Check for loose bolts!!!

[JCKnife]

ALL NUTS AND BOLTS EVERYWHERE on these trucks need to be tightened at least once a year if it sees even moderate use, just sayin there are thirteen million threads on this, BUT is sure is time to bring it up again with the parade seasons and just get em out on the road time again, That Jack shaft is the most dangerous and has a history of ripping thru the floor if not tended to. good luck.......

Jack shaft? Is this a nickname for something else? Not a term I've heard before...

 

[Rustygears]

Why don't folks use locktite? I'm not suggesting use instead of lockwashers, but in combination with lockwashers and proper tightening. Blue locktite is designed for situations where you may want to easily remove a nut/bolt and there are other grades (red, green, etc.) for situations where more force is intended to remove a threaded assembly. This is a major component in civil/mil aviation where it is really impractical to periodically check/retorque bolts and loose fasteners could easily lead to a catastrophic failure.

Every item I have repaired on my A3 that doesn't have a selflocking nut gets reassembled with the correct grade of locktite based upon the torque used to tighten. Typically red or blue grade. The stuff is pretty cheap and a little goes a long way.

 

[oddshot]

Why don't folks use locktite? I'm not suggesting use instead of lockwashers, but in combination with lockwashers and proper tightening.

Blue locktite is designed for situations where you may want to easily remove a nut/bolt and there are other grades (red, green, etc.) for situations where more force is intended to remove a threaded assembly. This is a major component in civil/mil aviation where it is really impractical to periodically check/retorque bolts and loose fasteners could easily lead to a catastrophic failure.

Every item I have repaired on my A3 that doesn't have a selflocking nut gets reassembled with the correct grade of locktite based upon the torque used to tighten. Typically red or blue grade. The stuff is pretty cheap and a little goes a long way.

GREAT ADVICE.


I KNOW this is gonna start a fight ... but here goes:

Almost every source I have ever read indicates that lock washers, whether split, serrated or wave ... are ineffective at preventing fasteners from loosening.

Further, everything I read indicates that the best way to prevent fasteners from loosening is by applying the proper torque ... and using Nylock (or other) locking nuts, or a chemical lock (loctite) ... specific to the task at hand.


OK ... swing away ...

oddshot

 

[mikey]

this thread feels like a pop quiz lol... just read this tm a week ago...

torque front bolts to 85-90lb ft rears to 70-80 lb ft...

 

[Capriceii]

Got every thing tightened back up.. Had to replace the Axle gasket and refill pumpkin, but she is back to full operation.

 

[andystamey]

Sound and looks like a good place for some .032 safety wire and drilled head bolts (sorry to tell ya, I know its a bitch)

 

[bill2444]

Your dead on with the sugestion of loc-tite, I run a drilling rig and everything gets blue or red loc-tite, green is great for bearing races. Even though we still put on new split lock washers out of force of habit, they are really worthless.

 

[Rustygears]

Thanks!

I thought I was going to get an earful from that post.

BTW, all my little bottles of color all have NSNs. I really came to appreciate loctite when I worked for DOD on aircraft. I also learned that normal silicone sealer (aka RTV, like you buy at auto parts stores) is very corrosive to aluminium, etc. For aviation uses you must use special RTV that doesn't have acetic acid in it - that's what makes the vinegar smell in normal RTV.

 

[oddshot]

I thought I was going to get an earful from that post.

YEAH ... me too!

Its been almost a full day ...

You might have slipped one past them.


oddshot

 

[Gunfreak25]

I thought I would ressurect this thread as it is a GOOD one! I was checking all of the bolts on my M211 and most of them are mix matched. It is not running yet but this would definitely make some nasty vibrations due to the imbalance of nuts/bolts.

Definitely adding nuts and bolt torque to the list of once a month checks when it's running. And good idea on the lock washers, don't reuse! They are so cheap....

 

[goatijoe]

Jack shaft? Is this a nickname for something else? Not a term I've heard before...

That is what they call the drive shaft between the tranny and the t-case. Don't ask me why is called that I have herd the shaft between the tandems called a jack shaft, so my guess is if its between two things alike that what they call it if it goes between two different things like the t-case to the axle its just a drive shaft. Thats just my

The best thing for the drive shafts is to take out all the bolts and replace them with grade 8 and grade 8 "press nuts" not the ones with the teflon lock on the end. The teflon will start to degrade over time and will back off, where the press nuts are almost or are permanent.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Things that come loose

Ironic, spent the day on the 135 re-torquing everything and the Gunfreak bumps a nuts post. Thank you.

Need to agree....around 30% of existing and new 'fasteners' on the 135 did not meet spec..... as per TM. Things I tightened to spec. 50 miles ago came loose. Tighten your nuts.

It can be a quick check to lay underneath with wrench's and touch everything.
The torque wrench and the TM's are first thing everyone should have.

Steering wheel falls off......check your nuts.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-bmsXbJBdw[/media]

 

[m1010plowboy]

RE-torque

Giving this a bump after another day under the 1956 M135.

