New Hampshire M37 Guy
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Nice, wheres the best place to get a new head gasket since i'll be playing the same game this weekend!
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Common Parts needed and repair info
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nhjohnny1
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- Contoocook, NH
I think I got mine at Sanels
JGBallew
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- Paducah, Kentucky
Seconding MM.
Midwest is my "go-to" for M37 stuff, their carb kits are especially well done.
New Hampshire M37 Guy
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I had a few minutes today so i was able to pop the head off and i found only 1 stuck valve in her. It only took about 30 minutes, a half of a can of PB blaster, a hammer, and a chunk of wood to get it moving freely again. I'll be putting her back together Friday and hopefully putting a few more miles on her this weekend around my house. Thanks for the help once again guys, i'm sure i'll be asking more questions shortly.
In the mean time here are a few pictures of today's job.
In the mean time here are a few pictures of today's job.
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TGP (IL)
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Nice job.
Make sure you use a quality High Temp thread sealer on the bolts.
I like Permatex .
Tom
Make sure you use a quality High Temp thread sealer on the bolts.
I like Permatex .
Tom
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Bob Stahl is a good troop. Best of luck.
New Hampshire M37 Guy
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I put in the new head gasket with Permatex on the bolts Friday night after work and then a fresh oil change 1st thing today. She took a little while to fire up (the can of PB blaster down the valves did not help) she smoked for about 10 minutes then shes running like a champ and sounds good.
I drove it around for 30-45 minutes and i think shes pretty solid. I will be registering her this week, but my stock tires are cracked to ****... We have a state inspection in NH so what are my tire options at this point? I dont want to drop a lot of cash on new rims/tires since i'm not sure what i'm going to be doing with my current breaks (believe it or not they work after sitting for 10+ years)
After the drive I pulled the factory gas tank to see how bad it is (last owner said it was rusted bad) The bed floor was already toasted so i ground off the bolts and cut it up a little bit to get the tank out. I did not see a lot of rust inside of it, i think a few bottles of Coke will clean it up and then i'll install a inline fuel filter. Should i get some of that inside the gas tank paint/sealant to coat it just in case? I will be checking for leaks when i add the coke but as of now it looks solid.
Come spring after i do a little body work i will be installing hard wood strips on the bed floor with metal strips to hold it down and cover the gaps.
I drove it around for 30-45 minutes and i think shes pretty solid. I will be registering her this week, but my stock tires are cracked to ****... We have a state inspection in NH so what are my tire options at this point? I dont want to drop a lot of cash on new rims/tires since i'm not sure what i'm going to be doing with my current breaks (believe it or not they work after sitting for 10+ years)
After the drive I pulled the factory gas tank to see how bad it is (last owner said it was rusted bad) The bed floor was already toasted so i ground off the bolts and cut it up a little bit to get the tank out. I did not see a lot of rust inside of it, i think a few bottles of Coke will clean it up and then i'll install a inline fuel filter. Should i get some of that inside the gas tank paint/sealant to coat it just in case? I will be checking for leaks when i add the coke but as of now it looks solid.
Come spring after i do a little body work i will be installing hard wood strips on the bed floor with metal strips to hold it down and cover the gaps.
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JGBallew
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- Paducah, Kentucky
You can mount almost any 16" truck tire on there, but you have to make sure the rims are clean and smooth. Use "radial" tubes (not expecting you'll find anything else) and new rim flaps.
One of the nicest M37's I ever dealt with had 11.00X16 Michelins , and other than low speed manuvering, the taller tires made it handle like a "big Jeep". Braking was actually a bit better than with the 9.00X16's.
One of the nicest M37's I ever dealt with had 11.00X16 Michelins , and other than low speed manuvering, the taller tires made it handle like a "big Jeep". Braking was actually a bit better than with the 9.00X16's.
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FYI: Midwest military sells a replacement bed floor.
New Hampshire M37 Guy
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Thanks for the suggestion of the floor. I just found the bed floor on line but i've always wanted a hardwood bed floor. I figure the metal strips will be the same color of the truck. Not this color but something on the lines of this maybe. I'm going to keep the rear bench seat and wood bed rails the same hard wood with the same color bolts. It should look slick when finished.
New Hampshire M37 Guy
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Was it something like this?
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nhjohnny1
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- Contoocook, NH
I registered mine antique and no inspection, must be kept "parade ready" but I live in a small town and have no problems
New Hampshire M37 Guy
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I should be all set here as well since the inspection is because of the state not town by town. Thanks for the info i'll be registering it first thing monday.
New Hampshire M37 Guy
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I'm looking for some more info once again...
I've been searching for the history of my rig but every time i enter the serial # or other #'s they come back as invalid
On the tag on the glove box
FSN 2320-542-4636
Contract # DAAE07-67-cs149
Serial # 8022683 T-245
Date 1-68
The block of the motor has T245a-226020 stamped on it
The doors have US Navy 94-80073
I've been searching for the history of my rig but every time i enter the serial # or other #'s they come back as invalid
On the tag on the glove box
FSN 2320-542-4636
Contract # DAAE07-67-cs149
Serial # 8022683 T-245
Date 1-68
The block of the motor has T245a-226020 stamped on it
The doors have US Navy 94-80073
New Hampshire M37 Guy
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Update
The frame is stamped with the #2668022683
I threw the # in http://www.g741.org and came up with this so far
Serial Number 2668022683
Year 1968
Make Dodge
Model M37B1
Engine 230 Flathead Six
Wheelbase 112
Rating 3/4 Ton
Engineering Code
Plant Warren, Michigan
Build Number 759
Can anyone help out with the # on the door or any other info?
The frame is stamped with the #2668022683
I threw the # in http://www.g741.org and came up with this so far
Serial Number 2668022683
Year 1968
Make Dodge
Model M37B1
Engine 230 Flathead Six
Wheelbase 112
Rating 3/4 Ton
Engineering Code
Plant Warren, Michigan
Build Number 759
Can anyone help out with the # on the door or any other info?