Cheap Time Delay Module replacement

[cwajciec]

I know this is not OEM but after blowing a brand new TDM due to a solenoid issue I thought I would try something different. (I fixed the solenoid first) I used two 24v relays to supply a ground signal to the solenoid valve when either the temperature sensor or wot kick down sensor is energized. Diagram below. Seems to work ok and the only thing I am missing is the time delay function after wot activation but I think I can live with that for a $7 fix. During testing it seems to work ok but any thoughts on this? Like will it kick on and off too frequently with the temp sensor reading? It is too cold now to get the temp sensor to kick on and off.

 

[Pierreab]

I know this is not OEM but after blowing a brand new TDM due to a solenoid issue I thought I would try something different. (I fixed the solenoid first) I used two 24v relays to supply a ground signal to the solenoid valve when either the temperature sensor or wot kick down sensor is energized. Diagram below. Seems to work ok and the only thing I am missing is the time delay function after wot activation but I think I can live with that for a $7 fix. During testing it seems to work ok but any thoughts on this? Like will it kick on and off too frequently with the temp sensor reading? It is too cold now to get the temp sensor to kick on and off.

I just purchased a new TDM and don't want the same issue ! What solenoid issue did you have to fix ?

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[cwajciec]

My solenoid was internally shorted but I didn’t test for it. The troubleshooting TM tests the resistance in the 2 prong connector on the valve, mine was shorted and it blew TDM.
What I would do is supply 24v to the valve directly; I plugged the male end of the 2 wire valve plug into wire 583 in the 4 prong connector. Then I used a jumper wire to ground the other wire (93) to actuate the valve. If it works then you have a good valve. You also hear a very faint click when the solenoid opens.

 

[Pierreab]

My solenoid was internally shorted but I didn’t test for it. The troubleshooting TM tests the resistance in the 2 prong connector on the valve, mine was shorted and it blew TDM.
What I would do is supply 24v to the valve directly; I plugged the male end of the 2 wire valve plug into wire 583 in the 4 prong connector. Then I used a jumper wire to ground the other wire (93) to actuate the valve. If it works then you have a good valve. You also hear a very faint click when the solenoid opens.

Thanks I appreciate your help; I'll be sure to check mine out before plugging in that new TDM.

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[jackson76550]

I know this is not OEM but after blowing a brand new TDM due to a solenoid issue I thought I would try something different. (I fixed the solenoid first) I used two 24v relays to supply a ground signal to the solenoid valve when either the temperature sensor or wot kick down sensor is energized. Diagram below. Seems to work ok and the only thing I am missing is the time delay function after wot activation but I think I can live with that for a $7 fix. During testing it seems to work ok but any thoughts on this? Like will it kick on and off too frequently with the temp sensor reading? It is too cold now to get the temp sensor to kick on and off.

for zero dollars I just bypassed mine altogether. I lost the wot fan cutoff....but that didn't matter at all to me. I just used the power at the 4 pin connector to the solenoid, then added a ground to one side of the temp switch. the other side of the temp switch goes to the solenoid ground side.... I forget the numbers etc, but there was no cutting of the truck harness or running wires. fan cycled as it should based on temp. if you want to test how yours will work simply unplug and plug in the temp switch..... the fan should come on and off. assuming your temp switch is good, you should be fine

 

[cwajciec]

I thought about direct activation but I was worried if the temp sender or the WOT sensor would carry enough current for the solenoid. Seems it will. IF these relays crap out then this is what I'll do.

 

[Pierreab]

I thought about direct activation but I was worried if the temp sender or the WOT sensor would carry enough current for the solenoid. Seems it will. IF these relays crap out then this is what I'll do.

Well I tested my solenoid and it was shorted also, thanks for the heads up I would have toasted my new TDC also !!!

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[donquijote]

for zero dollars I just bypassed mine altogether. I lost the wot fan cutoff....but that didn't matter at all to me. I just used the power at the 4 pin connector to the solenoid, then added a ground to one side of the temp switch. the other side of the temp switch goes to the solenoid ground side....

Would you mind drawing out a schematic for that?