Cold starting a m1009 cranks a bit before start.

[Btempy]

When i bought the truck, i had and issue with fuel draining back to the tank.
Replaced lift pump with an AC delco w/ check valve, and that fixed that problem with drain back but truck takes about 10 seconds of cranking when cold before it fires up. When warm it starts up instantly.
Also replaced glow plugs with ac delco 60g, cucvelectric glow plug card, new glow plug solenoid, fuel pressure switch, water in fuel sensor, injection pump check valve.
Still nothing changed, Also when i turn the key the solenoid clicks on but doesnt cycle on and off, ive always had the cucv electric card so i dont know if thats the reason or not.
When starting cold it does give out a puff of smoke but thats it.
Cant for the life of me figuire this out.

-thinking possibly batteries dont have enough cold cranking amps, or possibly put in a gear reduction starter.
Before i go and replace anything else id like to get some input, hoping you guys can help me out
thanks.

 

[Westech]

Could be injection pump stating to die.

 

[Nuke113]

I have a 84 M1028 that does the exact same thing, cold start takes 5-6 secs of cranking followed by puff of smoke and instant start when warm. Truck is still fairly new to me so still working through it needs new batts and glow plugs but have done the doghead mod and cleaned the electrics. Been thinking it might be the fuel pressure switch in the filter slowly letting air into the line while it sits but that's just a guess.

 

[Btempy]

I have a 84 M1028 that does the exact same thing, cold start takes 5-6 secs of cranking followed by puff of smoke and instant start when warm. Truck is still fairly new to me so still working through it needs new batts and glow plugs but have done the doghead mod and cleaned the electrics. Been thinking it might be the fuel pressure switch in the filter slowly letting air into the line while it sits but that's just a guess.

i thought the same thing with mine, replaced it with a new one. And no change. also changed out the water in fuel sensor. and changed the filter.

One thing i did notice is that the valley under the intake is a little wet, might pull the intake and check the lines under there, theres 1 going to a hard line and the other to Return? side of the injection pump.

Hate to just keep replacing things with no result. Reason for this post.

 

[cpf240]

I would expect that either the rubber fuel line in the valley is leaking, or, more likely, the throttle shaft seals.

In any case, it sounds like air is getting into the system while it sits for a while. You could replace the short section of fuel hose that comes off the return check valve with clear fuel line, and look for bubbles when it is having a hard time starting.

 

[Nuke113]

i thought the same thing with mine, replaced it with a new one. And no change. also changed out the water in fuel sensor. and changed the filter.

One thing i did notice is that the valley under the intake is a little wet, might pull the intake and check the lines under there, theres 1 going to a hard line and the other to Return? side of the injection pump.

Hate to just keep replacing things with no result. Reason for this post.

I'll have to look at mine tomorrow and see if there is any diesel under there mabey try the clear tube thing too think I have some laying around somewhere. Been working on a set of gauges that we just finished so might as well make that the next project on the list. Partially been holding off on this due to fear of the 84 injection pump curse lol

 

[Btempy]

I would expect that either the rubber fuel line in the valley is leaking, or, more likely, the throttle shaft seals.

In any case, it sounds like air is getting into the system while it sits for a while. You could replace the short section of fuel hose that comes off the return check valve with clear fuel line, and look for bubbles when it is having a hard time starting.

forgot to add it also looks to be wet near what I assume is throttle shaft, Where do I source a new one?, or atleast the o ring that it's prone to leaking

 

[scottladdy]

forgot to add it also looks to be wet near what I assume is throttle shaft, Where do I source a new one?, or atleast the o ring that it's prone to leaking

If it was my truck, I'd replace the IP, especially if it is the original.

Lot's of good places out there to get one from. I've been running a rebuild from Badger Diesel for 10 months and the truck is running great. I also replaced the injectors with their rebuilds and used their return line which just presses on, no micro clamps to deal with.

