Central FL M1031 project

[deank]

Thanks for the input. I agree with you. For now, i will change the hoses and bleed the system. I will have the rotors turned and new pads( there is a squeal when braking.

 

[Mullaney]

Thanks for the input. I agree with you. For now, i will change the hoses and bleed the system. I will have the rotors turned and new pads( there is a squeal when braking.

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I think that is a good plan.

 

[deank]

Good evening all. A lot of good progress made lately.
the M1031 truck box come back from sandblasting tomorrow.

got a lot of work done learning to sand and paint this weekend.

replacement cab corners and floor pans are ordered.
Amazing what was used for body repairs by the Army

 

[deank]

Missed some pics…

The paint from Rapcoparts works great. Not a bad job I think for rattlecans.

 

[Mullaney]

Missed some pics…

The paint from Rapcoparts works great. Not a bad job I think for rattlecans.
View attachment 872700View attachment 872701View attachment 872702

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RAPCO is pretty good stuff. I have been impressed and now that I have some rattlecan paint on one of my trucks that is over a year old - I can speak from experience. It looks as good as the day it was painted...

Yeah, some of the body work that the military has done looks pretty sad. But is it really them? They have the ability to just replace an entire door by pulling parts from another vehicle - or ordering new. Everything "green" with a motor in it that I own so far has been in civilian hands before I owned it...

 

[deank]

This time they used jeep tie down data plates to repair the cab corners.

 

[cucvrus]

This time they used jeep tie down data plates to repair the cab corners.

The Genius of it. And I would rethink using a grinder to remove paint down to the bare metal. I have never tried to strip anything down to the bare metal with a grinder. You are cutting some nasty grooves in that surface and will never be able to replace all the good adhesion that was on that cab from the factory. I would use 80 grit sand paper on a DA NOT a rotary sander or grinder. All you need to do is smooth the surface and feather in all the rough spots. My fear is you will overheat the surface and cause warps and uneven surfaces to paint and in the end it will appear very rough and NOT hold up well. 99.9% of a paint job is surface preparation and proper sealing to get a long lasting weather resistant paint job. And you do want a good sealer because flat paint is porous and also provides no protection against moisture. Look at older CUCV's that have original paint they are rusting beneath the paint because of moisture. Just saying you want a professional grade automotive sealer. Non sanding sealer. Good Luck. Rattle cans do not provide enough mils of paint to provide a permanent paint job. They are excellent for temporary touch up and on vehicles you want to keep touching up. Take Care. If its worth the effort to do the job in the first place. It is worth the effort to do the job right the first time. I am not perfect but continually strive to improve my processes. Carry On.

 

[deank]

Very wise words sir. I will endeavor to do it right.

 

[msgjd]

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RAPCO is pretty good stuff. I have been impressed and now that I have some rattlecan paint on one of my trucks that is over a year old - I can speak from experience. It looks as good as the day it was painted...

good to know... paint sure isn't nothing like it used to be .. Last total repaint done was a loader/backhoe in 2008 using an expensive automotive top-brand of Mack Red .. Within 5 years the red turned purple-ish, today it is surface rust... Very disappointed. Have a '51 truck cab that got sprayed the normal number of coats of "temporary until i get time to finish the whole truck with the right paint" Rustoleum gloss black with dupont enamel reducer in 1990 .. Granted it sits under the pines and gets sun only briefly every day, but here it has been 32 years and it still shines .. A whole truck we sprayed with same reducer and Rustoleum fire engine red in 2005 still looks good but fading, Rustoleum paint ingredients certainly changed between 1990 and 2005 .. Been so disappointed in paint since 2008 I have not even bothered (but want to)

 

[Mullaney]

good to know... paint sure isn't nothing like it used to be .. Last total repaint done was a loader/backhoe in 2008 using an expensive automotive top-brand of Mack Red .. Within 5 years the red turned purple-ish, today it is surface rust... Very disappointed. Have a '51 truck cab that got sprayed the normal number of coats of "temporary until i get time to finish the whole truck with the right paint" Rustoleum gloss black with dupont enamel reducer in 1990 .. Granted it sits under the pines and gets sun only briefly every day, but here it has been 32 years and it still shines .. A whole truck we sprayed with same reducer and Rustoleum fire engine red in 2005 still looks good but fading, Rustoleum paint ingredients certainly changed between 1990 and 2005 .. Been so disappointed in paint since 2008 I have not even bothered (but want to)

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Way back when, Dupont Imron - in my opinion - was the best quality paint that could be bought. It still had a wet, freshly painted look ten years later in any color.

As best I can tell, the "improvements to paint" these days was because of the reduction of VOC's. It seems that the EPA can "fix" just about anything...

 

[msgjd]

As best I can tell, the "improvements to paint" these days was because of the reduction of VOC's. It seems that the EPA can "fix" just about anything...

those VOCs are what made my uncle a very funny guy at the end of any day he had been in the paint booth .. He worked in that shop after the navy from 1945 to 1985, lived to be 98

Should not infer horrible things about the EPA, They are from the government. They are here to help. LOL

 

[msgjd]

Way back when, Dupont Imron - in my opinion - was the best quality paint that could be bought. It still had a wet, freshly painted look ten years later in any color.

