- 756
- 4
- 18
- Location
- C.G. JMTC MICHIGAN
I was going to go the work shop to take photos of my alt for him.
Thank you Warthog.
Thank you Warthog.
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charging/alternator PROBLEMS
- Thread starter jager07m1008
- Start date
Barrman
Well-known member
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- Giddings, Texas
These alternators are really easy to take apart. Start with a clean work surface, undo the 4 bolts and pull the halves away from each other. Undo the windings from the rear and then you have 4 parts that can be pulled out of the rear part of the case. Very simple and straight forward. The manual page Joe has for the background above shows how it goes back together.
The only close to hard part is pulling the brushes back and holding them back with a paper clip. Once you find the little hole the paper clip goes through, that part becomes easy as well.
If you don't trust your skill to do it, that is fine. However, this is a huge source of problems for these vehicles if a person were to go by the number of threads/post made just about daily concerning alternators. Why spend several hundred dollars to a business that is going to do in days or weeks what you could do yourself for a few dollars in less than an hour? Then you can use the money you save to buy more stuff, know how to check and fix the vehicle on the side of the road and could even help other people out by fixing theirs for a "nominal" fee.
The only close to hard part is pulling the brushes back and holding them back with a paper clip. Once you find the little hole the paper clip goes through, that part becomes easy as well.
If you don't trust your skill to do it, that is fine. However, this is a huge source of problems for these vehicles if a person were to go by the number of threads/post made just about daily concerning alternators. Why spend several hundred dollars to a business that is going to do in days or weeks what you could do yourself for a few dollars in less than an hour? Then you can use the money you save to buy more stuff, know how to check and fix the vehicle on the side of the road and could even help other people out by fixing theirs for a "nominal" fee.
jager07m1008
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- danville pa
once again I have to say thank you fo all the info i probably will be ripping it apart this long weekend to fix what i can before buying new thanks again.
Printout pages 4-3 thru 4-13 of the TM 9-2320-289-34 manual. It covers the disasembly and reasembly of the alternator. You may not need to remove all of the items. The main things you are looking for are items #18 and #22. Specificaly the "fiber" washers that separate the rectifier from the case.
If they are missing you can cut some out of a sheet of rubber.
Keep us posted.
If they are missing you can cut some out of a sheet of rubber.
Keep us posted.
jager07m1008
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- danville pa
ok now the weekend is long over and i fina;;y get around to the computer again. so the generator problem is fixed now my battery is not charging yes the back one. I have the correct volts coming out of the terminals . 27.?? so i thnk that is good but nothing going back to the battery i replaced the relay last week when i did all the other stuff so think that should be ok where should i start on this now . oh be the way I have to say thank you to everyone for all the info . thank you
So what did you do to fix the Gen? Give us more information. Lights on/off, which terminlas you checked the voltage on, etc.
Check the RED wire and BLUE fusable link coming from Gen2 positive terminal to the 24v Positive Terminal Block.
Check the RED wire and BLUE fusable link coming from Gen2 positive terminal to the 24v Positive Terminal Block.
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jager07m1008
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- danville pa
ok i fixed the generator. i replaced the light buld for the number 2 generator. it looked good but replaced it anyway still no charging. the fusable link is now replaced with just a piece of wire no link. i have no more sparking at the batteries the voltage was at the number 2 generator 27.76 the front battery is charing checked volts there back one was at 12.??. so i know that is not charging . when i repaired the generator i replaced the number 2 relay under dash. i have checked the fuse and replced it so could the diode be bad and how would i check it. thank you
1stSarge
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- Mount Vernon, Ohio
Unplug and remove the diode plug. With a digital multimeter, set it to the diode function. It usually has a schematic diagram of a diode on it. Connect the red (positive) lead of the meter to the side of the diode that has a band, and the black to the other end, you should get a reading, it should be somewhere around .4000 to .7000. Now reverse the leads, it should not have any reading at all, OL? (open line). What you are measuring is the voltage drop across the diode as it goes into forward bias. Usually around half a volt. (.5) When you reverse the leads, you are “reverse biasing” the diode and there should not be any current flowing at that time.
Its important that you use the diode function on a DMM, as it sends enough voltage to bias the diode. If you just use the “continuity check” (ohms) on a DMM, it may not send enough voltage to bias the diode and it will look like it is shorted both ways.
With an analog multimeter, they usually send enough voltage to bias, so with one of those, on the Ohm function at its highest setting, it should conduct one way, but not the other way.
Does the GEN2 light come on now when the key is on but vehicle not running?
Its important that you use the diode function on a DMM, as it sends enough voltage to bias the diode. If you just use the “continuity check” (ohms) on a DMM, it may not send enough voltage to bias the diode and it will look like it is shorted both ways.
With an analog multimeter, they usually send enough voltage to bias, so with one of those, on the Ohm function at its highest setting, it should conduct one way, but not the other way.
Does the GEN2 light come on now when the key is on but vehicle not running?