Buying price

[Lax]

I am a Deuce guy looking at getting into the HMMWV world. Naturally I am looking at the government auctions as I bought my Deuce years ago.

My question is what is a "rough average" final selling price of the HMMWVs actually selling on the government auctions? I see they seem to start about $4,000 - $6,000 each.

Just wondering what the actually usually end up going for. Thank you.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I am a Deuce guy looking at getting into the HMMWV world. Naturally I am looking at the government auctions as I bought my Deuce years ago.

My question is what is a "rough average" final selling price of the HMMWVs actually selling on the government auctions? I see they seem to start about $4,000 - $6,000 each.

Just wondering what the actually usually end up going for. Thank you.

Add 2,700 + - to sale price for taxes and auction fees. Don’t forget shipping around 1.25 per mile for running vehicle. 9k to 12k should get you something that runs. This is my first experience with the process but numbers are close based on what I have done.

 

[Coug]

It really depends on the age and model of the HMMWV. As well as running condition.
An earlier model you might get for under$10k before taxes/fees in running condition.
A non-running early truck might be $5-7k

A newer truck (6.5NA and 4 speed) can be anywhere from $12-20k.
An even newer truck (6.5 turbo and 4 speed) can be anywhere from $20k to $50k depending on model and condition.

One thing to keep in mind, the early trucks (6.2 and 6.5 detuned with 3 speed) have a top cruising speed of 55mph or you risk destroying the engine. They are also 25+ years old. You'll easily spend 4 grand or more to swap in a 4 speed transmission and 6.5na, only slightly more for a 6.5 turbo. So the price difference between a 3 speed truck and a 4 speed, if you want to cruise at 60+ mph, then just get an A2 truck (M1123 is the A2 series) and benefit from it being newer and lots of upgrades over the early trucks other than the 4 speed and more powerful motor.

 

[M1165A1]

As posted by those above there are many alternative models with different price points.

It does seem the trucks that have been up at auction lately I’ve been much rougher than the batch that were there in February when I purchased my last one.

It would be worth getting hold of a chart that lists the various upgrades to the model iterations (M998, M99882, ECV, REV) and figuring out what you want to pay for. IMHO the REV series upgrades, particularly the enhanced suspension and hubs, air conditioning and the upgraded radiator fan and cooling system are well worth the money. But an REV truck will cost north of 25,000 before fees and taxes.

It’s also safe to assume that no matter how good the condition of the truck you purchase at auction, new tires will be required immediately. That will add nearly $2500 in extra expense even if you stay with the stock model MT/R wheels.

 

[Maxjeep1]

You have to have the 6.5 and 4 speed at a minimum! M1123 truck is probably the best deal available. Yermo has really nice stuff and try to buy when they have a 100 up for sale. Do research on 5 vehicles that will be auctioned off on that day. I probably could have saved some money by bidding on a different truck but I bought what I studied every picture and video they had. I have yet to see a turbo truck that’s complete or doesn’t have obvious issues. Look at the exhaust and see the wear/ rust/ discoloration that’s a good indicator of the mileage when compared to under hood and doghouse and transmission cooler as in it has crushed fins. Nuts and bolts are they rusted. I wanted a body that had the least amount of holes and no blow by and good oil pressure. I’m happy with my choice and I would buy it again. I might edit this once I take delivery. You are going to spend 20k on a well sorted out truck and you will spend it at purchase or when you get it home. No getting around it. I don’t know first hand but this is my opinion after buying, watching videos, reading posts here and my Gut! This is what I bought. It looks really clean and bolts and nuts are not painted and underneath looks unmolested. Really hard to buy something from a few pics and 2 videos.

 

[Action]

I am a Deuce guy looking at getting into the HMMWV world. Naturally I am looking at the government auctions as I bought my Deuce years ago.

My question is what is a "rough average" final selling price of the HMMWVs actually selling on the government auctions? I see they seem to start about $4,000 - $6,000 each.

Just wondering what the actually usually end up going for. Thank you.

