Can't Jump My M1009

[cam7002]

Hey, folks, I don't know what the deal is but I am having a hard time jumping my M1009 with my M1009. Yep, I got two. So I have the serviceable one running, and I pull right up to the dead one. I DO NOT HAVE A SLAVE CABLE. So I use my little jumper cables and when I hook them up, the dead one still is not turning over. The glow plugs are apparently warming up, but it won't turn over. The daggumed thing ran this morning and I was cruising 4L in the snowy outback. Got home, had lunch, went out to start her up and go cruising again and nothing. Just "click". What gives? And what am I not doing right on the jump start? Can someone break it down for me real simple? Otherwise I fear I may miss it because it seemed simple enough but it ain't workin'.

THANKS, AMIGOS!

 

[ida34]

If the batteries are really dead you need to let them charge up for a while before you try the start. Most jumper cables are much smaller than slave cables. Even with a slave cable I still needed to charge my M1009 batteries for a couple of minutes with my deuce before I could get it to start. I would suspect your cables are too small and the batteries are too dead. Good luck.

 

[cam7002]

other possibilities?

Thanks for the reply.

Folks, I don't have a charge meter, but I just bought these batteries new about two months ago. What else might be the matter? How might I troubleshoot this?

Am I hooking up the cables properly? I went from front battery to front battery. Then I tried it a couple of other ways, too.

Anyone have any idear where I can get some slave cables? Saturn is tapped out.

Thanks!
Andrew

 

[Mike_Pop]

Check your starter. If you are only getting a click when you turn the key, good chances the starter is bad.

 

[ida34]

If you are only jumping the front battery your rear battery might be the one that needs jumped. The only time you use the rear battery is to get the glow plugs warm and for the starter. Most of the time the front battery is the culprit since this is the battery that gets run down if the lights are left on or such but if the rear battery is not charged the thing will not start. Try two sets of jumper cables. One for the front battery to front battery and one from rear battery to rear battery. These are not like civy diesel trucks that only need one batter jumped. The civy batteries are connected in parallel while the military setup has the batteries in series. Connecting to one battery will charge both in a parallel set up but not in a series setup.

 

[M1075]

Am I hooking up the cables properly? I went from front battery to front battery. Then I tried it a couple of other ways, too.

I would suggest a review of the technical manuals and a few searches on Steel Soldies to better understand the 24V system on the CUCV. Jumping the front battery only gets you 12V.

 

[cam7002]

oh, the MANUALS!

OK, I'll check the manuals. I am uncertain about just hooking up rear to rear because of the way the series is set up. I was also reading on the posts elsewhere herein about the starter relay under the dash near the transfer case. Thanks for the input, friends.

 

[jimm1009]

jump starting CUCV

If you have regular jumper cables, you can remove the covers from the bus bars and go from bus bar to bus bar.
The lower & shorter bar is the negative and the upper & longer bar is the positive.
This would give full voltage of both batteries of the good truck to both batteries of the not-so-good truck.
The military plug on the grill is actually hooked to these bars too so you are actually doing the same thing but taking out four feet of battery cable voltage drop by using this method.
As mentioned before, you need to have the good truck running and all lights, fans, etc. turned off on both trucks for max transfer.
You may actually have a bad solenoid on your starter over the starter itself being bad but that is topic for another discussion.
Good luck,
Jim

 

[CUCVFAN]

The buss bars are a little hard to hook to, but jumping from negative of front battery to negative of front battery and positive of rear battery to positive of rear battery will do this as well. That way, you are jumping true 24V, so the smaller guage of the jumper cables will be less of a concern for the amperage draw required.

 

[mikes47jeep]

My method

1) Get the battery charger and a long extension cord

2) Charge A battery

3) Charge B battery

4) Start

just my

Mike

 

[reb87]

I was just at fort riley picking up some other stuff and started my new 1009 that hasnt cleared euc yet. I jumped it with my m35a2 by hooking the positive on the first battery and the negative on the second battery to the corresponding posts on the m35 batteries. Worked fine. Is the m1009 not the same 24 volt system as the m35? I havent looked at a manual yet.

