Changing oil in deuce for first time

[Quintus]

Hey all, I've been on this board for awhile now and have had my deuce for a few years (only have driven it really occasionally), but I figure it's time for an oil change. I still consider myself very new to this hobby and so still have many many questions to tackle. Anyway, I've done some searching on this site and have only found a few of the answers I was looking for- so, my details and questions are:

~ I have a 1969 Jeep Kaiser M35A2 with a turbo LDT multi-fuel engine

* What kind of oil filter should I be purchasing for my oil change? (and can I get these at a local Napa or do I need to special order them somewhere?)
* I'm seeing that the oil I should get is the Rotella 15w40, correct? And how much to purchase? Looks like everyone suggests the 5 gal bucket
* Also, what's this that I'm reading about taking the OLD oil, filtering it (through coffee filters or what?), and adding it to the fuel tank?

I work with tools all the time as I'm a commercial electrician (aka: Inside Wireman) and fix my own cars regularly so have a bit of mechanical aptitude obviously. With my normal vehicles though, it's open oil cap, pull drain plug, then pull filter, and reverse. Just want to make sure there's not more to the deuce than that and I'm not missing any steps (already looks like there are two oil drain plugs- so any other steps I need to know?). And I caught through searching here that oftentimes there is more than 5 gallons of waste oil when doing the change?

I have some TM's in my garage that I plan on looking through this weekend to maybe get some more details, but wanted to get some more updated knowledge here, advise, and any youtube vids or whatnot that folks may have.

 

[Squirt-Truck]

There are several vendors here that have oil filters and there is a parts cross reference.
You will not go wrong with the Rotella.
Old oil filtration is a full search function. Needs to be better than a coffee filter.
How long has it been since the oil was changed???????
If you have more than the listed amount of oil, was that 22 or 24 quarts, you have other issues such as a leaking FDC or HH O-ring.
The filters will drain themselves, (for the most part) if allow to sit for an hour or so when warm.
Be aware the drain plug is a little larger than the on on a car, so the flow is a little bigger, just be prepared. Also, there are 2 drain plugs. And as always, strain the old oil to look for any stray pieces that should not be there.

Pictures are always fun...

 

[Blendmaster2002]

Hello Napa also has the filters takes two Napa Gold Part Number: FIL 1133 used to be #51133 use that number as interchange number now they must have took the 5 off, oil is 15w-40 Diesel oil takes 22qrts.
Instructions found here:
TM9-2320-361-24-1 Field and Sustainment Maintenance 1 of 2. (Later Edition TM) Found here on SS.
Section: Engine Oil Filter and Body Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WP 0044 00
Have fun!

This thread will help you for this and other stuff too: Deuce Parts Quick Reference Spreadsheet
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-Quick-Reference-Spreadsheet&referrerid=19939

 

[SteveKuhn]

I'm pretty sure that the NAPA filters come with replacement gaskets. Make sure you get the old ones out and if you've not done it yourself before, beware that the guy before you might have put in doubles. Mine had.

We get good deals on the Rotella gallons locally at Walmart. Do take a few minutes to read through the recommended procedure for draining so you get it all. It's a good idea to have (2) 5 gal buckets for the job. Although the filters should drain (mine did), there's always a chance that the drainback won't be good on yours so do it someplace where the oil caught in the filter canisters won't cause you trouble. There are posts here that say to wait anywhere from an hour to a day and then the first time is still a crap shoot.

By all means, do it the traditional way the 1st time so you can see why spin on filters are so popular..

Steve

 

[sandcobra164]

Just did my annual oil change. You've got it spot on. Only difference for me is I have spin on oil filters. Drive truck till it's at operating temp for about 10 minutes to heat the oil, shut it down, drain front sump into 5 gallon bucket, drain bucket in to waste oil settling tank, drain rear sump into bucket, go back to front sump and drain what has drained from filters, reinstall drain plugs, remove and replace filters, fill with 22 quarts of oil. The filters I use are Napa 1831 or 1794. They don't have anti drainback valves but you still get pressure quicker than stock as they hold less oil than the factory canisters. Mine has oil pressure within 5 seconds or so when started cold, I'm good with that opposed to the stock wait time. I like the non drainback filters when it comes oil change time. Much less mess.

