Charlie's Deuce Thread

[BKubu]

Charlie175, is the rope I see in the pic above the rubberized rope you are talking about? That rope does not look right. You can pull some excess rope out of the sides to tighten it up some.

 

[Charlie175]

That is just 550 paracord that I used until I get some rope. Even with the thicker rope it won't pull down the top.
I looked at the bows and all 3 seem to be the same shape.

 

[BKubu]

Make sure the top is slid down all the way into the side supports of the soft top assembly. It should definitely be low enough to allow the rubber rope to apply tension.

When did you go to Ranger School? My brother went through in the late 80s. I can ask him which class he was in if you were around there. Not trying to brag, but I am proud...he graduated first in his class as rated by his peers and instructors. However, he never told anyone. I went to his house about 12 years later and I saw a picture of him holding the company flag. I asked him how he was chosen to hold the flag (I actually offered a few oral insults first). That's the first time he ever told us how he was chosen.

 

[BKubu]

Also, he was Ranger-qualified...not assigned to a Ranger Battalion...I have heard there is a difference...not in training...but in the fact that he was not in a Ranger unit. He did wear the Ranger tab, and he was very proud of it...even more proud than graduating second in his class at Air Assault School at 38 years old. He was offered a Battalion command with the Engineers in the 10th Mountain Division, but he turned it down because he was getting out after 22 years in.

 

[SCSG-G4]

Also, he was Ranger-qualified...not assigned to a Ranger Battalion...I have heard there is a difference...not in training...but in the fact that he was not in a Ranger unit. He did wear the Ranger tab, and he was very proud of it...even more proud than graduating second in his class at Air Assault School at 38 years old. He was offered a Battalion command with the Engineers in the 10th Mountain Division, but he turned it down because he was getting out after 22 years in.

Ranger Qualified is the best path for promotion of Army Officers currently. Even if their primary specialty will never get them close to a battlefield. Just another ticket to punch.

 

[BKubu]

Ranger Qualified is the best path for promotion of Army Officers currently. Even if their primary specialty will never get them close to a battlefield. Just another ticket to punch.

Yes. When he thought he was in for life, he wanted to be a General. And, I believe he told me that there has not been a General who was not Ranger-qualified. I may have that slightly off...it has been a while since we talked about it. He could have said "4 star general." I can't remember.

I do recall him telling me a story about Air Assault School. When he came through his final run/forced march, you were supposed to be shout the Air Assault slogan (or possibly nothing at all). He shouted, "Rangers lead the way." The instructors were partially impressed, but made him do additional PT.

 

[BKubu]

Charlie175, I talked to my brother; he graduated Ranger School in 1987.

 

[Charlie175]

I enlisted in 1988, made it to 1st Batt in Jan of 89 and did my time there until I got out in '92. Lots of fun, always busy! Paying the price now after all these years as my body is telling me enough is enough..

 

[BKubu]

I enlisted in 1988, made it to 1st Batt in Jan of 89 and did my time there until I got out in '92. Lots of fun, always busy! Paying the price now after all these years as my body is telling me enough is enough..

Thank you for your service.

 

[Charlie175]

Your brother seems like a go getter for sure!

Update:
Replaced the Oil gauge and sender with a 120 mechanical gauge. Reads high 50-60 psi so I have peace of mind now.

Removed most of the lettering with a heat gun. Still have to do the pin stripping.

After a 10 mile road trip, the right rear brake is leaking, I am hoping it is the wheel cylinder vs the seals. Fluid seems like oil to me, but it's not heavy like the 80w would be. Need to check the axle vents also.

Lubed up the driver window mechanism so now the window does crank. Still gets off kilter at the top and I have to watch shutting the door not to have it hit the frame.

 

[Charlie175]

Serviced the passenger window today. Works much better.
Looked at the side rails and pried on them a bit to see if they will pop out of the stack holes. Seem rusted in so I sprayed some PB in. See if that works in a few days.

