I have been reading a lot about CARC and it's dangers as I get ready to repaint my bobbed 5 ton. One question I have is, is it generally assumed that all military vehicles are painted with CARC? Mine looks like it's covered in old latex flat house paint. I'm not doing a restoration or show piece, I just want to repaint a custom work truck. My plan for paint prep was to wash it with degreaser and a pressure washer, scuff with a scotchbrite, wash it again and roll the paint on. I do have a couple of hard edges where the old paint has peeled off I thought I might feather down with an orbital sander but that's about it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
CARC Prep
- Thread starter twrecks
- Start date
ralbelt
Active member
- 1,056
- 9
- 38
- Location
- West Warwick, R.I.
I'm not a pro painter but when I did my M1008 about 3 years ago I power washed then hit the entire body with a DA using a good respirator, and sprayed, with CARC. In a few places where I missed with the DA I have a few peels. I would sand the entire truck, any paint job is only as good as its base and prep.
Last edited:
215Dave
Member
- 288
- 0
- 16
- Location
- Northeast Phila, PA
Paint job is only as good as the prep job. Sand everything you want paint to stick too. Most of us are using a single stage paint for our finish, so at minimum finish sanding with 220 grit to avoid seeing sanding marks in your paint job
MarcusOReallyus
Well-known member
- 4,524
- 816
- 113
- Location
- Virginia
A lot of folks here have used house paint instead of CARC. Really makes some folks mad, but it seems to work. Quite a few threads about it. You could do some reading an pick up some tips.
Have to agree on the prep. It would sure hurt to do all that work and watch it start peeling in a few weeks.
I've been reading up on the Behr paint and I think I'm going with that for paint. I'm building a work truck so Mostly I just want it all one color, it's probably gonna get dinged here and there which is why the house paint idea appeals to me. Mostly I Just want to know if there is anything special I need to know about prepping the old CARC before I paint over it. Already know I need to wear a mask, which is probably a good idea any way. Thanks for the tips.
- 4,299
- 3,132
- 113
- Location
- Fort Worth, Texas
I've used gillespie paint (CARC substitute) with great success on both CARC and flat house hold paint. Everything depends on the prepwork so don't skimp out on it. I wouldn't sand CARC unless it is a must for rust treatment or major flaking as it is toxic and you could be held liable for what happens to the dust. Take a grinder and hit the rough spots and corners, degrease hard, powerwash 2x hard, permit drying, then treat/seal the bad spots. From here it's waiting for favorable weather to tape up the glass and etc then do a coat of primer (I used gillespie again, brown was easier to work with than white and I've tried both), give it a day to sit. From there do your base color coat and give it a few hours before reapplying if needed.
I enjoyed the 3 color forest paint scheme the most so I wasn't keen on doing too many layers of green just to have more players of brown and black on top build up and lose the texture. Enough of my rambling, do what make you happy just show pics!
I enjoyed the 3 color forest paint scheme the most so I wasn't keen on doing too many layers of green just to have more players of brown and black on top build up and lose the texture. Enough of my rambling, do what make you happy just show pics!
tommys2patrick
Well-known member
- 700
- 272
- 63
- Location
- Livermore, Colorado
Nice work truck. Way to repurpose!
- 3,801
- 2,829
- 113
- Location
- Peoria, Illinois
Uhmmmm, that should pull that stuck prius out, I'm almost positive of it! Well, be sure to anchor off. LOL Wear respirator, scuff sand CARC and other, and shoot with paint of choice.
God bless,
Tony
God bless,
Tony
Lild
Member
- 68
- 2
- 8
- Location
- Nashville,nc
If u use a da sander on it, definitely use a respirator. I am a professional painter, & the urthane clears we use r no joke, so the crap thats on these r worse for the lungs.
A minimum of 400 grit auto motive grade sand paper is needed weather u use da or wet sand. (For those hard lines)
Washing it with degreaser, then wet sand with a red scotch brite pad throughly going over all areas including the edges og each panel. Any shinny pots left will have peeling issue later.
tip.....u can get whats called scuff & stuff or ajax in a can (powder). Put this on the pad, it will help clean, as well help cut into the paint. A rinse as u go is a must. Do not let it dry on paint. White water marks can bleed back thru.
wash throughly with dish soap or powder tide mixed with hot water. Do not use carwash soap.
dry, tape, before painting, you'll want to use a wax & grease cleaner, ( auto pain store). & wipe all areas to be painted.
& no matter what kind of paint u use, take in consideration of the weather, as in the temp u paint in. The colder it is te longer it will take to dry. I u can have @ least 70 degrees in the shop would be preferable.
A minimum of 400 grit auto motive grade sand paper is needed weather u use da or wet sand. (For those hard lines)
Washing it with degreaser, then wet sand with a red scotch brite pad throughly going over all areas including the edges og each panel. Any shinny pots left will have peeling issue later.
tip.....u can get whats called scuff & stuff or ajax in a can (powder). Put this on the pad, it will help clean, as well help cut into the paint. A rinse as u go is a must. Do not let it dry on paint. White water marks can bleed back thru.
wash throughly with dish soap or powder tide mixed with hot water. Do not use carwash soap.
dry, tape, before painting, you'll want to use a wax & grease cleaner, ( auto pain store). & wipe all areas to be painted.
& no matter what kind of paint u use, take in consideration of the weather, as in the temp u paint in. The colder it is te longer it will take to dry. I u can have @ least 70 degrees in the shop would be preferable.
I'd go with CARC. It's suprisingly easy to shoot and clean up (the water based stuff).
I've shot several vehicles with tan CARC and am happy with the results. BTW, i have areas peeling here and there. It's the paint below the CARC that's letting go...go figure.
I've shot several vehicles with tan CARC and am happy with the results. BTW, i have areas peeling here and there. It's the paint below the CARC that's letting go...go figure.
Lild
Member
- 68
- 2
- 8
- Location
- Nashville,nc
Thats when a complete strip to metal is needed. Which sucks
acesneights1
Member
- 1,449
- 22
- 20
- Location
- CT
What PPE do you need to spray the newer CARC ?
61sleepercab
New member
- 622
- 3
- 0
- Location
- Walton, West Virginia
CARC paint said to contain silica which when sanded and made into dust is bad news for lungs. Silicosis is silica (like black lung for miners) in lungs ,sickened and killed tunnelers at Hawks Nest West Virginia tunnel. Wear good respirator if sanding and making dust. Mark
acesneights1
Member
- 1,449
- 22
- 20
- Location
- CT
What about PPE for spraying the new generation of CARC ?
Where did you get you CARC from? -I've been having a little dificulty finding someone with it in stock, or getting them to call me back. I'm looking for Sand, which it seems noone has... I may havve to switch to Tan.
Thanks!