On the GP site, enter "hmmwv" in search box. Hit ENTER button on your keyboard. Click on the "SOLD" tab. Look at over 2000 sold humvees.

 

[M1165A1]

MaxJeep1, my M1165A1 came out of Yermo (Feb auction, May release) and was more-or-less in perfect shape other than the necessary tire replacement. My buddy bought another one the week earlier that was even cleaner than mine.

Of course it needed a deep clean and thorough routine maintenance/fluid change, but even the fluids that were drained were pristine. Bonus points is that the interior was also in perfect shape, save for 2 seat belts that needed replacing.

It all depends on what you buy at auction, as said study the photos carefully - and the short videos. Even then it’s a crap shoot, I know of another clean looking M1165A1 that came out a few months before mine and needed a new engine despite looking good in photo/vid.

 

[98G]

You have to have the 6.5 and 4 speed at a minimum!

Not necessarily.

Sure, it makes for a much better interstate cruising vehicle.. but if your primary usage is back roads with a speed limit of 55 then that extra gear isn't so important.

6.2 vs 6.5 isn't much of a difference either, other than the additional reliability of the GEP variant of the 6.5. The 6.2 and 6.5 are both severely underpowered gutless turds, disposable engines. Without looking under the hood, you won't be able to tell them apart.

As noted, 6.5 and 4 speed adds cost/value when buying or selling. It may or may not be worth the additional $ depending on the intended use.

Edit to add a pic. Just for S&G

 

[M1165A1]

One other stray thought . . . If hard doors (i.e., X doors) are important to you try and buy them on the vehicle in the auction. They have gotten pricey lately (like most HMMWV parts). The overwhelming majority of HMMWVs at auction don’t have doors since the armored Frag doors are removed before sale.

 

[Ninewhineone]

It really depends on the age and model of the HMMWV. As well as running condition.
An earlier model you might get for under$10k before taxes/fees in running condition.
A non-running early truck might be $5-7k

A newer truck (6.5NA and 4 speed) can be anywhere from $12-20k.
An even newer truck (6.5 turbo and 4 speed) can be anywhere from $20k to $50k depending on model and condition.

One thing to keep in mind, the early trucks (6.2 and 6.5 detuned with 3 speed) have a top cruising speed of 55mph or you risk destroying the engine. They are also 25+ years old. You'll easily spend 4 grand or more to swap in a 4 speed transmission and 6.5na, only slightly more for a 6.5 turbo. So the price difference between a 3 speed truck and a 4 speed, if you want to cruise at 60+ mph, then just get an A2 truck (M1123 is the A2 series) and benefit from it being newer and lots of upgrades over the early trucks other than the 4 speed and more powerful motor.

I’ve been looking for such a list. I’ve been to the Am Gen site that has a breakdown of the purpose and cost, but not a “model and trim package” breakdown. I can’t find anything on Eastern Supply, Gov Planet, Iron Planet, or any other site I’ve searched. Any ideas? Thanks

 

[frank8003]

They still cheaper that a "barn find uncut Jeep".

HMMWV, until supply runs out, is like every other ex-military truck that was rode hard.
This is NOT a used car, few "safety features", hard to register title for on-road.
It is a used up military tactile vehicle, meant to do jobs which She did.

You have to work on it. Could take years.
See the many threads here in Steel Soldiers and buy one from somebody HERE
with sale depending upon proper on-the-road title registration transfer.

I can have an on-road Air Force Deuce delivered to here, transferred to me too,
for on the road this week but hesitant about the HMMWV.

 

[Milcommoguy]

I’ve been looking for such a list. I’ve been to the Am Gen site that has a breakdown of the purpose and cost, but not a “model and trim package” breakdown. I can’t find anything on Eastern Supply, Gov Planet, Iron Planet, or any other site I’ve searched. Any ideas? Thanks

“model and trim package” That's funny

At some point I would say they're all convertibles, most with the top down and sitting for a long time. What might seem like a low asking price (auction) can go crazy $$$ quick.

