Burt lives!

[ldmack3]

Happy to report I finished all repairs (so far!) and have been running in the driveway getting temps up and leak checking. Only issue at present is the turbo oil return is seeping. Had trouble getting the bottom end on as I forgot to install until 1st run and it was a bear getting it on. 1st crank took a shot of ether then every morning cranks for less than 1sec before starting. Hadf some noise at first the large nut on #3 injector was loose and it was squirting some fuel. Tightened and purrs like a kitten.

With 2 new pistons, sleeves and rod bearings I want to break them in slowly. I can't find the run in spec in the TMS or on here using search. So I run at low idle for a minute or two while checking for leaks then bump to 800 RPMs for 5-10 minutes, then 1,000/5-10 mins, 1,200/5-10 mins and finally 1,500 RPMs until temp gets to 120/140. Takes a few but I leave the block heaters on all night so it will be warmer starting up.

Was going to get fresh fuel today but it's snowing so I'll wait for another warm spell.

Can anyone point me to where the run specs are located in the TM?

Time to party!!

 

[ldmack3]

Oh and I do vary the RPM some with the pedal at each setting. Max RMP I've hit is 2,000.

 

[DaneGer21]

Oh and I do vary the RPM some with the pedal at each setting. Max RMP I've hit is 2,000.

I’m not sure the break-ins specs for this engine, but at least the few gasoline engines I’ve built/rebuilt we would limit high RPM’s and stay out of boost for a few thousand miles with oil changes frequently.

 

[ToddJK]

I would keep doing what you're doing for a little while and then take out for a local drive to put the engine under load, listening for any abnormalities/weird noises, then do another inspection. I couldn't find anything in any TM's about a specific break in period to the multifuel, but from what I know about diesels, most suggest one of two options, operating under load for 150 hours or 1000 miles, we did the hours for our new diesel forklifts and our delivery trucks went by miles back when I opened a new Menards store in Southern Ohio. I know during this period, you want to frequently inspect you oil for an abnormal amount of steel shavings and changing your oil at least once within this period and again after the break in period, keeping notes on oil condition. If it's all good, normal dirty diesel oil after the changes and the break in period, then you're good to go and put the truck to work or beat on her some.
I would assume the multifuel follows the same regimen as a diesel engine, but you can always extend that break in period at your leisure. You should notice a performance improvement once the break in has settled and a smoother running engine.

 

[ldmack3]

OK found the run in schedule.
TM 9-2815-210-34-2-2 6.41

After a few runs I notice what sounds like a clatter at idle. Louder in the front but can hear it everywhere. Didn't do it the first few runs or when cold.
Oil level and pressure are fine.

Valve adjustment?

 

[ToddJK]

OK found the run in schedule.
TM 9-2815-210-34-2-2 6.41

After a few runs I notice what sounds like a clatter at idle. Louder in the front but can hear it everywhere. Didn't do it the first few runs or when cold.
Oil level and pressure are fine.

Valve adjustment?

I would do a video if possible just so we can hear it. If it's from the front, is it bottom end or top end?
I'm assuming since it just started, either something has worked loose or gained some play, hopefully by coming loose and not by wear. Pop the valve covers off and start it up and stand over it and listen, if it's the valves then you'll know, maybe the valves just need a minor adjustments on top of the rods.

 

[ldmack3]

Update
OK so I decided to pull the valve covers to listen to the valves and found out the RH front bolt on each cover is in a water jacket. I had drained the radiator prior to the last time pulled them so did not know. Since both are doing it I'm guessing that's normal?
While the cover is off I decided to retorque the heads. Glad I did! Several got another flat, some got several more. Broke my tool for the three pocket studs and re-welded it 4 times. Worked great last year so I'm doing something wrong. Tomorrow (bunch of snow today) I will take the pieces to a local weld shop for repair then finish the retorque. Then on to setting the valve lash, stick a bolt in the wet holes and run to listen for noise.