bomar76
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Cold weather start...no problem!
- Thread starter bomar76
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Armada
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I've got a Herc engine in mine that takes alot of cranking to start in cold temps. I now use the ether injection, and it only needs 1 quick burst and starts instantly, and will stay running with the pedal to the floor. Once the rpm's start to pick up, I can back off the pedal and it will idle on its own. It will not harm your engine when used properly. Saves on the starter too.
I don't have any experience with the flame heater. My other duece has a White engine and the flame heater, however that truck starts well in cold so I've never had to use the flame heater.
It was mentioned on this forum that hard starting in cold is a sign of a potential problem with the engine/starting system. Though I don't know what that prob could be if that is the case.
I don't have any experience with the flame heater. My other duece has a White engine and the flame heater, however that truck starts well in cold so I've never had to use the flame heater.
It was mentioned on this forum that hard starting in cold is a sign of a potential problem with the engine/starting system. Though I don't know what that prob could be if that is the case.
Pappa-G
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That ether injection is the way to go! It saves on batteries, starters and flooding. It amazes me why anyone would subject thier starting system to all the wear and tare that you get cold starting an engine when just a small shot of ether will have you up and running rikky-tik. 
~ Pappa-G
Now that I'm done shaking it, you may now let the hornets out.
~ Pappa-GNow that I'm done shaking it, you may now let the hornets out.
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".....the Austrians did a great job on this design."
Not sure where the Austrians come into the picture. Part of the design of the multifuel engine is built on license from an MAN design, thats Germany, Southern Germany, but not Austria...
Not sure where the Austrians come into the picture. Part of the design of the multifuel engine is built on license from an MAN design, thats Germany, Southern Germany, but not Austria...
I have the Ether injection on mine and have not yet used it. The truck starts great in cold weather without it so far. 10 degrees no problem starts right up. My friend has a 2003 powerstroke and can't get it to start without ether and asked if I could pull start him someday soon. My friend says it must have a fuel heater or something on it to help. I've looked at my truck no flame heater for sure, can't find a fuel heater and have never hit the switch on the ether injection. what gives am i missing a heater of some kind or is the truck that cool.
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FLame heaters were removed when the ether start kits were installed. No need for both and of someone accidantaly figures out a way to use both, a large explosion will occur followed by broken parts and maybe injuries.
bomar76
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[quot:
bomar76
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[quote=!!!!!
marksgarage2
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My deuce starts great in cold weather with the flameheater. I have the herc engine, rebuilt depot in 87. I did have problems starting when I first got the truck. It turned out to be the batterys. They tested good, but would not start the truck when it was cold out. Most all engines need maximum cranking rpm to start when its cold.
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It's 11F here this morning. Since you guys are talking cold weather starts, I thought I 'd give it go and it started up after 10 seconds of cranking. No starting aids. Thanks Gary (polverone) for the battery heater! A fast cranking engine does it.
It's running right now and I'll let it run at 1,000 rpm or so for the next 1/2 hour. Don't need to go anywhere, just for fun. Love that MultiFuel engine!
The engine oil is Texaco 30W "Ursa".
I have one little item to complete on the dual tank job, the fuel lines containing biodiesel must be warmed up before I can switch over in really cold weather. The heater hoses must be re-routed to run along them to the job. May wrap some insulation around them too.
It's running right now and I'll let it run at 1,000 rpm or so for the next 1/2 hour. Don't need to go anywhere, just for fun. Love that MultiFuel engine!
The engine oil is Texaco 30W "Ursa".
I have one little item to complete on the dual tank job, the fuel lines containing biodiesel must be warmed up before I can switch over in really cold weather. The heater hoses must be re-routed to run along them to the job. May wrap some insulation around them too.
bomar76
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Battery heater = Cold Weather Starting Aidcranetruck said:
Ugg013
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Guys:
Yesterday AM it was a balmy -5 with a windchill of -20. Today we have a heatwave, it's currently 6 with a high of 20. Today, I have to use the Frog and I don't anticipate any starting issues. One quick shot of either in the breather and it cranks right up. It would really have been nice if I was able to mount the heater kit (hint hint
), or even the grille cover, but I guess long johns are the uniform of the day.
Later
Ugg
Yesterday AM it was a balmy -5 with a windchill of -20. Today we have a heatwave, it's currently 6 with a high of 20. Today, I have to use the Frog and I don't anticipate any starting issues. One quick shot of either in the breather and it cranks right up. It would really have been nice if I was able to mount the heater kit (hint hint
), or even the grille cover, but I guess long johns are the uniform of the day.Later
Ugg
bomar76
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This
mangus580
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Wind chill can have some effect on a vehicle if its blowing through the radiator.... 
otherwise, your radiator wouldnt be of any use
otherwise, your radiator wouldnt be of any use
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Ugg, I think you'll find that the heater will not be needed after the engine warms up. The only issue may be defrosting the windshield, but then if you are not driving too fast, just flip it open and you'll be wearing a permanent smile before too long.
Ugg013
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Bjorn:
I'll ah, pass on the windshield thang. I've already broken part of my beard off in the past due to excessive cold. In hopes of keeping windshield frost down, ski masks and scarfs will also be worn. 
Later
Ugg
I'll ah, pass on the windshield thang. I've already broken part of my beard off in the past due to excessive cold.