Then once one gets familiar with bumper to bumper warranty (basically none) it's more $$$ for parts and pieces. Good thing there's no chrome, LOL. Lots of owner upgrades though. Here's where the sticker shock can kick in. IMO, best to find the one the way you want it.

Tax, auctions fees, forms fees, delivery fees, license add that in too. A little research needed here too Mr. that's code

About the only savings are once you get one, YOU are the mechanic. That could go either way with any savings. More likely to use up one's savings. HAha

Google various models and variants. Search M998, history, models, uses... should find a lot.

The love of a HumV is not a cheap date.

Funny with you, not at U. CAMO

 

[Action]

I have the z51 package.

 

[Mullaney]

.
I have to agree with Milcommoguy . You can buy one that you can get cheap, then spend 3x that amount of money fixing and repairing. OR, you could spend your hard earned money and buy a running and ready to drive from somebody else. There are people who work on the HMMWV for a living. They live it daily. They will fix the hacked up wiring, make sure that start and glow plug circuit has been repaired, inspected and bad parts replaced.

These machines are low mileage but that doesn't mean that you can buy it at auction cheap - and start cruising. Even if there is a roof or maybe even doors - what about the windows that are rolled down? And the rain comes. And the dust. And they sit there sometimes for YEARS before they are sent to auction.

There are other folks who buy these things and flip them for dollars. Nothing wrong with that, but YOU the perspective new owner needs to inspect whatever you buy. If you have never owned one, PAY SOMEBODY who already has one or one of the vendors here to inspect it for you. Don't let a few squirts of paint cloud your vision!

There are folks with Brick and Mortar (okay, steel, sheetmetal and concrete) facilities to conduct business in. If you are talking to somebody like that, yes you might pay a little more - but - if something fails, chances are they haven't rolled up their tent and headed for the hills. There are good machines here for sale in the Classifieds too. Just remember: If you are shopping and the deal seems too good to be true there might be a reason no matter where or what you buy.

IF you are willing to work at it - and no, you don't need a freakin radio to be the first thing you add to your truck - and you plan to spend six months patching and fixing, then by all means, buy two or three auction trucks. That way you will have enough parts to make one really good one. Expect scuffed knuckles, dirt in your eyes, water in your transfer case or rear end. Expect to be tired. Expect to be disappointed. BUT EVENTUALLY, if you work hard the truck of your dreams will be possible. Or, pull out the wallet and Pay The Man. Think before you spend!

As usual CAMO offered up a lot of good info too.

(Off Soapbox) + (No, I do not sell HMMWV's)

 

[Maxjeep1]

My personal experience to date. Missed several nice trucks because they were more than I was willing to pay. Did research on 4 vehicles for sale on the same day and missed 3 of the 4. I decided that if I was going to purchase one I needed to put in a more aggressive bid. I bid 13,000 on my M1123 and I was high bid and I’m sitting in it now smelling diesel fuel that I don’t know where it’s coming from. Not enough to drip but just enough to smell. It showed 132 miles on it and I know that it’s true miles after inspection. I have replaced the fuel gauge and the sending unit in the tank and I need to replace the rectangle gasket on top of the tank when it gets to 1/4 tank. I replaced fan belt and I still have some cosmetic items that need addressed like seats and top. Mechanically it’s solid and I couldn’t be happier. I think you need to buy the most complete best running truck you can afford or the cheapest one you can find a take a chance on getting a great deal. Pay now or pay later. I probably paid to much for what I got, I’m ok with it because it’s my personal vehicle and not for sale! When they run out of Hmmwv’s to sell I will be in great shape
I would never buy one from someone else! I would rather take my chances at the Gov!

 

[Ninewhineone]

“model and trim package” That's funny

At some point I would say they're all convertibles, most with the top down and sitting for a long time. What might seem like a low asking price (auction) can go crazy $$$ quick.

Then once one gets familiar with bumper to bumper warranty (basically none) it's more $$$ for parts and pieces. Good thing there's no chrome, LOL. Lots of owner upgrades though. Here's where the sticker shock can kick in. IMO, best to find the one the way you want it.