 

[oklacowboy]

And to answer your other question. Your truck will run on waste motor oil. So filter it through a pump system with 1 micron filters a couple of times to make sure the oil is clean, then add the oil to your fuel tank. The engine will run on it, burn it off as fuel and you don't have to dispose of it. Consider it a bonus to proper maintenance that your fuel level will go up letting you play just a little bit more!

 

[Z71]

I'm pretty sure that the NAPA filters come with replacement gaskets.

They come only with the bottom gasket, not the top small one that fits under the head of the bolt. I have not been able to find that little one anywhere. Any ideas?

 

[Z71]

And to answer your other question. Your truck will run on waste motor oil. So filter it through a pump system with 1 micron filters a couple of times to make sure the oil is clean, then add the oil to your fuel tank. The engine will run on it, burn it off as fuel and you don't have to dispose of it. Consider it a bonus to proper maintenance that your fuel level will go up letting you play just a little bit more!

I mixng used motor oil with diesel fuel really a good idea? If yes, then how much per tankfull of diesel is permissible?

 

[mobileauto2000]

I mixng used motor oil with diesel fuel really a good idea? If yes, then how much per tankfull of diesel is permissible?

If its filtered you can dump it all in. I run my truck on 100% waste oil.

 

[oklacowboy]

I mixng used motor oil with diesel fuel really a good idea? If yes, then how much per tankfull of diesel is permissible?

Assuming you have the standard issue A2 multifuel in your truck, yep. I do not believe the A3's cat engine will be happy if you play with alternative fuels however. For the A2, you can either run on 100% of the following: Diesel, Kerosene, Jet Fuel, Waste or New Motor Oil and even Automatic Transmission fluid (as long as its CLEAN oil). There are a few others im sure, but those are your standards. You may also run Gasoline as long as it is mixed with oil to lubricate the IP. That said, you may also mix any of the fuels at any time in the same tank. Your truck should run happily on the mix.

Some even go with veggie oil (you can filter waste veggie oil from about every restaurant in the world) Though I've heard mixed reviews about the old rubber lines and seals in our trucks. Any diesel can run on veggie oil if done properly. Your only real concern is that it solidifies when cold so it must be heated to prevent this. And it is REALLY dirty when you get it.

 

[DieselBob]

You can save yourself some mess if you pull plug #16 in the diagram it will drain the remaining oil that is in the oil filter cans and mount.

 

[Quintus]

So... just for clarity's sake... I can filter even my normal automotive oil and use that as well (10w30 and 5w20)? And also, thank you all who have chimed in with your advice, it is really appreciated.

 

[sandcobra164]

Yes you can and should. It helps to offset the 10 mpg your truck likely gets. I collect waste oil from all my friends to include used motor oil of all grades, used auto transmission fluid, used gear oil with one exception, (tranny oil sometimes has a good bit of brass in it that would likely clog a filter rather quickly), and stale gasoline to include 2 stroke mixed gas. I shy away from waste veggie oil due to my lack of a heating source and it's been known to have a high content of moisture and I get enough WMO from my friends to not have to process it. The Deuce loves it all. I put all my waste oil in a settling tank, filter it and then pump into it's fuel tank. I also have got a spin on fuel filter in place of the primary that is rated at 5 microns and it has a water drain at the bottom. The only problem you'll run into with WMO is you'll blow more smoke out of the exhaust stack. I rode behind my truck a few weeks ago on the way to a parade, I was driving Riddle's M923 and Atomic was driving my Deuce and you could easily notice when he stepped on the throttle. A nice cloud of greyish black smoke would emit but it would clear up at steady speed cruising. You could also tell when he grabbed a higher gear as well but once in 5th and rolling, it stayed clear until a hill.

