be a little rough on that cylinder for 60 seconds or so.
You could drive that way for years.
 

cclary25

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I'll gladly give that a try then, just got to make this last for the next year while finish saving up for the Cummings motor.
 

Bighorn

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Ahh.
Thank you.
I wondered about your intention.
In that case; soup can away!

The idea here is to have 8 working glow plugs at all times.
Any less and you'll burn plugs.
The fact that one of them heatd a soup can instead of the pre-chamber will only be a minor stumble on startup.
But it is imperative you have that 8th plug to keep the circuit balanced.
After a few minutes the engine will warm and steady and it won't matter.
Just PLEASE secure that plug in the can in such a way it cannot start a fire.
They glow white hot for 20 seconds on a cold morning.
Nothing flammable can touch or enter that can.
Good luck on the soup.
I'd go with a baked bean can.. just seems more.. military.
 

patracy

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I'd pull the injector to have a view into the tip of the glow plug. Then drill the plug, then pray that the easy out doesn't snap. Maybe if you drill far enough the tip of the plug will separate from the plug thread area. And you can pluck it out through the injector hole. It's not going to be fun in any case. This would be the first thing I'd try. If that fails, it's time to pull the head. When drilling, make sure you use a drill bit small enough to only drill through the center of the plug. The plug has a shoulder in the head that seals it. Too big of a drill, and you'll drill into this shoulder of the head and pretty much ruin the head. While a glow plug in a shielded can would prevent any other issues, it wouldn't help starting. And you're just putting a ticking time bomb in as a fix IMO. (Also you'd need to ground that plug substantially.)
 

Milcommoguy

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Really... If the glow plugs are 24 volt... and they are, how are they going to burnout or "over volt" if the supply from the batteries is 24 volts or less under the 60+/- amp load of good plugs ??? Only way you could toast them is having them energized for a longer time (failed controller) or they were going to blow anyway.

If you remover the alternator bracket, that's the easiest one to deal with. Pull injector. Connect up powerful shop vac to a smaller hose (duck tape together) sized to shove into removed injector port. Turn vac on and "drill baby drill" (angle motor / carbide drills, stepping up in size. Easy out maybe or just to the threads. re-tap, cuss, bust a grove or knuckle... and Pray & Patients. Keeping the suction ON. My two cents worth could save hundred. GUYCO
 

cclary25

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Alright, so just wanted to say I love this forum and everyone on here is amazing and the advice is incredibly helpful! So I said the **** with it don't plan on keeping this motor for all that long I'm going to go for it on drilling it out and if cant get it will just go with metal can route. I took a small bit as advised and placed a couple sofa pillows down on the wheel and the part next to wheel and a few towels over the side right there and got comfortable for the long haul and begin drilling away with a small drill. So after a long time drilling and was making some headway which was really difficult with the center part sticking out still I noticed it start to spin. Well, low and behold the threads must have got heated up from all the drilling and it came right out. So now I got the threads all the hole however the remaining glow plug including the remaining threads are still stuck. At least I can go to bed tonight on a positive note knowing I have managed to save this terrible scenario and get the threads out.

However, since its still stuck is my best bet at this point to just grab on the threads and break the threaded part off and try and get the pieces out from inside the injector?

In case I confused anyone above I had broken the injector with the threads in the hole and now after a lot of drilling the threads spun out the hole so now the hole is no longer blocked by the threads however now i just have the swollen plug still in there along with the bit of threads that got out the hole still hanging on the end of plug.
 
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ken

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I suggest getting what is called a "EASY OUT" Although they are not that easy. A good auto parts store should carry these. If not find a machine shop supply near you. What you will do is drill a smaller hole into the bad glow plug. Then you tap the easy out into the hole. Then you turn it to unscrew the old plug. Take a new glow plug with you to the auto parts so you can get the size of easy out and drill bit you will need. Before you start spray the broken plug with penetrating oil. Let it soak. If you need to remove the head. You will need some needle nose vise grips. Once the head is off. Tap the pre chamber through the injector hole to remove it. Then use the needle nose vise grips to unscrew the glow plug. you can run it with just 7 glow plugs. I have done this myself with Civi 6.2s. It may miss a bit until it warms up.
 

98G

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Really... If the glow plugs are 24 volt... and they are, how are they going to burnout or "over volt" if the supply from the batteries is 24 volts or less under the 60+/- amp load of good plugs ??? GUYCO
My understanding is that the system sends power based on the resistance of 8 glowplugs. Lose one and the others are over energized and fail one after the other. Each one that fails increasing the overload on the next. ( it's possible this is CUCV specific )

I have had no glow plug problems, so I have no first hand experience. The vast majority of my diesel equipment doesn't have glowplugs...(for which I am thankful)
 
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