Bunk Trailer for FRFS

[SCSG-G4]

Gus,
I'm using two inch solid foam in the walls and ceiling, with 'Great Stuff' in the 2" square tube, 3/4 inch foam below 1/2 plywood on the floor, and probably some foam boards under the floor held on by glue/undercoating and clips. If I like the way it turns out, I'll probably re-do the insulation on the shop vans the same way.

 

[stampy]

Nice. I ask because I am doing my 109 box and I used the aluminium insulation then k-flex with the great stuff in the corners. So far so good.

 

[SLOrazorsedge]

Very nice unit! Mounting a couple of Michelin 395/85R20s on MRAP wheels would sure give you extra flotation and appearance boost :0) Peashooters adapter plates make it a cinch.

 

[SCSG-G4]

Finally got enough money to get the insulation. Lowes delivered it yesterday around noon, I worked till after supper, then called it a day. Had to get the car serviced this morning (370,748 mile checkup - it is a Toyota), so I did not start back to work on it till after lunch. Completed the first layer of insulation and ran the A/C to see how well it was working. It will hold the inside 20 or more degrees cooler than the outside, and I have another layer of insulation to add, plus doing the floor. Here are the pics!

 

[LowTech]

Changes. What are you doing to hold that foam up? I see some kind of plate(?) that you're using foam spacers above.
Can you give some details on what's going on there? I'm totaly interested in did to solve that problem, just can't get the images clear enough.

 

[SCSG-G4]

Roof panels glued in with Liquid Nails Heavy Duty adhesive - spacers were there to keep them in place till the glue set. Wall pieces just pushed in place. They will be covered on the inside by Lowes FRP White Pebbled sheets (#8566) which will be glued and screwed in place. Wheel wells done the same way, then a single layer of 3/4 foam on the floor covered by 23/32 plywood sheathing and indoor/outdoor carpet. I also have a skylight to install and some more welding around the electrical entrance to hold/support the breaker box. Plan is to finish the ceiling, then the back before moving to the sides. Then evaluate whether the 6500 BTU/hr unit is too big, and if so replace it with a 5000 BTU/hr and finish the front wall. THEN, work on the floor. Last will be to install the bunks, lockers, table, mirror and do the electrical.

 

[bigugh20]

Mike, from time to time I have seen lots of new Navy shipboard berthing "racks" on gl. These would be perfect as they have lots of storage space built in. We called them "coffin racks".
If I ever get a M109 van that's the way I'd like to set it up.

 

[Wolfen]

That's a good idea bigugh20 I'll have to remember that if I ever make a Camper.

 

[bigugh20]

That's a good idea bigugh20 I'll have to remember that if I ever make a Camper.

I've seen them at the Portsmouth or Norfolk, Va. GL sights.

 

[SCSG-G4]

Craig,
I'm constrained by space, esp in the S-280. There the bunks can have a max height of 55 inches and a max width of 26 inches, and the front set has to be built in the S-280 because it cannot be 'turned' to go against the front wall once built. In a shop van (M-109, or M185), there is a little more width and a lot more height, so they would fit much better. Width situation is similar in the bunk trailer, and the bunks will be over the wheel wells which will limit under-bed storage. Thanks for the ideas, hopefully someone else will be able to benefit from them!