Jeepsinker
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If you can't get help from anyone over your way let me know and I'll come over and help you. I'd have to make a day of it.
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Can't get steering knuckle off...
- Thread starter ke5eua
- Start date
162tcat
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Tap a small screw driver in the slot on the cone washers. It will break them loose then pull each of them out. After that it will come right out.
ke5eua
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Tried it, nothing.
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To bad you were not closer, I would do it for $50 a hour,
Screwdriver in a froze wedge retainer won't get it out, a lot of heat will kill the studs and retainer and maybe more, beating on ANYTHING will not help, a CONTROLED hitting with a BFH on anything except right around the retainer will not help, getting pissed off does not do anything but make things worse, trying to pry will make the retainer tighter and break things, getting in a hurry WILL not help..
Screwdriver in a froze wedge retainer won't get it out, a lot of heat will kill the studs and retainer and maybe more, beating on ANYTHING will not help, a CONTROLED hitting with a BFH on anything except right around the retainer will not help, getting pissed off does not do anything but make things worse, trying to pry will make the retainer tighter and break things, getting in a hurry WILL not help..
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Wire brush around the 4 bolts real good and blow clean w/ air and re-apply PB Blaster and let it sit overnight.
Put a little pressure, up, on the arm, perhaps w/ a floor jack.
Screw 4 nuts onto 4 bolts till the top of the bolt is flush w/ the top of the nut.
Tap on Nuts w/ a hammer.
Put a little pressure, up, on the arm, perhaps w/ a floor jack.
Screw 4 nuts onto 4 bolts till the top of the bolt is flush w/ the top of the nut.
Tap on Nuts w/ a hammer.
RAYZER
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Try asking code enforcement for an extension on the deadline.
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I have a lot of hard to take apart things on the farm. John Deere has a multi purpose spray lube that I like. It is a thin liquid spray that is a penetrant as well as a lubricant. It will work when others fail for me. If this fails like on an exhaust stud that is frozen to manifold I heat it slightly until a little birthday candle pushed into the threads melts into a liquid and runs into the area. If you get it too hot the candle will just flash off and be gone. You want it to just melt into the threads. Then let it set for just a little bit. The wax will expand and actually lubricate the threads and you can take it apart easily.
ke5eua
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Can't get steering knuckle off... passenger side
If the 5 ton and Deuce are the same then a good piece of pipe overtop of each stud or bolt and smacked really good should loosen the "split dowels"
I understand it has to be by Wednesday to move to the backyard. I see the drivers side got taken apart and now you are working the passenger side. But now you can see all the parts and what probably "locked" that side together. The right side should be easier?
On 10-37 you are working removing piece 16 and 20 with apparently piece #7 bushing being frozen in there.
Same thing on 10-39 but pieces are labeled 20 + 24 and the split bushing part 9 is "frozen" in there.......
All at the same time. Try wedge the plate up in three or four places, put Kroil down the grease fitting hole, is the problem on that right side that the bolts don't want to come out? Use the sledge to drive in the wedges from the sides and smack down the pipe overtop bolt heads a bit. If you can get any of your PB in there or Kroil they will loosen. Use your six point impact on them.
The thing should have been torqued up to 149 ft lbs but may not have been lubed. Mr. Corrosion has set in. The longer the Kroil has been in there the better.
Or..........am I on the wrong page again? The 361 series does not always show all the parts?
The 209 series shows the little "split dowels" on the studs and bolts that are "frozen" on and holding up the whole job.
I see now why some SS have suggested to take a small screwdriver to the split in the "split dowels. They are like roll pins in that respect but have a stud or a bolt thru them. No wonder they can lock up!
If the 5 ton and Deuce are the same then a good piece of pipe overtop of each stud or bolt and smacked really good should loosen the "split dowels"
I understand it has to be by Wednesday to move to the backyard. I see the drivers side got taken apart and now you are working the passenger side. But now you can see all the parts and what probably "locked" that side together. The right side should be easier?
On 10-37 you are working removing piece 16 and 20 with apparently piece #7 bushing being frozen in there.
Same thing on 10-39 but pieces are labeled 20 + 24 and the split bushing part 9 is "frozen" in there.......
All at the same time. Try wedge the plate up in three or four places, put Kroil down the grease fitting hole, is the problem on that right side that the bolts don't want to come out? Use the sledge to drive in the wedges from the sides and smack down the pipe overtop bolt heads a bit. If you can get any of your PB in there or Kroil they will loosen. Use your six point impact on them.
The thing should have been torqued up to 149 ft lbs but may not have been lubed. Mr. Corrosion has set in. The longer the Kroil has been in there the better.
Or..........am I on the wrong page again? The 361 series does not always show all the parts?
The 209 series shows the little "split dowels" on the studs and bolts that are "frozen" on and holding up the whole job.
I see now why some SS have suggested to take a small screwdriver to the split in the "split dowels. They are like roll pins in that respect but have a stud or a bolt thru them. No wonder they can lock up!
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jw4x4
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Kroil is good stuff. If you want something far better, mix up equal measures of acetone and automatic transmission fluid into a squirt style oil can. You will be amazed at the penetrating power of said mixture.
ke5eua
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Tried the method of smacking it on the top arm, nothing, just going to end up breaking it.
Already have one of the studs stripped, and the split dowels is on the left side of the top plate.
Love the truck but according to the wife it is fixing to go for pennies because of this.
How about put a pipe wrench on the 4 studs and unscrew them then tap, I guess I should say "tap radially" on the arm?
Maybe ask jcappeljr if he has replacement studs if you are going to waste those studs?
FWIW the instructions say to remove the lube fitting, maybe pull it and squirt down some PB
Maybe ask jcappeljr if he has replacement studs if you are going to waste those studs?
FWIW the instructions say to remove the lube fitting, maybe pull it and squirt down some PB
ke5eua
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I thought about taking the studs out, trust me. It's just getting new ones to replace them with.
I've been soaking the top for days with kroil, pb, blood, sweat, you name it
ke5eua
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I hit the steering arm at the ball point.
ke5eua
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Bottom pulled. Put the bottle jack and pushed the knuckle as far up as it would go, put a scissor jack between the axle and the steering arms and removed the bottle jack. Tried hitting the knuckle down and no joy.
Well your getting close to new axle if you can't get it off so time to get serious.
Pull the freaking studs. I think they have a allen head in the top but I doubt that
will work, probably just destroy an allen wrench. If they move a little hit them w/ PB again.
Grab a pipe wrench and a cheater, if it breaks you need a new axle though or drill those studs out UGGH!
Maybe grab a SMALL pipe wrench or LARGE channellocks and try to unscrew studs
w/o destroying the topmost threads and retap them?
Wish I was there...
Pull the freaking studs. I think they have a allen head in the top but I doubt that
will work, probably just destroy an allen wrench. If they move a little hit them w/ PB again.
Grab a pipe wrench and a cheater, if it breaks you need a new axle though or drill those studs out UGGH!
Maybe grab a SMALL pipe wrench or LARGE channellocks and try to unscrew studs
w/o destroying the topmost threads and retap them?
Wish I was there...