Tax, auctions fees, forms fees, delivery fees, license add that in too. A little research needed here too Mr. that's code

About the only savings are once you get one, YOU are the mechanic. That could go either way with any savings. More likely to use up one's savings. HAha

Google various models and variants. Search M998, history, models, uses... should find a lot.

The love of a HumV is not a cheap date.

Funny with you, not at U. CAMO

Thanks for the info.

 

[Glider]

Get what you can afford that has good bones. The truck costs mentioned are accurate. I have had hmmwv about 1 year. I truly believe so far I have spent more time working on it than have driven it. It is getting into the nice category and I'm in the same ballpark with money spent.

Cliff notes:
New 4 man soft top 2500.00-3000.00
Used 90%tires and wheels 800-1200
Radio tray 150.00
Alternator 550.00 60amp higher amperage up to 1200
Starter 650.00
Hard doors 2500.00-3000.00
Aftermarket bucket seats and driver base 1300.00
Airlift bumper 500

 

[Ninewhineone]

Thanks for the info.

Don’t know how I hit reply.
I’m looking forward to it. Saving up some funds to try and get one. We’ll see how it goes. If anything, at least I’ll learn more than I ever wanted to know about glow plugs, grounding harnesses, and bad tires.

PS: Mr. ?

 

[Ninewhineone]

Get what you can afford that has good bones. The truck costs mentioned are accurate. I have had hmmwv about 1 year. I truly believe so far I have spent more time working on it than have driven it. It is getting into the nice category and I'm in the same ballpark with money spent.

Cliff notes:
New 4 man soft top 2500.00-3000.00
Used 90%tires and wheels 800-1200
Radio tray 150.00
Alternator 550.00 60amp higher amperage up to 1200
Starter 650.00
Hard doors 2500.00-3000.00
Aftermarket bucket seats and driver base 1300.00
Airlift bumper 500

Awesome. Thanks. This will help with figuring out how much OT I have to work.

 

[Ninewhineone]

.
I have to agree with Milcommoguy . You can buy one that you can get cheap, then spend 3x that amount of money fixing and repairing. OR, you could spend your hard earned money and buy a running and ready to drive from somebody else. There are people who work on the HMMWV for a living. They live it daily. They will fix the hacked up wiring, make sure that start and glow plug circuit has been repaired, inspected and bad parts replaced.

These machines are low mileage but that doesn't mean that you can buy it at auction cheap - and start cruising. Even if there is a roof or maybe even doors - what about the windows that are rolled down? And the rain comes. And the dust. And they sit there sometimes for YEARS before they are sent to auction.

There are other folks who buy these things and flip them for dollars. Nothing wrong with that, but YOU the perspective new owner needs to inspect whatever you buy. If you have never owned one, PAY SOMEBODY who already has one or one of the vendors here to inspect it for you. Don't let a few squirts of paint cloud your vision!

There are folks with Brick and Mortar (okay, steel, sheetmetal and concrete) facilities to conduct business in. If you are talking to somebody like that, yes you might pay a little more - but - if something fails, chances are they haven't rolled up their tent and headed for the hills. There are good machines here for sale in the Classifieds too. Just remember: If you are shopping and the deal seems too good to be true there might be a reason no matter where or what you buy.

IF you are willing to work at it - and no, you don't need a freakin radio to be the first thing you add to your truck - and you plan to spend six months patching and fixing, then by all means, buy two or three auction trucks. That way you will have enough parts to make one really good one. Expect scuffed knuckles, dirt in your eyes, water in your transfer case or rear end. Expect to be tired. Expect to be disappointed. BUT EVENTUALLY, if you work hard the truck of your dreams will be possible. Or, pull out the wallet and Pay The Man. Think before you spend!

As usual CAMO offered up a lot of good info too.

(Off Soapbox) + (No, I do not sell HMMWV's)

That last paragraph describes what I’m about. I didn’t even think of a radio. I’m looking for something to work on, learn on, and make mistakes. But, at the end, knowing my blood and sweat are now a part of its soul. It will also help that my nephew was a mechanic in the Marines. He’s offered to help me out when I get one.