This time I dropped the bell housing cover for a clean up. Seeing a quart of oil in the bell housing cover probably means rear seal but I'm trying a pan re-torque first.

One bolt on the torque convertor to flywheel was visibly 'backed-off' so the torque wrench came out. Every bolt was loose.

I also went after 'gasket' bolts on the pan-covers. I understand that a gasket can 'split' if over-torqued so if you're tightening loose pans be cautious not to over-tighten.

Again, One loose bolt was obvious on the Trani to Transfer U-joint so lock washer and bolt was replaced.

CHECK YOUR NUTS, it's practically free.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Found a loose nut behind the wheel so it reminded me to bump this.

 

[swampzr2]

I have had several lug nuts get loose enough that I can spin them with my finger. I put a 1/2" impact and hammer them down real tight now until they stop turning... seems to have stopped that problem, but I still check them regularly.

 

[Diecorpse]

Sounds like a good preventive maintance program. When I worked at Menards we used a pm sheet to check evetything on the forklifts. I think making my own sheet to fill out at least once or twice a week, I believe it would help and you wouldn't forget about anything before it's to late. My bolt that holds the alt to the adjusting bracket came loose once, my belts came off and I chewd them up in the fan. At least I was close to home but made me realize I should check everything on a regular basis. Keeping records also help where there is a possible problem area or an area that needs attention more often.

 

[juanprado]

There is a quick visual for lug nuts by using wheel check flags:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ppidy-quot-M923-build/page2&highlight=zippidy

 

[m1010plowboy]

Bolt Torque Specs

This is my last and latest safety bump for 2014. I am not a mechanic so do my best to follow instructions in the manuals for both my work toys and personal toys. This makes my mechanical adventures an opportunity for an education that we can all benefit from, if I continue to live through them.

While inspecting belts I found the air compressor unit on an S185 skidsteer was a little sloppy, both at the belt and the mount. Instead of pulling the book and checking spec on the problem/solution, I grab a wee 3/8 ratchet and a wrench and go to work. It's just two bolts, how hard could it be.

The bracket and adjustment point is like most other Chev alternator or pump mounts with a main bolt on the bottom and an adjusting bolt on the top. While laying down with my face directed at the work area, I put a couple of pounds of pressure on the ratchet and suddenly hear the sound of high pressure air releasing. It was a refreshing scent of sweetness and the quick realization that this can't be good.



The housing cracked at the mount bolt and freon was my immediate new buddy. I'm not sure if the head-rush was adrenaline or freon but our 'emergency preparedness' procedure kicked in. I vacated to a fresh air source, found the msds for freon which was pulled prior to beginning the job and assessed the health of the patient. I called the bobcat dealership to confirm which freon I may have sucked on, was fortunate that it didn't penetrate my tank like shell and my pink lungs are fine. Another case of too fast strong too slow smart.

All the preparation of grabbing a fire extinguisher when we're working with flammables, knowing where a first aid kit is, knowing the hazards of the toxic chemicals we're exposed to and the simplest things like knowing the spec of a bolt before you torque it will be part of my continued New Years Resolution for 2015.

Check your specs before you check your nuts, Have the Happiest, Safest New Year and remember,

Keep your rubber on the bottom.

 

[rustystud]

This is my last and latest safety bump for 2014. I am not a mechanic so do my best to follow instructions in the manuals for both my work toys and personal toys. This makes my mechanical adventures an opportunity for an education that we can all benefit from, if I continue to live through them.

While inspecting belts I found the air compressor unit on an S185 skidsteer was a little sloppy, both at the belt and the mount. Instead of pulling the book and checking spec on the problem/solution, I grab a wee 3/8 ratchet and a wrench and go to work. It's just two bolts, how hard could it be.

The bracket and adjustment point is like most other Chev alternator or pump mounts with a main bolt on the bottom and an adjusting bolt on the top. While laying down with my face directed at the work area, I put a couple of pounds of pressure on the ratchet and suddenly hear the sound of high pressure air releasing. It was a refreshing scent of sweetness and the quick realization that this can't be good.

View attachment 534798View attachment 534799

The housing cracked at the mount bolt and freon was my immediate new buddy. I'm not sure if the head-rush was adrenaline or freon but our 'emergency preparedness' procedure kicked in. I vacated to a fresh air source, found the msds for freon which was pulled prior to beginning the job and assessed the health of the patient. I called the bobcat dealership to confirm which freon I may have sucked on, was fortunate that it didn't penetrate my tank like shell and my pink lungs are fine. Another case of too fast strong too slow smart.

All the preparation of grabbing a fire extinguisher when we're working with flammables, knowing where a first aid kit is, knowing the hazards of the toxic chemicals we're exposed to and the simplest things like knowing the spec of a bolt before you torque it will be part of my continued New Years Resolution for 2015.

Check your specs before you check your nuts, Have the Happiest, Safest New Year and remember,

Keep your rubber on the bottom.

View attachment 534796View attachment 534797

Just be thankful there was no open flames nearby ! Freon and flame makes phosgene's gas !!!