Cab roof insulation

[Sharecropper]

Has anybody come up with a way to insulate the open void space in our trucks cab roofs? It seems we spend a lot of time, money and effort insulating the floor and firewall but never do anything with the cab roof. Thanks in advance for your replies.

 

[richingalveston]

I have looked at it and considered it but the only access is small holes at visors and a couple in the door jamb. the metal is pretty thin and any expanding foam would be impossible to get good coverage without a ton of relief holes on the inner skin. And would most likely bubble the exterior. Just drilling the inner skin without damaging the outer would be difficult. I think the only insulating option is to put in a head liner and you need to buy all the plastic trim pieces for that which really takes away from it being a cucv.

I plan to build a roof rack that covers the entire roof so the sun never hits my roof, I can then install some self adhesive dyno mat or similar to the outside of the roof since it will not be seen. The roof rack will have a solid aluminum pan that will be water tight and hopefully keep me in the shade at all times.

I plan to start the roof rack as soon as my exhaust and hood modifications are done. I think the truck is going to look stupid with the exhaust being seen on the roof so I want to cover it as soon as possible.

 

[Gunfreak25]

I've seen a guy spray expanding foam I'm his roof to fill the void. I'd worry about rust though. However many modern vehicles use foam in the pillars and between panels to dampen noise.

For the fiberglass hard top I was going to line with a dynamat type material then fashion a headliner from masonite type material with more insulation underneath and a fabric of choice glued to the exposed portion.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[tobyS]

Try foam sleeping mats.

 

[cucvrus]

Anything you inject/place into that hollow steel cavern is going to do nothing but promote rust. I cut these roofs off when they were 10 years old and they were very rusty inside. I would opt to live with the noise or buy a simple screw in stock style headliner. That will add sound deadener and retain the nice clean factory look. That trim and parts are still out there in many scrap yards. Get the headliner out of a used salvage truck and have it recovered by a professional. Or NOT. Have a Great Memorial Day weekend and remember the meaning of the Holiday.

 

[honda]

I used both the Ceramic Insulation and Sound Control Lizard skin on the Cab ceiling/topper roof and floor.
Both applications work well. Floor was finished off with Line-X - right over the top of the lizard skin.
I live in the desert. In dead August my hand can feel little heat when placed on the cab ceiling. Vehicle is painted desert tan.

 

[country]

we have rolls of roof lining material used on the Oshkosh M1070

the material in nice

we can cut section and price


HEM-204 | Insulation Material Head liner Foam with vinyl Cab Insulation Roll
60' Foot Cab Insulation Panel for Oshkosh Palletized Loading System (PLS) M1074, M1075, M1076 and M1077
NSN #: 2510-01-511-5603
Part #: 1319320
Price: $425.00

 

[honda]

we have rolls of roof lining material used on the Oshkosh M1070
the material in nice we can cut section and price

I have been using Fat Mat in the doors of the 1009 and Lizard skin on the ceilings and floor and Acoustic Mat 2x2 panels in the back.
The oshkosh M1070 liner might be a good option for the topper lid and get rid of the Acoustic Mats.
Does the liner have adhesive backing or what are options for adhesion?

Thank-you,

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I have looked at it and considered it but the only access is small holes at visors and a couple in the door jamb. the metal is pretty thin and any expanding foam would be impossible to get good coverage without a ton of relief holes on the inner skin. And would most likely bubble the exterior. Just drilling the inner skin without damaging the outer would be difficult. I think the only insulating option is to put in a head liner and you need to buy all the plastic trim pieces for that which really takes away from it being a cucv.

I think that, and the comments about rust, sum it up. That double steel roof just isn't going to cooperate easily. Expanding foam is likely to bend the inner liner down.

Something on the underside is your best bet. If it goes wrong, it can be fixed. Put some foam between those two roof pieces and have lots of fun cleaning it out when you discover it didn't work well.

 

[country]

Requires adhesive application on back. we use a super sticky spray on product

 

[Tinstar]

Anyone have a picture of the roof cross section?
Basically a pic of the roof if it were cut in two.

Curious just how much/little room there is to work with.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I don't have a picture, but I have installed antennas in many of them. Drawing on a 30+ year old memory of when I was installing business radios and cellphones for a living....

You have a few inches in the very back, but that reduces rapidly as you go forward. It goes down to about 3/8" at the narrowest point, which is about 3/4 of the way from the back. Then it starts to open up again, but not as much as at the back.
When you drill the antenna hole at that 3/4 spot, because that's what the customer told you he wants, and then you find out there's not enough room for the antenna mount, and you have t tell the customer you need to drill where you wanted to in the first place, and he's got himself an extra hole in his roof, well, you sort of remember what you ran into. Yeah, that was the first mid-80s Chevy pickup I did, and the last time I drilled that far forward.

The customer is NOT always right!

By the way, there's tons of room to drop an antenna in the back, about 2" in front of the edge, and the coax will drop very nicely down the rear pillar, then can be run under the carpet to the front where the radio mounts under the ashtray. Well, for those who have carpet, anyway.....