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It's basically an epoxy urethane so painting over shouldn't be a problem.
What you have to watch out for is CARC dust released during prep. The dust is full of silica solids and epoxy components and is NOT friendly with your airway and lungs. Loose flakes should be removed and the surface washed with a scrub brush to get any loose road dust and grime out of the CARC surface.
The last M35A2 I painted was tan carc and the paint was stuck on pretty good. I gave the truck a series of scrubs and powerwashes and shot the heck out of it. The coarse finish of the CARC made the Gillespie stuck like glue. Wish I could get that semi rough fiinsh with the Gillespie
Kenny
have your local SW store put in some flattening paste. Shoots just fine.
Spend $65 and get a Northern Hydraulics pressure pot/gun combo. You will never go back to a siphon gun once you use one of them!
Kenny the CARC data sheet specifies a nozzle with a huge hole; .070" I think. You should have no problems with that. I do hear people singing the praises of a cheap gun dedicated to CARC applications and for the throw-away factor 'cause when the stuff kicks off it gets pretty tough to clean out.
The stuff is slow to paint with using a suction gun. A pressure gun is much quicker, more like an airless. I use a pressure gun for all my painting, it's what I'm used to.
Rougher than normal texture is typical but not always dependable for spotting CARC. Look for "CARC 12/03" ( or some other date) stenciled on the underside of the hood or on the inside of a door. It's to indicate finish and as a heads-up to troops so they don't go grinding or sanding on the rig without proper protection.
If you have a M1008-1009 or for that fact any of the 10 seriers trucks, since they came out in the 80's it is a good bet that it has CARC on it. That is if it still has the original paint