• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Circuit breaker Help

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Guys I have a LMHC (Light Material handling Crane) for an LMTV.
In the TM it shows it has a Circuit breaker that looks EXACTLY like
what I link to below, it is housed in a steel box that has a Slave
connector on it that plugs into the trucks 24V System.

This circuit breaker box is made from unobtainium and I need to
make something. So I looked up the part number from the TM for
JUST the circuit breaker and I got; QU0150 w/ an NSN= 5925-01-395-1496

So I punch in that data on Ebay and I get a hit but because I am totally lame w/
electricity I am questioning if this is the right part. Look at the Voltage,
(but it looks exact in the TM ! )

Silly forum will not allow this small photo to be inserted, please click HERE

breaker.jpg

Is this actually the correct part?

Is there a smaller better resettable circuit breaker I can use?

It is a small 24V Winch w/ a capacity of about 1 Ton.

TIA!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Those look like they would work well.
I wonder if a guy could not just mount that to the mast and
then run to the motor and feed it w/ slave cables.
THANX!

I assume you got a pallet of those almost a year ago or so from Ft Lewis yes?

Do you have any extra parts?

Have you found where to buy any parts?

I found a cannon connector PDF file that has the remote plug and the power plug info.
I read it and get frustrated and put it away every few weeks but I am sure all
the info is there to get the right plugs at the motor anyways. If you want it
let me know. It is a 24-9 plug for power and a 14S-1 plug for the remote,
just read inside them!

The ratcheting handle is available new for about $100 . I found the mfg.
My handle was bent but I massaged it back into like new condition.

I got a "few" prices from GROVE for a "few" parts and they are INSANELY
expensive, I mean ridiculously stupid over the top expensive.
I found that ratcheting handle for $100.00
and I think Grove wanted over $900 for it!

I found a 5/8" pin on ebay.

I have the TM for it w/ exploded parts views and part numbers.

The retainer clips and Anti-Squirrels Next Springs I found at Mcmaster.
If you need any McMaster part numbers let me know.

I found woodruff keys I found on McMaster, I have extras.

I pulled apart my rotator and rebuilt it. Gawd it was a trick to reassemble.
mine was blown apart and whoever worked on it could not figure out
the trick to reassemble it. I am sure I could do it again but it
would be hard to remember! Ha!

Did you just buy that lot out of Hayward?

I could use a motor cover, remote cable, power cable,
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,412
6,428
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
ARC186 links the correct type breaker. Don't use an AC breaker with DC. ARC186, keep me in mind if you want to part with your second crane, looks like a useful accy for my lmtv!
 

renodogs

New member
83
-2
0
Location
Reno, Nevada
NDT is correct. never use a breaker made for AC (Alternating Current) in a DC application. The engineering used (Ohm's and Kirchoff's Voltage Laws) are different between the two. When retrofitting a breaker to an application, an engineering rule of thumb is always to use a breaker that is twice the amount of nominal current draw of any circuit. That way you won't trip the breaker on start-up, but you'll get the protection you need in the event of an overload (short). Straight in-line fuses work the same way with one caveat: fast-blow -vs- slow blow. If you're working with motors, always use slow blow, electronic circuits, use fast-blow.

Do not use GFI breakers on A/C motor circuits. That is a waste of money and they always need replacing after the first few times of tripping. The heater element inside them degradates with each trip.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I "am" the luckiest guy today!

I found a COMPLETE winch assembly, the whole head, intact, barely
a dent anywhere, electrical caps included, even w/ there little chains
for $150 ! NOW I will get this breaker, I have been trying to nurse my
LMHC head assembly back into good working order, now it is regulated
as parts for this bad boy. It looks like it was never used!

lmhc-head-assembly.jpg
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
50A PDLA-50 28V Circuit Breaker, Automatic

About $30 on EBAY, exactly like THIS

Sure wish I could just find the stock box w/ slave outlet.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
326
83
Location
Livonia, MI
It sounds like you have what you need.

Circuit breakers and fuses protect wiring. That is their sole purpose. They do not protect the end device, as the device is usually the cause. The circuit breaker or fusing should coincide with the rating of the wiring of the device.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I'm in need of the control cable and also the cb for the power into the crane, does anyone have both cables?


Ummmm, your making those my friend. been there done that.
You can read about some of it in the Artisan's M916 thread.
But just in case anyone finds some, remember I asked for them first! [thumbzup]

You can find a similar winch controller on EBAY, then you have to
find the correct ITT CANNON Bayonet connector for it then you
have to figure out how that goes to together and make it up.

Then you need the connectors MOTOR TO CB BOX and a CB and a BOX
and a Slave connector, then make it up.

The above was an absolute TON of work. It took me months to find
it all and then make it. If you want to sell your parts PM me. A thinking
man will just buy an off the shelf crane and call it good, I don't think
so well sumtimes...:-(
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I have the power cable connectors if anyone needs.
It is the large 2 Pin connector needed to attach to the
motor itself.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks