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Can a bad Glow Plug box stop your alternator from charging?

Hummer Guy

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I had a bad generator on my humvee that was making a loud metal clacking noise that wasn't charging either, so I replaced it with a new generator plus regulator but even after changing it out, my RPM gauge & speedo still not working, plus my gauge has the batteries in the yellow not getting any charge. Could this be due to my bad smart box? I have a new one coming in due to this one firing my glow plugs, but is it even safe to put in a new smart box while the alternator not charging? And could this be the reason it's not charging?
 

Action

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What alternator or generator do you have? How long does needle stay in yellow? Have you checked voltage at batteries while running, at least a minute after starting?
 

MarkM

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What batteries are you running and what was the voltage of the batteries before you installed them? Don't take for granted that since something is new it's free from defect. Not saying this is the cause of the problem but you have to be mythological I.e. baby steps when diagnosing. Goid luck with the investigation.

Mark
 

TOBASH

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If you have a 200 amp alternator, there is a bypass so that electricity goes around the smart box/protective control box. That means you should be able to charge whether or not the box is good.

I would think your alternator or your wiring is suspect.
 

Hummer Guy

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What batteries are you running and what was the voltage of the batteries before you installed them? Don't take for granted that since something is new it's free from defect. Not saying this is the cause of the problem but you have to be mythological I.e. baby steps when diagnosing. Goid luck with the investigation.

Mark
Its the EverStart 1,000, when I first received the truck, it came with the 6TL's but they were dead, it has a 2020 date on them so I may charge them up and try those again
 

Hummer Guy

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If you have a 200 amp alternator, there is a bypass so that electricity goes around the smart box/protective control box. That means you should be able to charge whether or not the box is good.

I would think your alternator or your wiring is suspect.
The wiring is what I was think that's possibly causing it, or maybe I don't have something plugged in right on the regulator, the alternator and regulator is brand new, so I think its something with the wires
 

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Mogman

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The 200A has a direct charging connection to the batteries like TOBASH said, but it still needs to be exited by the PCB make sure you have 24V to the terminal marked IGN. on the regulator, if you do and the 28V output lead is at battery voltage (less than the 28V or so you would expect) than the regulator is probably bad, the most common failure point by far on the 200A, no bad glow plugs will not affect charging.
EDIT, make sure the wire marked 5A is going to the IGN. terminal on the regulator, 2A goes to the AC tap and you could also have a 568 going to the IGN. terminal
 

Glider

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I was told the exciter wire coming from start box tells the alternator to charge. My answer is yes, the box can affect the alternator. If it is not working check the exciter wire for voltage.

*Edit* My experience is with the 60amp single voltage regulator.
 

Hummer Guy

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The 200A has a direct charging connection to the batteries like TOBASH said, but it still needs to be exited by the PCB make sure you have 24V to the terminal marked IGN. on the regulator, if you do and the 28V output lead is at battery voltage (less than the 28V or so you would expect) than the regulator is probably bad, the most common failure point by far on the 200A, no bad glow plugs will not affect charging.
EDIT, make sure the wire marked 5A is going to the IGN. terminal on the regulator, 2A goes to the AC tap and you could also have a 568 going to the IGN. terminal
That's what Im going to check tomorrow, I tried to remember where things was wired at and going off a crappy picture I took
 

Mogman

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I was told the exciter wire coming from start box tells the alternator to charge. My answer is yes, the box can affect the alternator. If it is not working check the exciter wire for voltage.

*Edit* My experience is with the 60amp single voltage regulator.
Yes the exciter voltage comes from the PCB, why I said to check the IGN terminal on the regulator.
 

Mogman

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The studs are different sizes to it shouldnt be hard to figure out the IGN and AC wires.
It looks like maybe some aftermarket engineering may have been applied to the wires, 5A is the only one that will have voltage in the non running/ign. on state. 2A only goes to the ICE unless it has a tach but will have some AC voltage when running and charging.
 

Hummer Guy

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Location
United States Louisiana
The 200A has a direct charging connection to the batteries like TOBASH said, but it still needs to be exited by the PCB make sure you have 24V to the terminal marked IGN. on the regulator, if you do and the 28V output lead is at battery voltage (less than the 28V or so you would expect) than the regulator is probably bad, the most common failure point by far on the 200A, no bad glow plugs will not affect charging.
EDIT, make sure the wire marked 5A is going to the IGN. terminal on the regulator, 2A goes to the AC tap and you could also have a 568 going to the IGN. terminal
So my wires are quite scribbled, I try to make out what it says, it seems like the blue wire is the 5a and the white wire is the 2a?
 

Mogman

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If you are not sure, remove both of them, do not let them short to anything and see which one gets 24V when the switch is moved to run, that will be your 5A and it goes to the IGN. post.
 
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