Clutch pedal adjustment

[EastRidge]

I have done a search, and found some real close responses to my question.

My clutch pedal is well proud of the brake pedal, I'm not the tallest at 6' 2", but I really have to strain to plant my hoof on that thing. Once there, I'm good until I stop.

I laid underneath and stared, as well exercised my spacial ability to see actually how would be the best, and correct manner to address this issue.

I have about 2+ inches of free play.

It appears that I have about 1/2" of thread left on the bottom adjustment set screw, which appears to bevthe direction I need to go.......BUT it also appears that the floor pan is the actual stop for this pedal travel, and the spring would keep drawing it back.....

I also see, that both ends of the "rod" have compression type clamps......so can I loosen at the bell housing side (spring off) and reset a point of beginning? OR is the floor pan just needing a retrofitted stop, as long as the correct free play is still there.

It appears that by changing the set screw end, or moving the bell housing end would just be chasing my tail.

Would really appreciate some guidance on making the pedal align with the brake pedal, at a minimum.

Thank you.

 

[NDT]

Last I checked, the underneath of the floorboard is what both pedal arms slam up against, so not sure it’s possible to shim either pedal further down.

 

[G744]

There are rubber seals that travel with the pedals up against the floorboard, and they subtract a bit of travel.

They are a bitch to install, most soak them in carb cleaner a bit so they will stretch over the oval part without tearing.

 

[ODAddict]

I've heard that heating the draft pads ("rubber seals") in water will make them pliable enough to fit over the foot pedals. I've also heard that KY jelly or a similar water-based lubricant works well.

Also, there should be a u-shaped stop that screws to the floorboard to limit the clutch throw. If it's not there, you should see the two screw holes where it should be.

Neither if these things have much to do with free play which should be less than 2 inches. The fully-disengaged height kinda "is what it is." Have you gotten into the manuals for book procedures?

 

[EastRidge]

I've heard that heating the draft pads ("rubber seals") in water will make them pliable enough to fit over the foot pedals. I've also heard that KY jelly or a similar water-based lubricant works well.

Also, there should be a u-shaped stop that screws to the floorboard to limit the clutch throw. If it's not there, you should see the two screw holes where it should be.

Neither if these things have much to do with free play which should be less than 2 inches. The fully-disengaged height kinda "is what it is." Have you gotten into the manuals for book procedures?

No, I haven't gotten into the manuals. The free play was in INCHES.
The PO had already installed a 3/4" thick chunk or hard rubber below the floor deck to prematurely stop the pedal, or give it a soft landing.

I had so.e 5/8" square stock, so I simply "added to it".....
Now I don't have to contort near as much to depress the clutch. Logger soled work boots being g the worst.

I still have probably almost 2" of free travel.

The adjustment screws on the base of the pedal were already at 60/40.

Thanks!!