Changed ALT 1 Belt

[ssdvc]

My Gen 1 belt give it up a few days ago. Read the wiki and went to NAPA and picked up a 15585 V-belt. It was about an inch too long. Brought it back and got a 15575. Fit perfectly, right in the middle of the adjustment window. Your results may vary.

All belts are new and I don't know how to get the Gen 2 belt to stop squealing on start up. She only makes noise if the Glow Plugs are cycling, and only if I give her throttle a blip while cold.

Along the same lines, my Gen 2 light will stay on and the volt meter remains in the yellow until I blip the throttle, and again, only upon cold start up or if she has been sitting for a little while. Once I do that all is good with the electrical (I think) and all lights are dark lights. Anyone hazard a guess as to why she does that? I am thinking an alternator rebuild is in my future.

Thanks.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I always wait for the plugs to finish cycling before starting. I ignore the wait light completely. The throttle blip on Gen 2 is perfectly normal. Thanks for the tip on the Gen 1 belt part number. There is some stuff in the wiki which is wacky.

 

[cpf240]

The "throttle blip" to get one, or both, GEN lights to go out on start-up is normal, and even mentioned in the TMs. When started cold, both my GEN lights are on, and a small blip will get GEN 2 to go out, and a bit more of a blip will get GEN 1 to go out. Once warm, only the GEN 1 light needs the blip to get it to go out.

 

[swinters]

I always wait for the plugs to finish cycling before starting. I ignore the wait light completely. The throttle blip on Gen 2 is perfectly normal. Thanks for the tip on the Gen 1 belt part number. There is some stuff in the wiki which is wacky.

You should start the engine soon after the wait light goes out. The glow plugs need to be cooled by the fuel injecting across them or they'll swell and eventually burn out. You really don't want to have to try to get swollen glow plugs out if you can help it.

 

[cpf240]

You should start the engine soon after the wait light goes out. The glow plugs need to be cooled by the fuel injecting across them or they'll swell and eventually burn out. You really don't want to have to try to get swollen glow plugs out if you can help it.

Can't speak to the cooling of the plugs with the fuel, but can say that the glow plugs often cycle in the "after glow" period and the WTS light is off at that time.

 

[swinters]

My Gen 1 belt give it up a few days ago. Read the wiki and went to NAPA and picked up a 15585 V-belt. It was about an inch too long. Brought it back and got a 15575. Fit perfectly, right in the middle of the adjustment window. Your results may vary.

All belts are new and I don't know how to get the Gen 2 belt to stop squealing on start up. She only makes noise if the Glow Plugs are cycling, and only if I give her throttle a blip while cold.

Along the same lines, my Gen 2 light will stay on and the volt meter remains in the yellow until I blip the throttle, and again, only upon cold start up or if she has been sitting for a little while. Once I do that all is good with the electrical (I think) and all lights are dark lights. Anyone hazard a guess as to why she does that? I am thinking an alternator rebuild is in my future.

Thanks.

The squeal you're hearing is belt slippage. To be 100% sure you can dribble a bit of water on the belt to see if it makes the squeal stop temporarily. Is the belt sitting deep into the groove of the alternator pulley? The back of the belt (widest part that has the part number printed on it) should be higher than the alternator pulley edges, or at least even. The pulleys wear out or an incorrect one sometimes gets installed during rebuild and have to be replaced so that could be the problem.

 

[swinters]

Can't speak to the cooling of the plugs with the fuel, but can say that the glow plugs often cycle in the "after glow" period and the WTS light is off at that time.

You're 100% correct. It'll do that for a set period, which is designed to keep from overheating the glow plugs. It assumes the engine is running though. If you look at how your glow plugs are situated you'll see that they're right below the injectors. The Army had a heck of a problem on both the CUCVs and HMMWVs because the radios were initially wired so that the ignition had to be in the "on" or "run" position to monitor them and they were pulling cylinder heads like crazy because of it. Not sure what Bozo came up with that plan but I'll but they had never been in the field. They assumed the radios would only be used when the engine was running...

 

[Warthog]

The stock pulley is 77mm. Many have been changed out over the years to a 66mm. Smaller pulley means a smaller belt. Also the pulleys can and do wear out. A worn out pulley can cause a belt squeal.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?80505-Alternator-Pulley

The parts breakdown is in the TM 9-2320-289-34P manuals. When looking for parts use both the -20 and the -34

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/47...or-pulley.html

GM 1978068

Looks like it is going to be a 77mm pulley and the closest NAPA has is this one.

It is 3 1/16" x 3/8" v-belt groove.

NAPA - RAY 13068P​

 

[ssdvc]

Thanks Warthog. I was just about to ask where I can buy some new pulleys that would fit. I check the local NAPA tomorrow and see what they have. I can't stand the squealing.