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CJ10a Flightline Tug --> 4wd Pickup Truck

jamesfrom180

Active member
532
71
28
Location
Gainesville/Florida
Those photos have helped in the past...feel like alittle kid sometimes leaving the red rider ads out...I forgot are you going to run a bench seat or buckets in the truck?:funny:
 

gavan

Member
79
0
6
Location
Houston, TX
Factory CJ heater, never had a problem with one. I have room for CJ air conditioning, but I do not know how long I will be in Texas, and it would be kind of a pain to add. When I am working outside I usually do not run the AC anyways, and I drive home and to work early in the morning when it is still somewhat cool. 24 hour shifts.

Basically I am keeping the AC options open for now.
 

gavan

Member
79
0
6
Location
Houston, TX
Nope. Width is as stock as it was when it came out of the factory in 1966. It lines up nicely with the TJ flares and I like the look of the wide bed, I am still going for a little of the "baby bobber" look, and the M35 bed sticks way out of the side of the cab.

It would be very easy to narrow if you wanted to, and I think a 101a3 bed narrowed with the wider flares would look kinda cool.
 

gavan

Member
79
0
6
Location
Houston, TX
I mocked up the body with the top and doors to make sure my other windshield would fit and make sure the seats would work. Everything looks pretty good. It looks like it is high up front, but I am thinking 1k of Cummins and transmission/transfercase will settle the springs a little.

It is big...

Almost too big, if there is such a thing. Got some engine parts in. Things are getting closer and closer.
 

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DrJekl

Member
268
1
18
Location
Clarksville, TN
I want to do mine in OD green and use markings like they used to put on the Jeeps in the early 70s.

I just bought another one of these and I am going to keep it stock, swap the rear axle and springs and move the axle back. Slap on a short bed like you have here. I have a M101 trailer bed I bought to use on my current project but went the way of the YJ tub rear for a bed. I figure tooling around town it will do okay. That SD33 would do much better with a manual trans like the Scouts had in them.
 

gavan

Member
79
0
6
Location
Houston, TX
I am going mine in OD green, no markings. The wifey shot it down! Oh well. She puts up with a lot.

I would run 4.88s at least and keep the tire size 35 or less for running around town with the stock engine. 100 HP is not much to work with! I think it would be much better with a manual too, but you are limited to the IH T19 which is just funky with a huge bellhousing and mile long input shaft and no overdrive or a really expensive modification to an already expensive NV4500.

Some size reference pics: This is my Excursion with F-250 springs and slightly larger tires. It is not small, and the 10 is bigger! Oh well. I think it will settle a bit with weight.
 

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jamesfrom180

Active member
532
71
28
Location
Gainesville/Florida
I like the size...the comparison drives it home though this is not a jeep your going to muscle out of the mud. I would go OD and only black stencils for lettering. I've gotten rid of the bubba tiger camo job on my jeep, but just did not want to go period with the yellow markings it would take. I also prefer the black on green. I feel unless you are duplicating a true recreation of a documented MV not much use in painting all that markings on it.

Simple rule if its Modded keep is simple. [thumbzup] Every new pic makes me want to build my own version of this.
 

gavan

Member
79
0
6
Location
Houston, TX
It takes a lot of time and effort to make it "simple", thats for sure. A lot of people do not understand that. It takes time to make it look like it always existed, not like you cooked it up in your driveway. I spent a lot of time on my CJ7 and it takes people 5-10 minutes to figure out they are looking at a full tube frame buggy made to look like a Jeep than just another Jeep with a 4 inch lift and 35s. I want people, even military type people, to stare at this thing and try and remember it's M-number because it looks like something that could have been in the armed forces, not look at it like a slapped together pile.

That being said, with a 15000 pound winch, 500 foot pounds of torque and at least 1 locker it better muscle itself out of the mud!!!
 

DrJekl

Member
268
1
18
Location
Clarksville, TN
I thought they used a T18. I need to start looking but those IHC scouts are probably pretty rare, more so than the CJ10, with the SD33T. With scrap being so high every rotting hulk on the planet it getting crushed. The adapter for the CJ10 is for a MOPAR bell. I wonder if that opens up any possibilities. The flywheel under the TF727 only has a small surface area as I recall so that thing may need to be swapped as well.
 

jamesfrom180

Active member
532
71
28
Location
Gainesville/Florida
DrJekl I would think that its by far more economical to swap power plant and driveline. I would concur with the price of scrap making everything hard to come by. There is a 12V cummins that came avalible here in my neck of the woods for $1200 but let me tell you that is the first I've seen in a couple years and one of only a few engines to come up at all.

Gavan I think you have done a good enough job already to make many people scratch their heads and wonder what that was. By simple I was think stenciling CJ10 on the hood and maybe a black star on the door.
 

Bolkbich

Member
306
8
18
Location
MAHWAH, NJ
my cj10a is a blast in the woods. i wish it was a little cooler inside. does anybody have any contacts for a sliding rear window ? ive had no luck.
 

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gavan

Member
79
0
6
Location
Houston, TX
I asked jscherb about rear windows, he seems to know more about oddball Jeep hard tops than anyone else I have ever seen. He had no clue about where to get replacements. I am putting a pretty beefy headache rack in front of my bed just because the rear window is so hard to find. I think the only option is other CJ10 owners. There might be an aftermarket one you can cut to fit?
 
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