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Clutch Job!

Jakob

Member
722
5
18
Location
Louisville, KY
I used an engine hoist and some chain. It was the perfect length. I just lowered the transmission straight down and set it on the ground with some 4x4's underneath it. I'm just going to rough up the pressure plate and be done with that. I'm stuck at the flywheel though.

I'm replacing the rear main like I've said, but I looked at the tranny as well. I thought it was leaking, but it's just soaked in motor oil from the rear main. Once I wiped off the tranny, it didn't leak anywhere and I tried tilting it around. I will be replacing the fluids while everything is down and out though. The t-case and trans are getting new oil and the engine is getting an oil change.
 

poppop

Well-known member
2,316
39
48
Location
Brooklet, Ga
You might want to reconsider the pressure plate. If it has slipped enough to ruin the flywheel then it has created a lot of heat. Heat removes the tension from the springs in the pressure plate. It may look good, but when reinstalled does not have enough pressure to firmly hold the clutch to the flywheel. It may slip under load and very soon you are back where you are now. I do a lot of clutches on my farm tractors and trucks and always replace the pressure plate or have it rebuilt at a clutch shop. Saving a little money now could cost you big in the future.
 

Jakob

Member
722
5
18
Location
Louisville, KY
I didn't really think of it that way. I'm going to call a local clutch place about a flywheel. I'll talk to them about the pressure plate as well. Maybe I can have it rebuilt locally. If it's cheaper than buying a new one that is. Otherwise, I'll just get a new PP as well from Saturn.
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
1,265
633
113
Location
Mesa, AZ
The army itself used a bar from the front to rear of the cab, a comalong and some type of ring adopter on top of trans to tie into. Works good in trhge field where you don't have a smooth floor for a trans jack. Transfer case swaps are not for the faint of heart; weighs more thjan trans. Shops made uo a cradle to match contour of t-case and on m35 it comes out on a subframe.
 

ohnuts

Member
156
1
16
Location
indianapolis in
CM has a really great little ratcheting chain hoist that lifts five hundred pounds and fits in a shoe box chain and all, it's maybe 15lbs. It's called the toolbox buddy CM602. Been selling them for years at work and have not had one warranty.
 

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Jakob

Member
722
5
18
Location
Louisville, KY
I might pick up one of those in the future, but in the meantime, my engine hoist worked great. Just so long as I can work on the truck on a paved surface, lol.
 

Bigred77

Member
84
1
8
Location
Clermont, KY
I have a small chain hoist like that one, if you ever need to borrow it in the future. I use it to drag cars on my trailer. I have a winch, but havent installed it yet.
 

Gamagoat1

Active member
746
44
28
Location
Kiowa, Colorado
Hope my experience helps here. Engine hoist through the pass door works great, done it many times. Factory tranny hoist that sits on the floor is one cool tool and on paper works great. In the truck is sucks. Can't crank it as the adjustment nut is under the dash. Cable also needs to be wound opposite what it is but the drum design won't allow it. 3rd way is with the 4x4 across the back of the cab through the windshield. I use a decent quiality com-a-long and it works great. Listen to this helpful little tidbit. Attach your com-a-along via a chain around the 4x4, heres the secret. Put the chain through a piece of steel pipe that is about the width of the 4x4. With the steel pipe on top of the 4x4, it is much easier to move the tranny forward and backward on the 4x4.
If you turn the factory winch around putting the crank point towards the rear of the cab , like the manual shows, instead of under the dash, the little factory winch works great.
 
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farmer1982

New member
19
0
0
Location
Martel Ohio
Just bend the the retainer locks back an remover the bolts an use a small prybar between the bellhousing an the retainer theres a space in there u can pry against an pop it off.
 

Jakob

Member
722
5
18
Location
Louisville, KY
Just bend the the retainer locks back an remover the bolts an use a small prybar between the bellhousing an the retainer theres a space in there u can pry against an pop it off.
That's what I thought, but I didn't want to go prying on it if that wasn't the right way. I have it all unbolted, the actual removal had me held up. Well, now bad weather has me stalled. I have a good paved driveway, but nothing over top of the truck.
 

farmer1982

New member
19
0
0
Location
Martel Ohio
Yup that sucks when ya ain't got a place to run it in an work on them . I don't know if that the proper way to get it off but it worked for me , just be carefull you don't pry to hard an crack it cuz it is an aluiminum go easy an it will come off for ya .
 

Gamagoat1

Active member
746
44
28
Location
Kiowa, Colorado
Here's a picture of how the Army wanted to do the trans drop. This is the winch designed for the job. My friend is in the process of doing the job with my winch. We'll keep ya all posted. It fits and works like a charm. Also, a picture that is in the manual TM9 2320-211-35.
 
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FMJ

In Memorial
In Memorial
4,210
37
0
Location
Las Cruces, NM
If you have a flat surface, this works REALLY well, fully adjustable... did the whole install under the truck by myself. Harbor Freight. Take the brackets I made to hold up the transfercase off, and it works for the tranny also.
 

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