Coldest starting temp.

[Cleveland Iron]

Wind chill is the effect that moving air has on objects warmer than the temperature of the air. That means a warm object will cool down to the real air temperature much faster. It feels that much cooler. Actually humidity affects the chill factor too...

Just remember, if air movement didn't assist in heat loss, using fans to help keep hot radiators and electronics cool would not work.


My deuce started at nine degrees... And I forgot to use the manifold heater.

 

[prairie]

My M1008 stated this morning at -4 after 3 cycles of the glow plugs and about 25-30 seconds of cranking.

It has a block heater, but it wasn't parked near an outlet. Usually have the block heater on a timer to come on 2-4 hours, depending on expected temps, ahead of when needed.

Sounds like there is a lot of confusion on wind chill!! An object at zero degrees at zero mph wind is still zero degrees at 100 mph wind speed. It is just that an object will cool down to air temperature faster when exposed to wind. Wind chill temperatures are a "feel", that as stated by others, can be effected by humidity. I guess one our area TV weathermen did a little presentation on this a while back, and he was amazed at how many people can't seem to understand "feels like" temperatures versus actual temperatures. We did an experiment on this when I was in Jr. High School 35 years ago, which clearly demonstrated it.

 

[DXTAC]

-8 degrees. Two cycles of the GP's and a mighty puff of smoke and Mongo fired up. Didn't warm up really the entire ride home.

Thx,

 

[sandcobra164]

Mine started and stalled for my wife at 0 Celsius the other day. She didn't apply throttle while starting and it took her a few times to get it re-fired. Haven't had an issue since I explained the cold start procedure of flooring it until it's running. The "Fast Idle" does not have enough power to set it without someone pushing the pedal down.

 

[Trailhead 4x4]

Gotta laugh every time somebody mentions wind chill, it has no bearing on the actual temperature of cold machinery. If your truck has been sitting out all night in 15 degree temp, it will still be 15 degrees no matter how impressive your wind chill numbers might be. BTW, 15 is the coldest I've started my 1028, one glow plug cycle and it rattled to life. I kinda felt bad doing that to it, the protest was heart wrenching.

 

[blueblaze]

-42C or -43.6F. my M1009 started right up. unplugged. two cycles of glow plugs. 60G's work the best. and thats with 0-30 synthetic motor oil and it started just fine with just the high idle activated. I even made a video of it lol

 

[ssdvc]

During the cold snap about a week or two ago here in CT t got down to around zero. Truck had sat for two weeks prior, with no use. Went out, cycled the GP's and she fired right up, no plug-in or nothin. Blew some grey/blueish smoke for about 10 seconds (maybe less) and was loud as **** for at another 15 seconds. After that she settled down and ran well. She is a good truck.

 

[Anubis8472]

So far this year -10 has been the coldest.
She sat for three days prior, and I don't use any type of heater.
Manual GP, 10 seconds on - 10 seconds off - 10 seconds on, and she fired up just fine.
Let her warm up for a good 10-15 minutes and was still getting ice cold air through the defroster.
After another five minutes I was realy starting to think bad thoughts ... that's when I realised I had the controls set to cold air.

 

[rivcrazy2000]

These trucks don't really get very warm in the really cold temperatures. Pretty much anything below 20 degrees and you will not be able to roast yourself out. Maybe a single cab but anything bigger than that and there's just too much space to heat and too little insulation to keep it in. When I drive to Fairbanks and it's really cold out I will stop at places to let the interior warm up every 100 miles or so. Mine leaks a lot and it will start to get unbearably cold inside but if you let it sit for a half hour without cold air being forced in every crook and cranny it will get warm again for a little while. This summer I am going to try to fix as many of those problems as I can, it would make it a lot nicer to drive that's for sure.

 

[Anubis8472]

Indeed, I need to replace my passenger door weather seal. I've been getting complaints of a draft.

I notice mine doesn't get very warm if I leave it sit. Warms up best a little above idle if I get out and let it idle again it will cool down some, I think that's common with old diesels though.
She puts out just enough heat to be comfortable going down the freeway, just have to keep your coat on.

It does have an odd characteristic some of the time when starting in cold weather after she's sat for a while. Seems to be random maybe 1 out of 4 starts from dead cold.
It won't start on the first crank (mind you I usually won't crank a starter for more than 5 seconds or so), but fires right up on the second crank even without any additional GP cycle.
I'm thinking the cold is letting some air into the fuel delivery somewhere, no seal is forever.

 

[ssdvc]

These trucks don't really get very warm in the really cold temperatures. Pretty much anything below 20 degrees and you will not be able to roast yourself out. Maybe a single cab but anything bigger than that and there's just too much space to heat and too little insulation to keep it in. When I drive to Fairbanks and it's really cold out I will stop at places to let the interior warm up every 100 miles or so. Mine leaks a lot and it will start to get unbearably cold inside but if you let it sit for a half hour without cold air being forced in every crook and cranny it will get warm again for a little while. This summer I am going to try to fix as many of those problems as I can, it would make it a lot nicer to drive that's for sure.

Some simple pipe insulation shoved in-between the grill opening is a good fix for that. Simple, fast and easily removable should it get warmer out. Works like a charm and you can hardly notice it.

 

[prairie]

These trucks don't really get very warm in the really cold temperatures. Pretty much anything below 20 degrees and you will not be able to roast yourself out. Maybe a single cab but anything bigger than that and there's just too much space to heat and too little insulation to keep it in. When I drive to Fairbanks and it's really cold out I will stop at places to let the interior warm up every 100 miles or so. Mine leaks a lot and it will start to get unbearably cold inside but if you let it sit for a half hour without cold air being forced in every crook and cranny it will get warm again for a little while. This summer I am going to try to fix as many of those problems as I can, it would make it a lot nicer to drive that's for sure.

Try this http://www.jatonkam35s.com/cucvwinterfront.htm or a couple pieces of card board, shoved up from underneath, between the radiator and grille.
The cardboard works, but the winter front looks nice, is more convenient, and easily adjusted for varying temps.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Starts well at -10 off 7 working plugs and no block heater. Next winter I'm going to have a block heater ready to go just in case. For heat in cold temps I just slide a piece of cardboard between the grille and guard. Otherwise I suffer from frozen toes.