 

[cam7002]

Yeah, I am thinking it must be that starter solenoid or relay because I tried the jump with the positive on the front battery and the negative on the rear battery with no success. I left the working CUCV running for half an hour while my gf and I went for a walk. All electrical accessories were off in both vehicles, and the dead vehicle had the key in the "off" position. When I returned, I turned the key and "click". I also tried pulling up on the shifter to see if there was some sort of linkage problem. That didn't work. Tried to start it in neutral, and that didn't work either. Looked at the connections save the ones on the starter and they all look good. I'll crawl under it tomorrow and take a look. I thought about disconnecting both battery cables and making direct connections with the jumper cables, one from the good CUCV's battery negative post to engine ground, one from the battery positive terminal to the starter solenoid terminal. If that doesn't get it, I could do a follow-up with the booster to the starter battery terminal, plus a jumper to the solenoid terminal.

 

[kc5mzd]

The starter should be grounded to the frame. If this wire gets loose it can cause the truck not to start or to turn over slowly like the batteries are dead even when they are fully charged. It would usually give other symptoms as it goes bad like when you hit the start button it just clicks. Hitting the start button several times might make it turn over.

When jumping 24v it is best to use 2 sets of jumper cables and jump each battery. If one battery is dead and the other is good then a series jump won't allow the bad battery to charge. If it is not a ground and the batteries are the problem then you should DEFINATLY charge each battery as soon as you can. When in series the good battery always gets all the charge and the bad or low one gets none. This will under charge the low battery and overcharge the good one ruining both.

 

[mangus580]

You really need to look at what you are doing before you blow a battery up in your face!!!

You need to jump using + on the rear battery, and - on the front battery. This is 24v.

 

[cam7002]

Mangus, that's what I did. The above was a scrivener's error (the scribe being ME in this case). I went (+) back to (+) back and (-) front to (-) front. It didn't work. I am going to check the ground wire as kc5mzd suggested. I just don't see how to use two sets of cables when things are run in series, however. I just don't understand series wiring. I understand the concept, but I don't get how you can put a negative wire on a negative post that is part of a series run of (+) to (-) to (+).

And I keep thinking about that solenoid, too.

 

[kc5mzd]

I just did some checking. The m1009 used 2 12v alternators 1 for each battery. The ground would be likely from the engine block to the battery (not both batteries!) or somewhere along that route.

If you use 2 sets of jumper cables 1 to front batteries and the other to the back batteries. This will allow 1 alternator on the running truck to charge the front battery and the other alternator on the running truck to charge the back battery. This is the best way to jump / charge the dead truck. In a series charge (1 set of jumper cables) if one of the alternators on the dead truck is bad and the battery is seriously discharged you can cause serious problems. I have seen batteries reverse polarity when one is good and the other is bad and they are charged in series. This ruins the low battery permanently. When the battery reverses polarity it makes + turn into - and - turn into +. It’s a bad thing. The best thing is to charge both batteries one at a time over night with a battery charger.

If you are just jump starting and it takes less than 5min then 1 set of jumper cables in series is fine and likely the easiest, but if you have to leave the cables on for along time (over 5min or so) then you should seriously consider using 2 sets of cables or plugging in a charger and charging one battery at a time.

 

[mangus580]

Sounds like you have a different problem. You said the batts are fairly new? Have had this truck running at all yet?

 

[kendelrio]

I thought I was gonna see a ramp, a 1009 and some carnage!

 

[underdog]

These trucks are 24volts starting.
Jumping 12 volt front batteries will not do much but flustrate you.
You need real good cables and jump the 24volt rear batteries.
cable to buss bar battery cable - ground to block both ends.

 

[cam7002]

"Sounds like you have a different problem. You said the batts are fairly new? Have had this truck running at all yet?" Mangus

Mangus, I was out running around in the snow all morning with it. It started up fine. My gf and I came in for lunch, then we were going to head out and see some more snow scenery but -- blotto! So we had to take out the other M1009 (which has a shattered back window awaiting my putting in the replacement).

I have driven the non-starter about 2000 miles over the last two months with no problems starting since I put the new batteries in (when I picked it up in Columbus, OH). I was totally perplexed when it didn't start b/c I had just put in new batteries 2 mos ago and it started fine in the morning, even though it was cold as a well digger's um ... hands.