Never could justify the expense of the Imron on trucks etc that were exposed to potential jobsite damage everytime out . . But I know that was really good stuff, a friend of mine did a lot of custom hotrod and truck repaints for people with it .. The fanciest good stuff we ever used was good-old DuPont Centari , no idea if it's still around. Have a few partial-gallons still on the shelf from the late-80's, I turn them over from time to time. Don't know why I would ever think I will ever have time or the facilities again to ever spray, but an old habit I guess .. Although a "cheap" oil-base paint of limited colors, I really liked how the gallons of Rustoleum would lay down using the DuPont reducer on the every-day const equipment that we had / have... It was cheap, durable, not fancy enough to take to a truck show, but it did the job and held up .. Oh, that reminds me of a funny story...

The Rustoleum "fire engine red" truck mentioned in another post : The paint had just cured and it seemed to glow, almost too red.. I had a touched-up JD 420 up on its back and a restored McCormick SWD-6 (done with DuPont) riding a tagalong behind it, headed to a little town carnival that was also hosting an antique tractor pull .. I knew there was a parade in town and I was barely going to beat it and surely didn't want to get stuck behind it, so i took a side road to hopefully just get ahead of the parade. Looking at my watch it was gonna be real close because a '55 IH R-model gas doesn't fly well with two tractors and a trailer, let alone empty .. As luck would have it, the parade was starting to move and a cop saw the predicament and gave me a wave to go.. Thus I beat the parade, but while pulling out onto Main Street , it landed me right smack in front of the judges stand (sitting on a decorated farm wagon) and the obligatory shoot-ton of people lining both sides of the road .. Somebody yelled for me to stop, I am thinking "shoot I am in trouble now, " and this lady comes down off the wagon and runs over to hand me a nice little parade participant trophy... Well all I wanted to do is get over to the little carnival spot to get the truck in there before it got too crowded! Still have that trophy in its glove box

 

[msgjd]

One thing i ran across with "today's" replacement brake hoses is that they can swell up internally, and this includes OEM as well as ones from NAPA and we all can suspect where they were made. This situation may be well-known by everyday mechanics, but it had me perplexed thinking the new rotors weren't machined right (another known issue) , until I heard about the hoses... You will not see external evidence of anything wrong and the swelling doesn't bother when the brakes are applied .. However, they will be very slow to release or they may not release fully at all until enough time passes... This of course does wonders to rotors and drums

 

[msgjd]

99.9% of a paint job is surface preparation

could never be said any better

 

[deank]

Well, school has started. So my time to play in the shop is growing is growing scarce. Made good progress today. I am trying very hard while sanding to not get down to metal. Moderate success… but finished the rough sanding of both doors, removed both doors and finished priming the brush guard.

 

[deank]

Good evening all. Got some fun done on the M1031 this weekend.

got the spot welds drilled out of the floor pans Saturday, prepped to be replaced. Started taking all the paint off the trim for the grill. Removed the headlight buckets to be cleaned sanded and painted. Progressing slowly.

A question for the collective. Does anyone have a valid part number for a fuel filler hose to fit a replacement fuel filler neck and the fuel tank?

 

[deank]

Hello all!

It has been a few minutes since I have had time to play outside. Today I managed to clean and prime ine headlight bucket and cut out the passenger floor board. Hope to have more time soon. this will be a good opportunity to power wash the trans and transfer once I have both floorboards out. That will be a good prep for replacing the trans mounts. Probably going to R&R everything anyway to clean and reseal.

 

[deank]

Hello All. I managed to have some more fun time outside. I have also determined that my skills at painting are very much lacking and I will be seeking professional help. I did manage to get the front and rear windshields out as well as remove the hood and front cowl. I think one of the wiper pivots is cracked.
It was nice to get all of the debris out of the cowl area. Also happy to note that there is very little rust around the windshields.
The NOS rear bumper came in last week. Very happy about that.

 

[Mullaney]

Hello All. I managed to have some more fun time outside. I have also determined that my skills at painting are very much lacking and I will be seeking professional help. View attachment 880787View attachment 880788View attachment 880789View attachment 880790View attachment 880792I did manage to get the front and rear windshields out as well as remove the hood and front cowl. I think one of the wiper pivots is cracked. View attachment 880791View attachment 880793View attachment 880794
It was nice to get all of the debris out of the cowl area. Also happy to note that there is very little rust around the windshields.
The NOS rear bumper came in last week. Very happy about that.

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Best part about painting a green truck is that it gets better the second or third time that you do it. It will be nice to have the windshield out when you install the dash pad too. Paint and Sand, Paint and Sand, Paint and Sand... It gets better - I swear it. Having a nice paint gun and a consistent stream of air going to it. 35 to 40 pounds of good dry clean air is really important too. Some folks use Wagner "paint slingers" like you would use on a house or a fence. That works too if they are CLEAN and if they aren't they suck - a lot!


Looks to me like you are making good progress!

 

[ezgn]

Hello All. I managed to have some more fun time outside. I have also determined that my skills at painting are very much lacking and I will be seeking professional help. View attachment 880787View attachment 880788View attachment 880789View attachment 880790View attachment 880792I did manage to get the front and rear windshields out as well as remove the hood and front cowl. I think one of the wiper pivots is cracked. View attachment 880791View attachment 880793View attachment 880794
It was nice to get all of the debris out of the cowl area. Also happy to note that there is very little rust around the windshields.
The NOS rear bumper came in last week. Very happy about that.

Alternative flex fuel floor board option. All you have to do when you want to save fuel is flex your leg muscles and get exercise at the same time. Yuba Duba Doo.