 

[Happyland1410]

This is probably not very common, but when I did the first oil change in my deuce, one of the drain plugs did not have the copper seal on it. It was not leaking but had been put on very tight. Luckily I was able to rob one off of my parts truck since I sure didn't want to take a chance of having a leak after putting in 22 qts of new oil. Erik's Military has these seals for $1.30 so it might not be a bad idea to have a couple of these on hand before doing the oil change.

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/oilpandrsefo.html

 

[3dAngus]

I just tried to order from Eriks. It says it uses two per deuce, so I put down two just for the heck of it. The total without shipping was $2.60

Then, their shipping calculator gave prices of anywhere from $14 to $73.

They will both fit flatly in a regular envelope. I refuse to believe UPS would charge anywhere near that for these little copper seals. Kinda crazy. Killed the order, but thanks. Maybe later.

 

[welldigger]

3dangus- call eriks instead of using the website for small items like that. He's a super guy and would probably stick small parts in an envelope for you. As to changing the oil....that has been layed out pretty well.

As far as burning alternative fuels I believe a bit of clarification is in order. First I suggest swinging by the alternative fuels forum. First thing- when burning anything other than diesel I would strongly suggest installing a pyro meter. Wmo burns with more btu than diesel. Secondly if your serious about wmo then filtering is better than nothing but not really good enough either. Filters for the most part are not absolute meaning they don't catch as much as you think. You should invest in a centrifuge setup. Those remove EVERYTHING down to a half micron. Including water. But hey its your injector pump.

 

[TehTDK]

What about the age old suggestion of sticking a magnet to side/bottom of the oil sump to pickup any all splints of metal etc?. If you remove the magnet the metal splinters would drain out with the oil but would still enable you to see that there was something wrong with the engine as you are not supposed to have any amount of splinters or metal filings in your oil sump etc.

 

[mobileauto2000]

What about the age old suggestion of sticking a magnet to side/bottom of the oil sump to pickup any all splints of metal etc?. If you remove the magnet the metal splinters would drain out with the oil but would still enable you to see that there was something wrong with the engine as you are not supposed to have any amount of splinters or metal filings in your oil sump etc.

A magnet on the end of the drain plug would work.
You would be able to see what accumulates and clean it.

Just putting one on the oil pan or sump is a bad idea. First you cannot see what is accumulating. Second it will most likely not come out with the oil as when you remove the magnet. The area may still be slightly magnetized along with the partials so they will resist movement. And if there is accumulation and you remove the magnet it could pull lose all at once and damage the oil pump on the way to the filter.

All engines produce metal dust as things wear. The oil filter collects this and it is removed when the filter is changed.

You often see magnets in differentials and transmissions even automatic transmissions. These have magnets because they don't have filters. Even most automatic transmissions what is called a filter is just a fancy screen to catch big particles, so a magnet is used to trap and hold the fine steel particles.

(Acts 21:25 [NKJV])
“But concerning the Gentiles who believe, we have written and decided that they should observe no such thing, except that they should keep themselves from things offered to idols, from blood, from things strangled, and from sexual immorality.”

(for the rest of the story see a bible near you)

 

[cattlerepairman]

This is probably not very common, but when I did the first oil change in my deuce, one of the drain plugs did not have the copper seal on it. It was not leaking but had been put on very tight. Luckily I was able to rob one off of my parts truck since I sure didn't want to take a chance of having a leak after putting in 22 qts of new oil. Erik's Military has these seals for $1.30 so it might not be a bad idea to have a couple of these on hand before doing the oil change.

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/oilpandrsefo.html

Here is a little trick if you are in a pinch and have to re-use any copper seal ring:
- hold the ring gently with needle-nose pliers and heat it up with a blow torch until the ring glows orange
- set it down and let it cool
- gently sand/polish the ring on fine sand paper on a flat surface until shiny
- now re use the ring

The purpose of heating the copper is to expand it. It causes the ring to return to its original shape as much as possible. The copper ring seals by being crushed and deformed, thereby adapting to the sealing surfaces.