In hopes of keeping windshield frost down, ski masks and scarfs will also be worn. Later
Ugg
SasquatchSanta
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I pulled the flameheater of my Deuce and threw it away --- installed an ether shot system complete with a lockout switch using a a keyed ingition switch. The last thing you want is someone accidentally pushing the button --- especially on a hot day.
In the winter I either keep my truck plugged in (freeze plug block heater) or plug it in a few hours before starting it. JWith just a "whiff" of ether it comes to life even on a 35 below zero morning.
The problem I have is that I sometimes have to give it a whiff of ether on warm mornings --- like 60 degrees F. It will start without the ether but it takes some cranking. After I once get it started in the morning I can shut it down for several hours and it will start right back up --- no problem but after it has set overnight it's hard to start.
I don't "think" I've got a compression problem because the engine runs good and seems to have good power though I admit, I don't have anything to compare it with.
I'm beginning to think I may have an air leak in a fuel line somewhere between the tank pump and injector pump. I'm considering installing a one-way check valve before the pump.
As a closing comment ... even though the multi-fuel engines are relatively easy to start in cold weather it's hard on them when they are started without first being plugged in.
Getting and keeping the engine up to proper operating temp in the winter is probably the biggest challenge of all.
As soon as winter sets in and I can do some tests I hope to have some positive posts on this problem.
In the winter I either keep my truck plugged in (freeze plug block heater) or plug it in a few hours before starting it. JWith just a "whiff" of ether it comes to life even on a 35 below zero morning.
The problem I have is that I sometimes have to give it a whiff of ether on warm mornings --- like 60 degrees F. It will start without the ether but it takes some cranking. After I once get it started in the morning I can shut it down for several hours and it will start right back up --- no problem but after it has set overnight it's hard to start.
I don't "think" I've got a compression problem because the engine runs good and seems to have good power though I admit, I don't have anything to compare it with.
I'm beginning to think I may have an air leak in a fuel line somewhere between the tank pump and injector pump. I'm considering installing a one-way check valve before the pump.
As a closing comment ... even though the multi-fuel engines are relatively easy to start in cold weather it's hard on them when they are started without first being plugged in.
Getting and keeping the engine up to proper operating temp in the winter is probably the biggest challenge of all.
As soon as winter sets in and I can do some tests I hope to have some positive posts on this problem.
motorolanut
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Biggest thing I ran into was the batteries turning the engine over slowly .
Otherwise started fire with engine heater
Otherwise started fire with engine heater
Interesting thing I've noticed with my Deuce - I haven't had it very long, so I haven't had to try any real cold weather starts. But - it used to be pretty touchy to start, even in relatively warm "short sleeve shirt" weather. It does have the ether start system but the ether cannister is empty so I haven't tried using that either. SOP USED to be pull out the hand throttle 5 clicks, floor the accelerator pedal and crank. It started like the old Pratt-Whitney radial aircraft engines - First one cylinder would fire, then another, and so on until all six were firing. Then I'd have to play with the accelerator 5-10 seconds to keep it running between 800-1000 rpm until it finally settled down and started running smoothly. If I let off on the accelerator too soon it would die on me. Once I got it running OK with my foot off the accelerator, I still had to keep the hand throttle pulled out for 30-60 seconds or it would die again. after a minute or so, I could let off on the hand throttle and it would run OK.
A short while ago, I decide to turn up my fuel delivery adjustment, as the power seemed a little off and I just like to f**k with things in general. Only turned it up one flat on the nut, 1/6 turn, since I don't have a pyrometer yet (working on that) and didn't want to melt any engine parts. Noticed a significant increase in power - better throttle response, held speeds on steep hills much better. But I was amazed at the improvement in starting. Still floor the accelerator pedal and crank, but it fires off right away. Still have to play with the throttle a couple of seconds to keep it running between 800-1000 rpm until it settles down, but then I can take my foot off the accelerator and it will run smooth and steady at 800 rpm, no hand throttle needed. Can't wait to get my pyrometer installed, I bet another 1/6 turn on the fuel adjustment and it will start and run smoothly with no help at all from the accelerator pedal!
My best guess on this phenomenum - while the fuel delivery adjustment obviously sets the MAXIMUM fuel delivery rate, it also sets a MINIMUM fuel delivery rate, independent of the idle speed adjustment, untill the engine is up to speed and the fuel governor is able to take over control of the fuel delivery.
A short while ago, I decide to turn up my fuel delivery adjustment, as the power seemed a little off and I just like to f**k with things in general. Only turned it up one flat on the nut, 1/6 turn, since I don't have a pyrometer yet (working on that) and didn't want to melt any engine parts. Noticed a significant increase in power - better throttle response, held speeds on steep hills much better. But I was amazed at the improvement in starting. Still floor the accelerator pedal and crank, but it fires off right away. Still have to play with the throttle a couple of seconds to keep it running between 800-1000 rpm until it settles down, but then I can take my foot off the accelerator and it will run smooth and steady at 800 rpm, no hand throttle needed. Can't wait to get my pyrometer installed, I bet another 1/6 turn on the fuel adjustment and it will start and run smoothly with no help at all from the accelerator pedal!
My best guess on this phenomenum - while the fuel delivery adjustment obviously sets the MAXIMUM fuel delivery rate, it also sets a MINIMUM fuel delivery rate, independent of the idle speed adjustment, untill the engine is up to speed and the fuel governor is able to take over control of the fuel delivery.