silverstate55
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The run-flats have a bead lock built in to their base; if your tire bead comes off the wheel, something is seriously wrong.I just discovered that the Michelin XZL's I bought have run flat inserts in them. I was wondering why they were so stinking heavy. They also have MRAP rims that need to come off. My questions related to tire changes: 1) any clever tricks getting these rims out above letting the air out first and brute force? 2) having no experience with run flats, can you fix a leaker in the field or do you just drive on it until you get back to your garage? Reduced speed without air pressure? I would think the bead may want to jump off not knowing how these fit/load yet. They will help the jacking height issue for sure.
If you have a forklift or front-end loader, this will help you apply downward force to remove the tire/run-flat from the inner wheel half. Make sure you support the inner wheel half with wood blocks or something that won't damage the inner wheel half, as this gives enough room for the tire & run-flat insert to be removed downwards using gravity as your friend. Otherwise, you can do as I have: tire spoons with cheater pipes for more leverage, and LOTS of dish soap or tire lube to encourage the run-flat to come off the wheel. Mine aren't too bad as compared to others, as I've removed rust & debris from the inside of the wheels...if you've got any rust or debris build-up, it will be a bear to get it off. A 12-pound sledge helps motivate the run-flat off the wheel as well, if used judiciously.
ETA: I never strike the tire with anything; I always put a large slab of wood (2x6, 2x12, whatever you have) to prevent damage to the sidewall of the tire. When using a forklift or front-end loader bucket to press against the tire to try to remove it from a wheel, I again use the wood to prevent damage to the sidewall from the metal being pressed against it.
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