 

[Mullaney]

Serviced the passenger window today. Works much better.
Looked at the side rails and pried on them a bit to see if they will pop out of the stack holes. Seem rusted in so I sprayed some PB in. See if that works in a few days.

.
Long years ago, there was a guy in our truck shop (Ed) that would spend HOURS reworking the window regulators and tracks on Deuces and 5-Tons. There are some small "clips" that hold the glass frame to the window regulator. Some sort of spring steel... Before you try to go any further, you may want to get several of those. Two required on each window. If you can get your hands on them, remove the glass out of the top and then unbolt the regulator. That way you can fix what you can't really see.

Don't pry a lot on the tracks. They keep your windows snug in the track so they don't flop back and forth when you close the doors. Felt soaked in WD-40 or similar will help make the windows glide. It is a royal pain, but you can make these windows work like new with a lot of hand work...

EDIT: Added a picture of the Window Clips.
Thanks to frank8003 (see his post #81 in this thread for more detail)

 

[Charlie175]

.
Long years ago, there was a guy in our truck shop (Ed) that would spend HOURS reworking the window regulators and tracks on Deuces and 5-Tons. There are some small "clips" that hold the glass frame to the window regulator. Some sort of spring steel... Before you try to go any further, you may want to get several of those. Two required on each window. If you can get you hands on them, remove the glass out of the top and then unbolt the regulator. That way you can fix what you can't really see.

Don't pry a lot on the tracks. They keep your windows snug in the track so they don't flop back and forth when you close the doors. Felt soaked on WD-40 or similar will help make the windows glide. It is a royal pain, but you can make these windows work like new with a lot of hand work...

Thank you for that info! The driver side has me worried since the glass hits the frame if you don't hold it just right.

 

[Charlie175]

Monday update: (Work PC lets me to pictures better)

Power Washed and removed some of the graphics. Looks better clean

Still trying to figure out why the top doesn't match up to the hold downs.
The bows look right. I inserted a broom stick and it almost will go thru the hold down brackets.

 

[Charlie175]

This is the right rear wheel. It's been leaking a while from the looks of the hub. I have never done a dual wheel before, so I need to source a Budds socket and big boy breaker bar.

 

[Charlie175]

Any idea what was involved in this field fix?
This truck you can press the brake pedal and have brakes regardless if the air pressure is there. Also the pedal only moves an inch or so and you have brake pressure. My other Deuce the brakes only work when air is built up and you have to press a long ways for it to grab.

 

[Mullaney]

Monday update: (Work PC lets me to pictures better)

Power Washed and removed some of the graphics. Looks better clean

Still trying to figure out why the top doesn't match up to the hold downs.
The bows look right. I inserted a broom stick and it almost will go thru the hold down brackets.

.
I keep coming back to that picture of the ribs that hold your top up... I wonder if you have some sort of home-made ribs - OR - maybe you have some from a Deuce on a 5-Ton or the other way around. Just looking without any real way to judge depth, I swear mine have a more pronounced bend at the back of the truck.

There should be something like a washer welded to the rib that sets the depth in the windshield frame and also in the back "cross bar" behind your head when sitting in the seat.

Just trying to be helpful.
Hate to be guessing so much, but that top should be pulled tight across the ribs so it doesn't flap in the wind.

 

[Charlie175]

The front of the Bow rod does have a washer to keep it from going to far into the hole. The back I can't remember but I think it is the same

 

[Mullaney]

The front of the Bow rod does have a washer to keep it from going to far into the hole. The back I can't remember but I think it is the same

.
I have a set of ribs in my storage trailer - but they are for a 5-Ton - and I think they are different than a Deuce. Maybe just for S&G's I can measure mine so you can compare to yours. I should be able to do that later this afternoon.

 

[Charlie175]

Thank you! The canvas top that was on it had the grommet holes and they tied down fine to the rear anchors. This loop style top seems longer in the back.