 

[hoplite666]

Ive had my m1009 for a week and half now. Just starting doing the same thing. More or less. Once its been run it will start back up no problem. Let it sit for 8-10 hours and it will fire up with barely any idle then stall. Wait a second then crank at it again for about 10 seconds and it will start up fine. After searching through the forums I thought maybe it could be the fuel pressure switch (as mentioned above). Went ahead and ordered up the parts to do the spin on filter mod. We will see how it goes. Ill be checking under the hood here soon at the areas you guys pointed out for possible leaks. Please post an update if/when you resolve your issue. id like to hear what culprit ends up being.

 

[dmilkman589]

Where is the pressure switch? And what could it possibly do on a fully mechanical system. Mine cranks for a long time when its warm out or cold. doesn't matter. What could that be? When the engine is warm, it does start up much quicker.

 

[Anubis8472]

Ive had my m1009 for a week and half now. Just starting doing the same thing. More or less. Once its been run it will start back up no problem. Let it sit for 8-10 hours and it will fire up with barely any idle then stall. Wait a second then crank at it again for about 10 seconds and it will start up fine. After searching through the forums I thought maybe it could be the fuel pressure switch (as mentioned above). Went ahead and ordered up the parts to do the spin on filter mod. We will see how it goes. Ill be checking under the hood here soon at the areas you guys pointed out for possible leaks. Please post an update if/when you resolve your issue. id like to hear what culprit ends up being.

Mine's doing the same thing.
Only after sitting the same 8-10 hours like you describe.
It doesn't do it if the fuel tank is full.

She'll fire right up, then after a few seconds die. Then won't refire until after a good deal of cranking.
It's obviously a fuel issue. Check valve/draining back to tank.
It also wants to 'surge' for a bit after, likely still working out air in the lines.
I'll be looking into it further this weekend, right now everything under the hood is soaked in anti-freeze. Caught a rock through the radiator last week.

The pressure switch referenced above is just a sensor for the diagnostic connection. The issue with it from what I gather, is the seal around it. It's not that the pressure switch is bad and causing the problem, but rather that the seal around the switch may be bad.

 

[rsh4364]

My 85 1009 has been doing this same thing for about six months now,I have manual glows so I spin motor for about 5-6 seconds to prime inj.pump,then glow for 10-15 seconds and she starts right up,but now its getting cold here and getting worse so after Christmas gonna do new IP and injectors from Badger! I see 3 different styles,Short body fine thread,long body fine thread and long body coarse thread.How do I determine which ones I need?

 

[trukhead]

My 85 1009 has been doing this same thing for about six months now,I have manual glows so I spin motor for about 5-6 seconds to prime inj.pump,then glow for 10-15 seconds and she starts right up,but now its getting cold here and getting worse so after Christmas gonna do new IP and injectors from Badger! I see 3 different styles,Short body fine thread,long body fine thread and long body coarse thread.How do I determine which ones I need?

The short body fine thread is for a late 6.2, NA 6.5 or a turbo 6.5 depending on what the pop pressure is and or the body number
The long body fine thread is for the mid production 6.2.
The long body course thread is the early production 6.2.

Easiest way to tell what you have if you don't have numbers is look for an injector that is not working well and pull it.
To find that you might try squeezing the injector line between your index finger and thumb, if you don't feel much its passing fuel, if it thuds it's plugged or otherwise not passing fuel. On a 220 Cummins the pushrod was usually bent.
Or you can use a long flat breaker bar with a plastic handle and listen to the injectors. It's a bonus if one of the injectors leaks and you get to listen to it for it's characteristics at idle.
Or use a infared spot gun and temp the exhaust manifold on the exhaust port to see which cylinder is not firing or running cold.
Do these tests on cold engines at idle see what you come up with.
WARNING: WATCH FOR SPINNING TURNING OBJECTS WITH SHARP EDGES THAT WILL EFFECT DAMAGE ON SOFT BODY PARTS!!!