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Caterpillar 3126B oil cooler problems

Keith Knight

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That was my next question where you’re getting the analysis done. I’ll have to check it out. What’s the cost each time?
 

aw113sgte

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Did this on my C7 today, went smoothly, except the studs wanted to turn into the manifold a little when using new nuts. Studs are now slightly inset from nut end now, this is exacerbated by the thicker grimspeed gasket. Cooler plate was warped about .015" but I was able to flatten it by putting a little pressure on it. Since the thickness measured even and the plate is flexible, it doesn't make sense to cut it flat as bolts will be putting a ton more force on everything. Bolts were very lightly torqued, probably less than 10ftlbs, likely due to gasket compression over time. Gasket was much less stuck in the center area.

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87cr250r

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Selecting a rubber that is compatible with hot water and oil is very challenging. These gaskets are often Aramid fiber with a NBR rubber binder. The NBR binder is not the best choice of material for hot water.

In a case like this you may be better off using an anerobic gasket maker such as Loctite 515 instead of a gasket.
 

Ronmar

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Port angeles wa
Selecting a rubber that is compatible with hot water and oil is very challenging. These gaskets are often Aramid fiber with a NBR rubber binder. The NBR binder is not the best choice of material for hot water.

In a case like this you may be better off using an anerobic gasket maker such as Loctite 515 instead of a gasket.
Only one gasket sees water/coolant, the cooler to block gasket, the other gasket only sees oil filter housing side to cooler outer face…
 

GeneralDisorder

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Portland, OR
The new gaskets from CAT are coated metal. No more aramid.

And Loctite 515 is a beast to clean off and not my first choice. No thanks. I would rather use Hylomar. But the gaskets CAT sells now are installed dry.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
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Location
Rodeo, Ca
It's not the Aramid that deteriorates, it's the rubber binder.

I have always found that Loctite 515 is easy to remove with a razor blade.

It's good to hear that Cat improved the gasket. I'm about to get 4 new C7.1 engines in my fleet.

Thicker gaskets of the same material or construction are only going to exacerbate compression set issues.
 

jaws4518

Cold Beer
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Abilene, Texas
There is so much to digest on SS. It's great! I just wish I had more time to read all the topics which are so helpful in solving maintenance and upgrade issues. I notice you have the AC compressor mounted. You also have a battery disconnect module on your generator. Is that correct? I want to do the same on mine. I will search the forum on those additions. I could only find one AC compressor mounting kit on the internet. $1400 or so. Is that it? Please copy me on any forum posts if something comes to mind on these, otherwise I will search for them.
 

GeneralDisorder

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Portland, OR
There is so much to digest on SS. It's great! I just wish I had more time to read all the topics which are so helpful in solving maintenance and upgrade issues. I notice you have the AC compressor mounted. You also have a battery disconnect module on your generator. Is that correct? I want to do the same on mine. I will search the forum on those additions. I could only find one AC compressor mounting kit on the internet. $1400 or so. Is that it? Please copy me on any forum posts if something comes to mind on these, otherwise I will search for them.
Not sure on the purpose behind a battery disconnect at the alternator. A1+ trucks already have a battery disconnect at the rear of the battery box.

AC compressor is normally mounted on the drivers side, not the passenger side. But there's multiple ways to do it. The bigger problem is the cab evaporator unit. Surplus dried up with Ukraine since those parts come from A1P2 trucks. And new from Red Dot they are ~$6,300 and there's a minimum order quantity of 20 units. Here's my notes on AC install:

 

jaws4518

Cold Beer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Abilene, Texas
Not sure on the purpose behind a battery disconnect at the alternator. A1+ trucks already have a battery disconnect at the rear of the battery box.

AC compressor is normally mounted on the drivers side, not the passenger side. But there's multiple ways to do it. The bigger problem is the cab evaporator unit. Surplus dried up with Ukraine since those parts come from A1P2 trucks. And new from Red Dot they are ~$6,300 and there's a minimum order quantity of 20 units. Here's my notes on AC install:

Thanks! Don't mean to get off topic here. I will followup on that AC thread. I have a RedDot evaporator and condenser ready to go. I just need the compressor mount, or build one myself. That kit on eBay is too pricey for me without knowing more about it and the installation thereof. That is more than I paid for the RedDot AC kit new 5 years ago. I will post that install project when I have time. I installed it on my M929A1 using the RedDot radiator mount condenser which I had to custom mount. Going to move that unit to MVT and replace with one of the wall mount blower/evaporator.

As far as the disconnect.., is that what it is. I just assumed that at first glace. :)
 
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